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alman72
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
T4 syndrome is a broken cam boss due to overtightening of the strainer nut.

If you can turn it through 4 full crank rotations and there's no holes in the case with a rod sticking out it's gotta be woth $200 in parts.

to turn thru 4 crank revs, is that just 4 spins total? (hey, its the stupid question thread)
btw, thank you William, and thank you BD. BD been a very valuable source of info in my time on the Samba, and we cant lose you too.
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williamM
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
williamM wrote:
If it has all the FI and not the "T-4 syndrome" It might be a deal- I just bought an used "engine kit" (no tin) at "Buses by the bridge" for $200 but had the wrong rods and bad cam-- the plus was it had a pair of AMC heads in need of service.

So thats right in the ball park.


cant really tell from the pic.....at least I cant. I will ask (btw, T4 syndrome?)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





Only because -- we just changed out lifters and heater boxes did I notice the new to me big hole on the firewall by cylinder #3-- what is supposed to fill that??
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 3:20 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
T4 syndrome is a broken cam boss due to overtightening of the strainer nut.

If you can turn it through 4 full crank rotations and there's no holes in the case with a rod sticking out it's gotta be woth $200 in parts.

to turn thru 4 crank revs, is that just 4 spins total? (hey, its the stupid question thread)
btw, thank you William, and thank you BD. BD been a very valuable source of info in my time on the Samba, and we cant lose you too.


Two complete spins of the crankshaft (720°) is all you need to do to verify that there is nothing blocking the movement of the pistons and crank. Doing four complete turns is certainly not going to hurt anything either.
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:37 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
You need manifolds,that fit your carb and engine,if you don't have them,get them,call CP and tell them what you.re doing,they should help you,there are other sources also aircooled.net as good reviews and products.


Thanks lil-junx. Looks like the kit for the dellortos is discontinued so I'm just going to order a complete package, either the Solex from aircooled.net or Empi's from jbugs.com.

Also, the steering column on my '73 is locked, replacement key didn't work and there appears to be a Hot Start button attached to the column. What part of the ignition unlocks the steering?

When I picked up my '79 from the previous mechanic he brought out a really pretty steering column complete with a nice steering wheel and with a key. He said it was for the '73 bus. The new mechanic says it isn't correct for the '73 so can I drill out the lock cylinder from the '73 then take the lock cylinder from the newer column and put it in the '73? If so, will this take care of the locked steering and the hot start issue?

I hope this makes sense.

Thank you,

Leslie
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

There is some info in the tech tips,parts ID and electric,that's all I got,
Goodluck Nelson
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LazyLightning75
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Changed the oil in the bus this morning and took it for a spin - she was running like a top. Came home and put a new air filter in and replaced the vent lines in the engine compartment (including the one behind the spare tire well).

I'm using the Gates Barricade 5/16" FI line with the ABA claps for the vent lines. I didn't love the fit on the one behind the spare and it feels like it's kinked. Tried to start the bus after the air filter and vent line replacement, and she doesn't want to stay running unless I rev the crap out of it. Could that kink in the vent line be my problem? I'm hoping that I didn't inadvertently knock something loose.

I can pull it tomorrow and see if I can get the kink out, but thought I'd check-in to see if you have any thoughts.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 7:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

LazyLightning75 wrote:
Changed the oil in the bus this morning and took it for a spin - she was running like a top. Came home and put a new air filter in and replaced the vent lines in the engine compartment (including the one behind the spare tire well).

I'm using the Gates Barricade 5/16" FI line with the ABA claps for the vent lines. I didn't love the fit on the one behind the spare and it feels like it's kinked. Tried to start the bus after the air filter and vent line replacement, and she doesn't want to stay running unless I rev the crap out of it. Could that kink in the vent line be my problem? I'm hoping that I didn't inadvertently knock something loose.

I can pull it tomorrow and see if I can get the kink out, but thought I'd check-in to see if you have any thoughts.


You probably knocked a vacuum hose off somewhere, go back and take a critical look at the hoses on the engine.
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williamM
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:39 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

That vent line kink shouldn't cause running problems as it is vapor recovery and unless a huge load of recovered vapor suddenly let go- you are more than likely knocked the ratty fabric covered vacuum lines off. as wildthing mentioned.

We just changed out a cali muffler system for a federal and forgot to button up the egr valve- Idled great, but really stumbled when the egr valve opened.

So lots of crazy stuff happens to me every time I look down the rabbit hole. Just have to be persistent.
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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 6:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Engine pull and tear down means stupid questions for me. I was at the fan removal juncture and was (am) having difficulty getting the fan off. I removed the three center bolts and it still would not budge. Maybe I'm slow, but I could not find a thread discussing this. So, I removed the fan hub retaining bolt in the center. Did I "screw" up? Should I put it back in before pulling the fan...?? Should I replace the sealing ring and small crankshaft oil seal while in here? Thanks in advance.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
Engine pull and tear down means stupid questions for me. I was at the fan removal juncture and was (am) having difficulty getting the fan off. I removed the three center bolts and it still would not budge. Maybe I'm slow, but I could not find a thread discussing this. So, I removed the fan hub retaining bolt in the center. Did I "screw" up? Should I put it back in before pulling the fan...?? Should I replace the sealing ring and small crankshaft oil seal while in here? Thanks in advance.

I'm speculating you don't have Bentley with all those photos of the operation?

Once the 3 bolts are out the fan should pull off the hub, it's likely glued on with corrosion, some PB blaster down in the middle beside where the center bolt goes won't hurt overnight, then warm the fan with a propane torch and wiggle wiggle wiggle side to side while pulling.

And if you have never replaced the seal or O ring you'll want to do that, pulling the hub off the crank requires some special mojo so study up on that before diving in.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Reporting back. Thanks for the responses - Wildthings and williamM. You guys nailed it. I fixed the kinked vent hose, just needed to shorten it a bit to improve the fit. Didn't make any difference. The engine still would not run. Looked around some more and found not one, but three disconnected hoses. Geeze, I was even trying to be careful while playing contortionist and changing the vent hoses. I methodically replaced each one and tried to start the bus each time.

There are three pictures below. The last one was the culprit. Bus fired up fine and idled nicely. However, the culprit hose connects to a rubber 90 degree elbow that is split. I can get a clamp on it, but I would like to replace it. Any thoughts on where I can find one?

Lastly, all the vacuum hoses look ancient. I read that they can be expensive and hard to find. Any suggestions on where I can get replacements? Thanks for all the help!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Below is the culprit hose with cracked rubber elbow.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Jim Bear wrote:
[...]was (am) having difficulty getting the fan off. I removed the three center bolts and it still would not budge. Maybe I'm slow,[...]

I'm speculating you don't have Bentley with all those photos of the operation?

Once the 3 bolts are out the fan should pull off the hub, it's likely glued on with corrosion, some PB blaster down in the middle beside where the center bolt goes won't hurt overnight, then warm the fan with a propane torch and wiggle wiggle wiggle side to side while pulling.

And if you have never replaced the seal or O ring you'll want to do that, pulling the hub off the crank requires some special mojo so study up on that before diving in.


Thanks b'daddy. I do have the Bentley. Removing the fan hub retaining bolt was impulsive and happened prior to reviewing the Bentley, again. The Bentley also makes the fan removal sound easier than I am experiencing. The fan wiggles and I have wiggled it. It still won't come off. I have rapped the outer edge of the fan with a rubber mallet, no luck. I have not done the pry trick with the screwdriver on the right grill post seen in the Bug Me video #8 at 15:15, and I am reluctant to. I will hit the center with PB Blaster before bed and go at it again tomorrow. Thanks again.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If you square up the fan and support one side of the fan and smack the other, It will usually stop wobbling and pop off. Don't take the pulley off the fan with out marking it- they have a special relationship.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Don't take the pulley off the fan even if you do mark it, the bolt holes are oversize for a reason and you'll have a very hard time regaining the same alignment and balance.

If it was brutally stuck I'd explore internal jaw pullers like you use for extracting bearings, but rocking and wiggling with some lube in the mix will likely do it.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:10 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Don't take the pulley off the fan even if you do mark it, the bolt holes are oversize for a reason and you'll have a very hard time regaining the same alignment and balance.

If it was brutally stuck I'd explore internal jaw pullers like you use for extracting bearings, but rocking and wiggling with some lube in the mix will likely do it.


I got the fan off--two screwdrivers, one on each side, pried against the cage posts, easy off really. busdaddy, when you are talking about the pulley, you mean the pulley attached to the fan, correct? Thanks...
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jim Bear wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Don't take the pulley off the fan even if you do mark it, the bolt holes are oversize for a reason and you'll have a very hard time regaining the same alignment and balance.

If it was brutally stuck I'd explore internal jaw pullers like you use for extracting bearings, but rocking and wiggling with some lube in the mix will likely do it.


I got the fan off--two screwdrivers, one on each side, pried against the cage posts, easy off really. busdaddy, when you are talking about the pulley, you mean the pulley attached to the fan, correct? Thanks...


Don't take the fan-pulley assembly apart, some people just feel the need to clean the metal of the fan till it shines and take it apart to do so. What they end up with is a fan that is out of balance.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 9:41 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Again, thanks Wildthings.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:22 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Jim Bear wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Don't take the pulley off the fan even if you do mark it, the bolt holes are oversize for a reason and you'll have a very hard time regaining the same alignment and balance.

If it was brutally stuck I'd explore internal jaw pullers like you use for extracting bearings, but rocking and wiggling with some lube in the mix will likely do it.


I got the fan off--two screwdrivers, one on each side, pried against the cage posts, easy off really. busdaddy, when you are talking about the pulley, you mean the pulley attached to the fan, correct? Thanks...


Don't take the fan-pulley assembly apart, some people just feel the need to clean the metal of the fan till it shines and take it apart to do so. What they end up with is a fan that is out of balance.



Not just the balance-- but your timing mark for the engine is stamped into the pulley, and It will go back together any which way. but only one is right
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 5:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
but rocking and wiggling with some lube in the mix will likely do it.


Classic.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 2:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

With this pulley/fan assembly in mind I took some pics of the correct orientation
for the pulley/fan.

They do have a roll pin in the hub (which is probably why your was so hard to get apart- with rust and all)--

That pin can help get things back together correctly. As you can see the pin and the ridge to the left almost point to the TDC cut in the pulley for a T4 motor- if you have the 912 shroud you'll see those marks also to the left of the roll pin.[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]
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