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Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!!
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splitpartsunlimited
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 2:11 am    Post subject: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" ! , then , replaced the wire , but , when trying to install it back , i feel like a "spring" feeling on the wire after it gets 7 or 8 inches inside the cable conduit , and the wire stops at that point .....rounded the end of the wire , applied grease ....but no way , the wire doesn't go beyond this point....any clue ?

I thought about removing the stick shift assy to see if i have some access , but i felt i had to ask to the guys who knows , before doing something stupid .....

Thank you so much !!

Ricardo
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Terry Gaudet Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 2:55 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Ricardo,

Have you tried turning/twisting the cable as you feed it into the tube? Sometimes it's a narrow spot in the tube that will cause this. Another option is to get a plumber's snake which is a long flat spring steel tool. You can use this to clean out the tube. There may be some residue grease or rust that is causing the blockage.

Best of luck.

Terry
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Mr. OGPaint
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

I've run into this many times with buses and beetle on the various cables. This problem is usually the worst on throttle cables and heater cables as they are very small guage and smooth so they will operate in a nearly completely blocked conduit but make replacement difficult. Try using stainless safety wire or a similar small guage wire and plunging it in and probing for a path thru. I cut a sharp angled end on the wire so it can pierce thru obstructions. Try clearing the conduit from the rear of the car also.

Once you find a path thru, place some small kinks on the length of wire that is sticking out the other end, that way it will pull more of the dirt and grease out on the return trip. Continue this process adding more aggressive kinks until the conduit feels cleared. Generally I complete the process with bailing wire thru the conduit as it is larger guage. Sometimes I blow air in the conduit after it is cleared and piles of debris have comes out, (don't do this from the rear of the car if your interior is nice!)

I had to do this on my heater cable installation just a few days ago. Cars from dusty areas or that sat for many years can be terrible, I have spent an entire day on this task on cars in the past.
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Isbrand52
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 10:20 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Put a broken clutch cable into a drill and runn it as you go thru to cloosen the clog
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Isbrand52 wrote:
Put a broken clutch cable into a drill and runn it as you go thru to cloosen the clog
Well, that's a ridiculous suggestion Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Jacks wrote:
Isbrand52 wrote:
Put a broken clutch cable into a drill and runn it as you go thru to cloosen the clog
Well, that's a ridiculous suggestion Rolling Eyes


I can't tell if you are saying that is obvious or if you are against this suggestion so I will say this worked great to clear out the heater cable tubes in my Bus.

I blew it out with air as well, as mentioned above.
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Isbrand52
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

It did work for me. That's why I suggested it.
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" !
Simply pulling the knob with the 1mm thick wire attached all the way out will result in the outer cable housing to remain in the chassis conduit tube. A clutch cable is 4 or 5mm thick. Cool
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Mr. OGPaint
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Jacks wrote:
splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" !
Simply pulling the knob with the 1mm thick wire attached all the way out will result in the outer cable housing to remain in the chassis conduit tube. A clutch cable is 4 or 5mm thick. Cool
Neither of my splits have the outer cable sheath housing thru the chassis on the choke like a an oval window or a bus would have. Just the thin choke cable riding inside the permanent metal conduit of the chassis

Unrelated, but no Bowden tubes either
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

Jacks wrote:
splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" !
Simply pulling the knob with the 1mm thick wire attached all the way out will result in the outer cable housing to remain in the chassis conduit tube. A clutch cable is 4 or 5mm thick. Cool



Splits don't have the outter sheath. The Zwitter does because it is basically an oval with a split rear window. Nice try though... Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:19 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

I recently cleared the fuel line on my split that I believe hat started to become clogged back in the late 60's before it was parked in '62. I suspect this because of the huge electric fuel pump that was mounted on the firewall under the fuel tank...

I bought some stranded aircraft type cable at the hardware store and used my spot welder to weld the ends of the strands together. I cut the end off with a bolt cutter so it was tidy on the end. I then probed in the line to figure out how far it was to the blockage. It was about 2/3 of the way to the back so I shot some pb blaster in the tube and chucked the other end of the cable in my cordless drill and slowly spun it in the direction of the twist of the cable and slowly fed it into the tube. I started with a smaller diameter cable and then bought the next size up which was about one size down from what a clutch cable is. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. It took me a while but I eventually was able to break through.

In the past I have also used a electricians fish tape with the end cut off with a bolt cutter and then cut a little longer than where the obstruction is and done the same with with the solvent and drill. This works well on tubes that little if any a bend. If there are any large bends then the aircraft cable is the best choice.
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nlorntson Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" ! , then , replaced the wire , but , when trying to install it back , i feel like a "spring" feeling on the wire after it gets 7 or 8 inches inside the cable conduit , and the wire stops at that point .....rounded the end of the wire , applied grease ....but no way , the wire doesn't go beyond this point....any clue ?

I thought about removing the stick shift assy to see if i have some access , but i felt i had to ask to the guys who knows , before doing something stupid .....

Thank you so much !!

Ricardo


Can you feed it in the other way and get it through? If so, perhaps pulling a chunk of heavy fishing line back through would be enough to provide a "guide" to pull it back through the right way.

If you can get it through backwards, use some thin electrical tape to tape the fishing line to the cable and pull it back out while the fishing line feeds in the front. Pull it out far enough to untape the cable and grab the fishing line.

Then go back to the front and attach the cable to the fishing line with a long but thin piece of electrical tape and push the cable while gently puling the fishing line from the back.
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rod_vw
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

splitjunkie wrote:
Jacks wrote:
splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" !
Simply pulling the knob with the 1mm thick wire attached all the way out will result in the outer cable housing to remain in the chassis conduit tube. A clutch cable is 4 or 5mm thick. Cool



Splits don't have the outter sheath. The Zwitter does because it is basically an oval with a split rear window. Nice try though... Rolling Eyes


Splits do have an outer at least over the gearbox or maybe just through the fan housing, see item 25...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The illustration is taken from a 1946 parts book.

I've just restored my choke cable using a section from a Bay Window heater cable inner and a short piece of the outer from the same source as shown through the fan housing. The Bay heater cable inner is plastic coated so runs easier in the conduit. The knob had already been repaired with the cable soldered in so removal and replacement with the new one was simple.
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: Split beetle choke cable RE installation, HELP !!! Reply with quote

rod_vw wrote:
splitjunkie wrote:
Jacks wrote:
splitpartsunlimited wrote:
Hi Pals !!!

After almost 2 years with the engine out of my split due to a complete engine overhaul , i have found the time to put it back on the car ......removed the choke cable because the wire was too short , removal was easy , just pull the "L" knob and "voila" !
Simply pulling the knob with the 1mm thick wire attached all the way out will result in the outer cable housing to remain in the chassis conduit tube. A clutch cable is 4 or 5mm thick. Cool



Splits don't have the outter sheath. The Zwitter does because it is basically an oval with a split rear window. Nice try though... Rolling Eyes


Splits do have an outer at least over the gearbox or maybe just through the fan housing, see item 25...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The illustration is taken from a 1946 parts book.

I've just restored my choke cable using a section from a Bay Window heater cable inner and a short piece of the outer from the same source as shown through the fan housing. The Bay heater cable inner is plastic coated so runs easier in the conduit. The knob had already been repaired with the cable soldered in so removal and replacement with the new one was simple.


That is correct but there is no inner sheath that runs in the steel tube that runs from the knob to the back of the pan. That is what we are talking about.
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