Replace Pertronix with points & condenser

[zohami]

Hi gang,

A little help please? This Thing is new to me 2 weeks ago. Was running fine, then left me stranded roadside until my lovely bride brought a chain and towed me home.

Fuel is fresh, and fuel pump spurts like an artery when tested.
Spark is good at #4 cylinder.
Popped the dizzy cap and was surprised to find Pertronix hardware inside. I've heard they will either work perfectly, or not at all, and sometimes go bad without warning, so I thought I'd just replace it with points and condenser.

Got the parts from my FLAPS, then realized the adjuster screw for the points would be needed. Now I'm wondering if this is even the right distributor for the car?

Here are pics of what I see. Your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

_________________
Sold the Doka, now it's a '74 Thing

[scottyrocks]

Is there a model number on it? If you don't see it, it's probably on the back (front of car) side. I used a small mirror in a small needle nosed vice grips to see it.

[Glenn]

Most likely the points are 01 011 and the cap is 03 010.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[cecil]

did you take off the plastic ring that goes over the shaft?
_________________
I may not be that funny or athletic or good looking or smart or talented....I forgot where I was going with this
I have this wierd desease called "must tear everything up and put it back together when there's nothing wrong with it...Itus."

[zohami]

Yes, I removed the plastic ring before the pics.
I have the new points and condenser, but not the screw to set/adjust the gap.
_________________
Sold the Doka, now it's a '74 Thing

[Al Capulco]

Where do those burnt wires near the fuel filter go? That just does not look good.

[Glenn]

[zohami]

Frank, good question, and I agree not good. Need to check the Gallery for pics of stock engines to see how it should look, and where things are supposed to go.Going up they go into a 3 wire loom that I need to follow further. Going down, one goes to the coil. Need to unbolt it from the fan housing and see which side it's going to, later after work today.

Thanks Glenn, I'll see if Ace has it today.
_________________
Sold the Doka, now it's a '74 Thing

[citroen]

You also need to get that gas line out of the fan housing before it rubes a hole in the line

[citroen]

maybe these pictures will help this is out of my early 73 Thing that I was the third owner maybe Glenn can confirm

[Wildthings]

I can't confirm from your picture if the hose is hooked up to the vacuum advance nipple. A hose does appear to be hooked up to the vacuum retard nipple, but the retard can is likely bad and leaking which will throw your timing way off. Best to time your engine at 28-30° BTDC at 3500 rpms to avoid this problem verses timing it by the book.

It is best to have your fuel filter before the pump to protect the pump from debris, to remove the weight of the filter from in inlet nipple on the carb, and to get the filter and it connections away from the distributor and wiring. For myself I have my filter on the inlet line to the pump and hang it from the unused spare air filter bracket to the left of the engine, others insist that the filter should not be in the engine compartment at all.

[Glenn]

The black plastic nipple is advance and the silver metal nipple is retard.

Distributor: VW 043-905-205C, 0231 176 028
Points: 01 011
Condensor: 02 074
Rotor: 04 033
Cap: 03 010
Vacuum Can: 07 114
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[zohami]

Wow, you guys are a wealth of help and information. THANKS!
So I got the screw for the points, but I got the wrong condenser with a round bushing for the square hole in the side of the dizzy, so getting the right condenser today.

Took apart the taped up melted wires. One was the battery connection to the coil, so I spliced in a new unmelted white wire to temporarily replace it until I can replace the entire length. Another went to the oil pressure sender, and was not melted. The third one is white with a green stripe and was just taped into the wrap with no connection. Anyone know where that wire is supposed to go?

_________________
Sold the Doka, now it's a '74 Thing

[citroen]

That wire is not used it went to the test socket on the upper right used by the dealer in the 70 's

[mondshine]

Zo...
I noticed a couple of things in your photo.
Unless you are seriously compelled to keep it, I would remove the fuel filter from the engine compartment. The problem with having a fuel filter installed like that is the possibility of that filter jiggling around enough to pull the brass fuel inlet out of the carburetor top, causing a catastrophic fire.

Your rubber fuel line looks a little aged, and should probably be replaced. I prefer the German cloth braided hose (5mm) but some prefer the modern rubber compounds which might be more compatible with modern fuels (if you can get it in metric size (5mm is the right size; not 1/4" or 6.4mm as pictured).

If the Terminal 15 wire to the coil was burnt, it would serve you well to find out why, and where the short might be. That wire supplies +12V right from the ignition switch, and it is not protected by a fuse. Any short to ground in this wire will burn through the wire; sort of an electric space heater right next to that questionable fuel hose.

Don't worry, this is easy stuff to fix.

Good luck, Mondshine

[doublecanister]

I'll also mention,

one of the wires that attach to the coil (on my 73) ran behind the carb to a fuse holder (black cigar type thing). It's the fuse for the reverse lights.

Mine moved and caused the base of one of the spade connectors to ground out to a wire tab on the fan doghouse, instantly cut off the engine, funky smoke rolled out the sides, I thought I had a fire then.

In Ref your photos, the reverse light power lead would have attached to the coil directly behind your current fuel filter (in one of the pics), and that black cigar fuse holder (on my THING) was to the right rear of the carb.

Unsure if that could be one of your burnt wires. Hard to tell from the pics.

well, just wanted to mention. Check that, don't let it happen to you!
it scared the crap outta me when it happened too.

Well, Good luck with it and keep us posted!
[Move that fuel filter too! I ran a bit longer fuel hose and attached the filter with magnets from a old computer hard drive to catch any garbage in the fuel on the driver side Air Filter mount area.
Enough hose to keep everything out of the way, possible spare hose if I got a leak. If you want a pic I can get ya one.]

T
_________________
****************************************
2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[zohami]

Sure enough, the Pertronix must have failed suddenly on me, 'cause soon as I had the points and condenser set up, the Thing started right up. Got it timed and we're back on the road.

Citroen, Nice to know that diagnostic wire is not needed. Thanks

Mondshine, I've ordered the Kelley Speed fuel filter mount, and will move the filter, reroute and replace the fuel lines when it arrives. Thanks

Dblcan, My reverse lights work and their power wire and fuse are intact and were not in the melted bundle.

Got a fire extinguisher just in case, now where to mount it?
Thanks again all!
_________________
Sold the Doka, now it's a '74 Thing

[doublecanister]

Best suggestion for Fire ext mount is pretty much,

Where can you get to it the fastest and it's not in the way.

I have mine in the passenger floor board up towards the firewall.
Not sure it's the best location to access from the driver side,
but at the time it was a good place in the cabin but out of the way.
Real easy access from the passenger door.

Dern, now that I'm typing this, 2 extinguishers would be nice,
one on either side of the car, that would shorten the reaction time from the cabin to the engine bay which is the usual fire location.

All in the hope you'll never need it right?

Maybe others will chime in.

Glad you're getting the THING fixed up!

T
_________________
****************************************
2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[Ron Domeck]

Best place for the extinguisher is on the floor between the drivers seat and the rocker panel. If you are in the car you drop your hand and it is there. If you are outside the car open door and right there.