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Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 11:15 am    Post subject: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Hey Folks,

I got my rear sway bar in last week and was going to try to start that project this weekend, or at least get the "L brackets" mounted on the spring plate bolts. The L brackets have 3 holes in them but on the THING, It appears I'd only be using 2 of them. (best I can see with the wheel on)

I asked a few folks about the loosening spring plate bolts but I thought I'd post, for general use/knowledge, because I wasn't finding much in searching.

Question Is there any special steps or actions that you should do to "prepare" to remove/loosten the 3 bolts on the rear spring plates?

Everything I found on the subject was for removal or alignment adjustments.

I wanted to be sure of is that I'm not going to unload the spring/torsion bars by mistake and loose a finger in a scissor type spring unload reaction,
Or knock the rear suspension out of alignment somehow.

Citroen mentioned that you may get some spring plate movement but they would go back to position after you tighten up the bolts.

If just unloosening 2 of the 3 bolts isn't a problem, should go smooth.

I Didn't know if I should support anything extra or use a chain to keep anything from sping-unloading.

And as far as the spring plates moving a bit, I pondered if I could use a c clamp or two to hold it long enough for me to get the L bracket mounted to minimize any alignment issues or movement Question

Anyways, just thought I'd ask once more to be sure. I've Never done this before on the THING and wanted to get started this weekend.

Thanks guys!

PS: once this is done, I'm going to try to use MSTATEDOG's idea of making seats for the bushing for the rear sway bar. Don't know if I can do anything different but figured with the L brackets mounted I'd have a way to mount the bar and hold it in place to fab some sort of a mount for the bushing.
I've seen someone that didn't use any bushing mount and one that cut away the extra brace so they'd fit.
Not sure I can do much different but figured I'd give it a go.

We'll see how it turns out, I'll post some pic's but haven't got started yet.

T
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helowrench
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

no issues are to be had when removing the spring plate (part going forward that splines onto the torsion bar) and the diagonal arm (carries the wheel bearings, brake, etc).

The only concern is the weight of the assembly.

If you are happy with your current alignment, scribe or match mark (before you disassemble) the interface so you can line it up exactly upon assembly.

Rob
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:16 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Please post some photos when you are done with that rear sway bar installation!
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 4:34 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Leave the 3rd bolt attached to prevent the arm from moving on the spring plate and throwing off your alignment. I believe I had to notch that angled bracket slightly to clear but everything fit together ok.
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

hey Folks,

Well I got it done this weekend, took a quick test drive and noticed a somewhat improved ride, not so much side to side sway but more testing is needed. I did NOT check tire pressure on the test drive.

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I supported each rear wheel side with my jack to minimize any movement when I added the L brackets, and marked with a pencil, I used 1 C-Clamp just for extra added grip but, but thankfully neither side moved at all.
The brackets went back on ok. I did have to remove the spacer washer, but I put the spring washer back on, the bolts weren't long enough for both washers and the L bracket.


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Installing the red bushings and "not overtightening" them was the hardest challenge, what exactly is overtight? I just tried not to mushroom the bushings but make sure they were tight.

Now, I ended up NOT making a "perch" for the large bushings, the square brace with the bushings clamped seem to stay put and not move. Since the bar will protrude underneath the chassis about 3inchs, extra "perch" would just add to that distance, albeit not much.
Honestly, I'm not sure you need them and this method they seem firm.
(test drives) will let me know if I need to change or tighten anything.

I had to make a few adjustments as when first done I had the straps too tight
the bar was rubbing the bottom of the chassis so I backed off the L bracket bolts a few turns and the L bracket straps a bit, that made about 1/4in of clearance.


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The "clamps"-- The ones supplied with the kit are too small.
I ordered 2 "Generator straps" from CIP1 and they looked maybe a tad too large as I had to tighten the nut on them almost to the end but they worked!
That was a lucky guess on my part. bag included for ref.
Purchased from http://cip1.com


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I tried to get the large red bushings even on each side, I may need to re-tweak but I got them close.
Getting up and down on the cement floor and crawling in and out from under the THING was really giving me a workout! Very Happy

In all this wasn't too bad of an install, I did it Saturday afternoon.

I didn't make the perch's like MSTATEDOG did in his install and If I did, his method was fine, I wonder if I had some flat stock could I make something that fits over the support brace with a curved cup for the bushing but again, not sure it's really required.

My tires were not checked on my test drive so swaying side to side could be mostly air pressure.
I didn't notice it as much but just driving (on my road) which is full of dips and sways, so it should make for a more comfy drive.

I caught this sway bar on sale with CIP1, with a few extra doo-dad's ordered I got free shipping, got it in about a week.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions, I was a bit unsure on the Spring plate bolts but it went pretty smooth.

T
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

What was the part number for that rear sway bar?

Have you noticed any slipping of the red urethane bushing that is supposed to attach net to the round torsion arm housing since the Thing housing is boxed in for support?

Thanks
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

74 Thing wrote:
What was the part number for that rear sway bar?

Have you noticed any slipping of the red urethane bushing that is supposed to attach net to the round torsion arm housing since the Thing housing is boxed in for support?

Thanks


sway bar part# from CIP1
I searched their site by THING, for "rear sway bar"

C13-9597 - EMPI - IRS REAR SWAY BAR 3/4 INCH - BEETLE 69-79 / GHIA 69-74 / THING 73-74 - (A15)

No slipping yet noticed. Its rather tight right now, hope to do more test drives this weekend maybe.
If they were to slip, I'd have to make a perch for them to sit in and go around the torsion arm housings "box shape".

Someone else on the samba mounted theirs the same way and had reported no problems (cant rem who it was though).
T
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:46 am    Post subject: Re: Saturday Test drive Reply with quote

hey folks,

OK I got pretty much a full day of test driving in, little less than 75 miles ballpark.

I wish I had installed this rear sway bar on first purchase of my THING Exclamation

I never knew the THING could ride as good as it does now! Shocked Very Happy

Not a Caddy by any means but way better than before, no more sideways swaying even on back roads with the dips and sways they have.

Taking curves now, at speed, big difference!

In doing this test I pumped the tires up I used 20lbs in front 30lbs in rears.


The only bite is the large red bar bushings, They are still in place and tight but I'm thinking a perch for the bushings probably should be used but it does work without (so far).

I'm sold on the rear sway bar now, Thanks to Citroen for the suggestion.

I may play with an idea of a "perch" for the large bushings, If I make em' I'll post some photos.

Thanks all for the help and suggestions!

T
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citroen
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Thanks since I have mine I drive it like I stole it I have been told. This Thing makes turns without try to roll over. I did trim the extra metal under the torsion bar,not a neat job but I was in a hurry that day.

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911pickup
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

I'll be interested in any updates on this install, as I plan on installing front and rear sways on my Thing sometime this year.
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Well here's one update:

After my long drive last Saturday and the noticeable improvements in ride and taking curves....

I got home early last night, jacked up the THING and put it on jack stands.

I noticed the large red bushings had moved and thus the clamps had lots of slack in them.
Both had moved to the outer sides of the THING.
Both large red bushings were about 4 inches from the bar's inside bend.

You may can see where the red bushings 'were' by the remaining grease ring.

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NOW I understand MSTATEDOG's idea as well as why CITROEN cut his torsion bar brace.
The Torsion bar brace is on an angle.
I apparently did not have my clamps tight enough either.
Now, I'm not 100% sure the size clamps I have will tighten enough.
[More testing required]

It also seems the "bar" has "seated" which from driving they mentioned it would do. Going forward I think I'll need a pad mount for the bushing.

So, last night I came up with a mount [from avail metal I had] I just need to weld it together and test them.
I believe I can level them like MSTATEDOG did on his [half pipe mounts]
with a shim or two so they sit level on the angled tourqe-bar brace.


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And the instructions didn't really specify "where" to put the large red bushings, since my THING moved them out 4 in on each side I may use that as the mount spot.
Just need to make sure my clamps will get tight enough, the ones that come with the kit are "that much" too short.
And
The larger ones I bought now may be too large for this location...

Just fyi guys, still a work in progress.

T
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911pickup
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Thanks for the update.
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 11:02 am    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Another update:

I managed to create the perch's for the large red bushings for the rear sway bar.
Apparently in my attempt to try "not to use them"
the bar "seated" in position and it all moved around a bit.

So, I used that new position to help me create the pad that's offset a bit to hold the large red bushings in place.

I used the existing ss t-bar clamps that came with the kit to help keep my 2nd set of clamps from walking to the side.

Had a heck of a time too, it rained so much I had to do my weld work in short breaks in the storm. But it's on there now. Got it all tight and need one more test drive to see if it will hold in place.

If the bushings walk to either side I may need to weld some "ears" to the perches to hold....

Not sure the size of this metal but it was very difficult to cut with my hand shears, I think it's thick enough to do the job here. [hope so].


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the perch for the red bushings to rest on. I added a few strips to each side so
it was level on the angled bracing.

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put the bushings in the 3inch range [the middle]

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used the clamps that came with the sway bar kit as holders to keep the
bushing pads from moving.

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911pickup
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

Well done.
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doublecanister
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Removing the 3 Spring plate bolts on the rear supension Reply with quote

update:

I managed to take a short test drive on a few twisty bumpy local back roads. I was surprised how much better it feels like it's riding now.

I have the tires pumped up 20 in front 30 rear.

No movement on the pads or brackets on the sway bar so I think it's good!

I'll do a longer test this weekend to be sure but very much improved ride overall.

yay!
Dancing
T
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