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delibessleep
Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2005
Posts: 764
Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
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 Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:48 am Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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| The stock relay under the drivers seat sends power to the water pump and LED display via the paired #87 terminals and to the stock fridge via terminal #30. Both of these wires then go from the relay to the small black 2-circuit fuse block on the B pillar behind the drivers door. The blue wire only triggers the relay to send power to the fridge when the engine is running. |
I am in the process of building out my own solution, and this diagram is similar except that I am also installing an on-board trickle charger connected to the spare outlet on the fridge (the intent is to charge the batteries when connected to shore.)
I am using a Blue Seas ACR instead of the Yandina.
My major concern: What happens if you are plugged into shore power and start the engine? The ACR does have a starter interruption connection point. In the elimination of the fridge relay (I have a functioning Dometic), should I connect the "85" Ignition switch ground (on the relay) to the SI connection point on the ACR?
Here is what I have so far. As you can see I intend to migrate the fridge/water pump off the stock fuse block. I am concerned that, without an interruption of some kind, starting the car while plugged in may cause a problem.
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63 Single Cab
87 Westy
18 Alltrack
Biology is destiny...choose your mutations carefully |
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chase4food
Samba Member
Joined: February 27, 2016
Posts: 636
Location: PNW im Amerika
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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Just a finer point of the Westy relay for the fridge. It serves two purposes. 1) unload the fridge from the staring battery while cranking so the fridge's heating element does not compete the with the current the starter need to crank over the engine. 2) only power the fridge DC heating elements when the engine is running - i.e. when the alternator is charging to supply to power hungry circa few hundred watts the heating elements want.
Without it you will run down your house battery very fast, should you leave the rocker switch to DC.
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- Vince 飲食玩睡
what Isolde wants Isolde doesn't always get, 4 I know what is best for her - Liebe macht frei |
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delibessleep
Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2005
Posts: 764
Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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Yes, my hope is to maintain the current wiring scheme for the fridge. But also want to isolate other elements while starting the engine. In my drawing, the battery maintainer is NOT directly connected to the aux battery; I have the positive lead to a fuse, and the negative to a bus bar. Will the ACR prevent the maintainer from charging the start battery?
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63 Single Cab
87 Westy
18 Alltrack
Biology is destiny...choose your mutations carefully |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9920
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:45 am Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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There are various inconsistencies in your diagram. Skipping over the smaller ones, where is the starter motor connection? Where is the fuel injection power connection?
Mark |
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chase4food
Samba Member
Joined: February 27, 2016
Posts: 636
Location: PNW im Amerika
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:47 am Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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| delibessleep wrote: |
| Yes, my hope is to maintain the current wiring scheme for the fridge. But also want to isolate other elements while starting the engine. In my drawing, the battery maintainer is NOT directly connected to the aux battery; I have the positive lead to a fuse, and the negative to a bus bar. Will the ACR prevent the maintainer from charging the start battery? |
I pointed out the fridge relay as it is not shown in your diagram. Good you plan to keep it.
Modern battery trickle charger (like your maintainer) should not care about ACR, or even if the alternator is charging or not charging. They are typically semi-dumb design, that just source current to the battery if the voltage is under a certain predetermined value. There are however, possible exceptions like old dumb chargers.
That said I will add a disclaimer to check the specifications of the products you plan to use, or seek a qualified technician to perform the work. Some of us can be held to higher standard for tort damage. 
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- Vince 飲食玩睡
what Isolde wants Isolde doesn't always get, 4 I know what is best for her - Liebe macht frei |
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John Sullivan
Samba Member
Joined: July 04, 2006
Posts: 170
Location: Lansdale, PA
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| Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:15 am Post subject: Re: Battery Set Up Opinion |
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The Truck Fridge installation in my 1987 Westfalia. I recently completed the installation of two Aux batteries, TF49 Fridge, Luggage Rack Solar, Meter, AC Charger and the Projecta IDC25 controller. Many thanks to the vision of people on TheSamba for the various ideas. The key to the whole system is the IDC25 which I purchased new on Ebay, shipped from Australia. The unit is small, efficient and includes: MPPT for solar, built in ACR, 3 stage charging with current limit, and battery type selectable. The controller is pretty small and I mounted it on a panel with a terminal board that sits on the shelf under the drivers seat and feeds into the fuse panel nicely.
The meter measures voltage and current simultaneously. I used a DPDT (on-off-on ) switch to the meter giving a dual purpose. It is wired so that I can see the Solar voltage and current (up) and the house voltage (down). The center position is all off. I also wired in a dual USB port, that also is on in either the up or down position, but off in the middle.
The Solar panel is a 100 watt flat unit mounted in the luggage rack. It is mounted to corrugated plastic with the solar connectors just below and 5 wing nuts holding it down. It can be removed and placed in a remote position. I have modified the pressurized house water input to an SAE bulkhead connector for use with separate or remote solar panel operation. The solar panel return goes through the ammeter for current measurement.
I have two AGM batteries with the system. One is the 50 AH unit located in the driver aux battery location, next to the fuse panel and battery controller. The second AGM battery is a 100 AH Telcom battery that I picked up on ebay a Deka 12AVR100ET. This battery is thin and fits very nicely sideways on the floor under the rear seat. I got this for a steal at $129 with a 8-16 manf date code.
The TF49 fridge is an AC/DC unit. The solar works great, the AC charger is compatible and the IDC25 controls the system. I recently tested the system on DC in my garage running for 5 days with no light for solar. I have included photos and the schematic of the installation and system. Everything is fused and located neatly out of the way.
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