Repair and Re-cover Brown Dash

[djkeev]

It would have to be reasonably priced. There are many good used units that come up for sale.

The market is small.
Consider this (and feel free to correct my year breaks if I'm incorrect)

1980-1983 Brown Metal Dash

1984-1986 Brown fully Padded Dash (the target years)

1987-1991 Black fully Padded Dash (haven't yet heard about decaying black dash pads)

Only the 84-86 dash pads suffer from the drying damage. And the odd thing is that randomly not all suffer this decay! There are many perfect brown dash pads out there! I don't know why, random difference in manufacturing of the plastic?
I've never tried to figure out the years or production dates of units that sport the good dash.

If you were able to produce a GOOD replica, it would need to attractively priced only slightly higher than a good used unit.

Is there a market? Absolutely! ........ but I do believe that it is a small market.

IMHO

Dave
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[OddN]

[OddN]

Actually VW Classic Parts have both brown, black and light grey paddings new, at an even steeper price:

http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/armaturenbrettabdeckung-t3-2c8b7d.html
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1991 VW Multivan syncro 1,9 TD

[Birdrocksweeper]

[Inlet]

I am wondering how your dash has been holding up? Do you park your van outside? is it exposed to the sun while parked?

I have the vinyl, and am now waiting on the super special 3M glue (I'm hoping the company actually ships it to CA as most won't).

[GoWestyYoungMan]

I am following in Dave's path on dash recovering for my 30 year old brown dash from my 1986 Vanagon.
My dash pad looked like everyone else's dried and cracked beyond hope of a simple fix.
A quote from the local dash repair business is $1,400.
So over the past two days I have carefully as possible removed all old vinyl...yes I am aware of Dave's overlay approach.
However, I want a fresh sub-surface because this van is going thru major 100% overhaul and have big bucks already invested.

After two days of careful removal:

[/img]

[img]

[/img]

Question to others following this thread is using automotive body filler the best option for smoothing and repairing places where original foam is missing?

Yes, the tray section is removed because too much original foam is lost during removal of old vinyl.
I will be sanding it down flush with the other mating sections.
A light coat of epoxy is going on the "non-foam" sections to protect from heat and UV.

Thanks to Dave for sending his tool mentioned on page 4.
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1986 Syncro Conversion

[djkeev]

Body putty dries rock hard.

Expanding foam or gorilla glue would be my choices. They can be easily formed when dry.
Expanding foam comes in so many variations today, I'd opt for the low expansion type, for windows I believe. You may need to make a tape/cardboard expansion limiter so it is forced where you want it to go and not just lie on the top.

Dave

Glad the tool arrived!
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Inlet]

How did you attach the pad back to the metal dash? Mine is riveted on

[GoWestyYoungMan]

[GoWestyYoungMan]

[Inlet]

Its OEM, the rivets are attached to small plates that are molded into the foam. I see the OP has phillips screws holding it together. I guess thats what Im going with.

edit, I may glue nuts into the foam, and use machined screws to bring it all together.

[GoWestyYoungMan]

[Inlet]

Yeah I got the Joannes vinyl, the hardest thing to find was that 3M glue as its verboten in CA.

[GoWestyYoungMan]

[llilibel03]

I posted this question on another dashboard thread.

While the results look great I wanted to find a way to refinish an 85 brown dry river bed dash without having to take off the dash.

I found this-

https://www.polyvance.com/Padded-Dash-Filler-2/2050-9/


anybody ever try this product?

They also have a specific cleaner for removing silicon armor all type protectorants and a spray on paint.

[Christopher Schimke]

Personally, I think you would have A LOT more work in trying to repair that foam than you would if you were to simply replace it all. If it were me, I would remove all of the old foam and start over. You can recreate the raised ribs around the edge by gluing down foam cord around the perimeter and then laying closed cell foam sheet over the entire dash. You can make a smoother, more gradual transition off the edge by using two different sized cords positioned next to each other with the larger one near the edge and the smaller one laying right next to it on the inside. Then when you lay the foam sheet over them, the transition to flat is more gradual. For the recesses around the ashtray and vents, you would simply cut the foam back the appropriate amount (about 10mm or so) and then use sandpaper to round off the edges. I'll be that once you have the dash cleaned of the old foam, the new foam could be in place and shaped in less than an hour and the results would be much cleaner than trying to patch up that crappy old foam. And if you are inclined, you could use the new foam to do something custom on the dash. You could even incorporate a recess next to the dash pod to hold your cell phone from sliding around.
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[Christopher Schimke]

Or better yet, check this out: http://www.haganauto.com/product_p/dobn.htm I knew I had seen that somewhere but couldn't find it when I posted above. And follow along with the videos below. It's a door panel, but the process would be exactly the same for your dash. Skip to the 7:00 mark to see where the foam work begins. They don't show laying a complete foam layer over the top of the panel before lying down the vinyl, but I would definitely do that on your dash prior to laying the vinyl down. I would use 1/8" or 1/4" closed cell foam sheet.

Part 1:

Link


Part 2:

Link

_________________
"Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)

*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected]

[GoWestyYoungMan]

[quote="Christopher Schimke"]Personally, I think you would have A LOT more work in trying to repair that foam than you would if you were to simply replace it all. .[/quote

Hi Christopher,
I have read your replies, watched the video's and read the link and understand the general concept involved pretty well.

Right now, I am testing Gorilla glue in a few places and will know in an few hours how effective/easy it is.

I will seriously think over your suggestion and report in this thread.

Thank you a lot for great suggestion and help!
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1986 Syncro Conversion

[Merian]

there is a flex putty material made just for such uses - a body shop supply house will have it
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[GoWestyYoungMan]