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electronic iginition woes
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Rob Hibbard
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 3:46 pm    Post subject: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

I recently tried the new hot spark electronic ignition module--what a mistake. I've learned to install points and condenser but thought for the money....well I was wrong! After buying a new module, new coil and ballast resistor, I still burned up the module within a month. The company then tells me that my alternator is putting out too much voltage for their system. That would have been nice to know BEFORE buying the system. So in other words, I would have to practically redo my entire electrical system in order to use their module. Money down the drain! For all I've spent I could have bought 10 sets of points and condenser. Anyone else have this experience?
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:18 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

I haven't had quite the experience that you had, but I have gone back to points and condenser. I jumped on that bandwagon a few years ago, but have gone back old school. The problem with the electronic module is that if it fails you are stranded. I have had points close up (can be readjusted), and condensers fail, both more then once. However, I have always been able to limp my way home or to a parts store (sometimes very slow). Also, points and condensers "usually" give some type of warning, before they fail. So for me this newer technology does not yet have the needed reliability.

As far as your case, I think they were giving you a load of crap. No two cars will have the same charging voltage, so unless you were putting out 18V or something, that brand is crap. You should list the brand, so others can stay away. That is the only real power we have against bad parts, getting the word out.
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Rob Hibbard
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:27 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing with me. The brand is Hot Spark, that advertises right here on the Samba. That's the reason I gave them a shot is because they advertised on this site. So be warned my friends! Stay with the old school.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:26 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Rob Hibbard wrote:
I recently tried the new hot spark electronic ignition module--what a mistake. I've learned to install points and condenser but thought for the money....well I was wrong! After buying a new module, new coil and ballast resistor, I still burned up the module within a month. The company then tells me that my alternator is putting out too much voltage for their system. That would have been nice to know BEFORE buying the system. So in other words, I would have to practically redo my entire electrical system in order to use their module. Money down the drain! For all I've spent I could have bought 10 sets of points and condenser. Anyone else have this experience?


I've run Hotspark on my 74 BMW 2002Tii for several years with no issues and steady ignition. I've had solid state OEM ignition on my 80 an 81 Fiat spiders. But, if they fail, there is no limp home. So keep a spare.

How much voltage was you alternator putting out (which the company thought was too much)?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Keep a spare condenser and points in the glove box, they will always get you back home
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 6:40 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Rob Hibbard wrote:
I recently tried the new hot spark electronic ignition module--what a mistake. I've learned to install points and condenser but thought for the money....well I was wrong! After buying a new module, new coil and ballast resistor, I still burned up the module within a month. The company then tells me that my alternator is putting out too much voltage for their system. That would have been nice to know BEFORE buying the system. So in other words, I would have to practically redo my entire electrical system in order to use their module. Money down the drain! For all I've spent I could have bought 10 sets of points and condenser. Anyone else have this experience?


Hold on a second buckaroo....I ran into a similar situation with a Super that I worked on. There were all kinds of voltage spikes...Wasnt visible on an analog meter, but was on my digital. Had a bad regulator and it killed the module. Clue should have been that the customer was burning up points and he also had a damaged coil. One other thing - coil impedance is important with points module.

Your issue should be corrected before you damage your battery or other electrical components in the car. This has nothing to do with a defective module. You have a charging system problem.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Rob Hibbard wrote:
Anyone else have this experience?

If you did a search you would of seen they have a poor reputation.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

I've run nothing but Bosch points and condensers for 30+ years of VW ownership. I've never had either fail or give me issues. In the last 5 years, I've bought many spare NOS Bosch points and condensers made in the 70's. I've also run used Bosch German made condensers for thousands and thousands of miles w/out issue.

I'd love to install an electronic module IF I knew it was bullet proof. However, I know too many people that had (pick the brand) a module fail.

Part of the charm for me and these VW's is fine tuning the dwell and setting the points while adding a small dab of points grease on the cam.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:53 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

I had 3 different electronic points distributors fail after a couple of weeks. I just went back to points and couldn't be happier.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:05 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
...I ran into a similar situation with a Super that I worked on. There were all kinds of voltage spikes...Wasnt visible on an analog meter, but was on my digital. Had a bad regulator and it killed the module. .... One other thing - coil impedance is important with points module ... This has nothing to do with a defective module. You have a charging system problem.

I agree that an electronic (solid state) ignition module is more sensitive to voltage issues. You need to make sure your charging system (and electrical system) can deliver the proper voltage range to operate the module. Not too low, not too high.

I had the opposite problem after installing my CompuFire system... all the testing done while the engine was OFF showed the module worked properly. I could rotate the crank by hand and watch a spark jump from the end of each spark plug wire to ground. But I could not get the engine to start WHILE the engine was cranking. The engine would crank but would not "catch". It would only catch when I released the key and it returned to the ON/RUN position. I could crank the engine for 10-20 sec and it would not "catch" until I released the key. My problem turned out to be a voltage issue with the #15 wire that powered the ignition coil. While the engine was cranking the voltage on the #15 wire dropped below 11v. Too low to power the ignition module so the module would not fire the ignition coil. When I released the key and the starter stopped drawing current the voltage bounced back to 12v and the module would start working. This was caused by old wiring with too much resistance.

The point I am trying to make is that the installation of a modern component requires that the electrical system provide the proper range of voltage to support the device.
For example, if you installed a nice modern digital car stereo and your charging system "fried" the stereo because it was producing too much voltage... would you blame the stereo? You might, until you confirmed the voltage was too high. Then you would concede that the stereo was not at fault and the charging system killed it. If this is the case with your car lets make sure we place the blame in the correct place.
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Rob Hibbard
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 7:28 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Wow, just let me start by saying thanks for all your replies. It's cool to have this site to share and learn from others experiences. I'll try to give you guys the full story.

First off, my alternator is putting out 14 V, too high for the hot spark module, according to the tech support guy. I get that. However, I had had previous experience with this company, having bought not one, but two modules for my '62 Bug with a generator. Both failed within a month of installation. So when I decided to try again, I told the tech this story and asked specifically what I could do to avoid these problems with my '72 with an alternator. I bought a new coil and ballast resister from them and was told that should take care of the problem. Nothing was mentioned about too high an output from the alternator by the tech or from what I saw on the website. So now I'm out $150 to the company and they could care less. That's why I decided to share this thread and see if others have had the same problem. For all the money I've spent I could have bought umpteen points and condenser sets.

Thanks again for all your replies and for a forum of people to talk to!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

14V is not too high for any component made for a 12v auto electrical system. System voltage when the alternator is working will be anywhere from 13.8-14.2v so if the electronic device cannot handle 14v, then it is defective or unsuitable for automotive use.

Now if your voltage regulator is dying and occasionally allowing spikes well over 14v, then that's a problem.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:30 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

It seems it really doesn't matter how much your generator, alternator, or voltage regulator is putting out except as measured at the connections to the module and what it expects/accepts. If the module is seeing spikes or dips above/below the threshold voltages it functions at, then it's going to fail. I'm surprised the techs didn't offer some type of filter to put inline with the module wiring to prevent those types of conditions!
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Rob Hibbard
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:45 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

The new coil and ballast resister were suppose to solve that problem--the module wires went through the resistor before going to the module. Obviously that didn't work!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:46 am    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

I recently had a starting issue like Ashman described (running points here) but it only happened when it was wet outside. I fought it for a while and did all kinds of troubleshooting. My uncle the mechanic said, without hearing anything but "wet" "Change your spark plug wires." I thought it might be the crappy autozone coil I had so swapped it out. Well, the ONLY connection I never checked removed was the wire going from the coil to the distributor. And guess what, it was FUBAR. I suspect that hanging upside down lets moisture just hang out at that end, slowly corroding it. When it was wet you lose voltage, especially while the starter is cranking. I was getting spark out of the coil but it was too weak to fire the cylinders. I took the wire out and the distributor end was perfect so I cleaned up the corroded end best I could with a wire brush and swapped the orientation of the wire so the perfect side was attached to the coil and away I go. New wires are on my shopping list. Here's the collection of rust-mud and corrosion I found in the coil:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


For what its worth I ran a Compufire in my Bug for around 15 years with no issues. I only switched to points cuz my shiny new Mexi-Bosch distributor came with them. Have had no troubles with the points but I keep my old distributor with the Compufire module in it in the trunk just in case. It was still working when I pulled it (dizzy was physically worn).
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:26 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
14V is not too high for any component made for a 12v auto electrical system. System voltage when the alternator is working will be anywhere from 13.8-14.2v so if the electronic device cannot handle 14v, then it is defective or unsuitable for automotive use.

Now if your voltage regulator is dying and occasionally allowing spikes well over 14v, then that's a problem.

I'd agree with this. I'd even go as far to say that 14.9v would be an acceptable max from a charging system. If the electrical component cannot handle voltages in the 12.0v-14.9v range it is probably not fit for automotive use. I have come across many automotive components rated for 11.0v-18.0v. But as both andk5591 and sjbartnik pointed out, you need to be careful with "voltage spikes" too.


Rob Hibbard wrote:
The new coil and ballast resister were suppose to solve that problem--the module wires went through the resistor before going to the module. Obviously that didn't work!

Actually, the ballast resistor doesn't have much of an effect on the voltage that reaches the module. It is meant to reduce the current that passes thru the coil primary circuit and thru the points/electronic module. If the sum of the resistance thru the primary side of the coil is less than 3.0ohms (you might be able to get away with as little as 2.5ohms) then the current passing thru the points/module could cause damage. Some of the newer modules like the Pertronix Ignitor II and III have protection circuits to avoid damage. But most of the less expensive modules will fail if too much current is allowed to pass.

You mentioned having a ballast resistor in addition to the resistance thru the coil primary. What was the sum of this resistance (coil + external ballast resistor)?
In my case, I went with a "high output" canister ignition coil with 0.5-ohms of resistance in the primary. To allow this to work with the Beetle ignition system I added a 2.5ohm external ballast resistor bringing the total resistance to around 3.0-ohms (it actually measured around 2.8ohms). Not all external ballast resistors are the same. For example, if you added a 1.0ohm external ballast resistor to your coil which had 0.5ohms of internal resistance you only get 1.5ohms of resistance total. This would allow too much current to reach the module and likely burn it up even if the voltage is only 12.0v.
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Rob Hibbard
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:00 pm    Post subject: Re: electronic iginition woes Reply with quote

Boy AshMan--I have no idea how to answer your question as I'm not well versed in the electrical side of things. All I know is I have their brand new coil and a ballast resister plus the module. Bottom line is I'm back with points and condenser and will stay there!
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