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Lo Cash John
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2004
Posts: 2246
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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 Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 2:03 pm Post subject: Intact fuel injection removal from 411 wagon |
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Hey guys, I normally don't post in the 411/412 forum but I'm needing some injection tech support.
I have a buddy who has found a very intact but amazingly rusted 411 wagon and he can grab parts of it. The motor is there and he's considering grabbing the motor, trans (auto) and the complete fuel injection stuff.
The question is, besides the items that are part of the engine itself, what else does he need to get? Where/what relays, sensors and other items are mounted around the car?
Is there a thread anywhere that details the complete, intact removal of a D-Jet injection system from a Type IV? If so, please provide a link
I know other have installed D-Jet Type IV motors into Type III but I have not found a detailed "removal & salvage guide".
Also, does anyone know if the auto-trans shifter cable on a Type III & Type IV are the same? This parts car has a good cable but we're not sure it's usable on a Type III. It seems the Type III ones are hard to come by.
Thanks!!
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My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone. |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 33991
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 2:51 pm Post subject: Re: Intact fuel injection removal from 411 wagon |
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In addition to those parts directly on the engine, you have the ECU (computer) found in the cabin behind the right rear armrest, if I remember right (don't count on that!), the harness connecting the ECU to the engine equipment (tough to snake out, unless it's REALLY rusted!), the pressure sensor (MPS) mounted to the engine bay/floor on the left side, and a couple of relays (under the back seat maybe, and under the dash?-- don't worry about that wiring). Then there is the fuel pump and filter at the front of the car underneath.
I am more familiar with the Type 3 setups but I think locations are very similar (except for ECU) on the Type 4 cars. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: Intact fuel injection removal from 411 wagon |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
In addition to those parts directly on the engine, you have the ECU (computer) found in the cabin behind the right rear armrest, if I remember right (don't count on that!), the harness connecting the ECU to the engine equipment (tough to snake out, unless it's REALLY rusted!), the pressure sensor (MPS) mounted to the engine bay/floor on the left side, and a couple of relays (under the back seat maybe, and under the dash?-- don't worry about that wiring). Then there is the fuel pump and filter at the front of the car underneath.
I am more familiar with the Type 3 setups but I think locations are very similar (except for ECU) on the Type 4 cars. |
Damn!...pretty good memory KTPhil!
1. Yes...on the left side under the back seat. There is a relay rack. Only one is the fuel injection relay. You will want to NOT cut the white wires going to it as they are part of the fuel injection harness......
Wait...wait.....the EFI power relay may not be with this group.
2. No...its bolted to the top of the ECU box under the passenger side back set armrest as KTPhil noted.
There is a fuel pump relay identical to the one on top of the ECU...under the dash screwed to the right hand side of the pedal cluster.
3. The fuel pump....if the car is heavily rusted and has been sitting....its almost not worth crawling under there with the rats and spiders.
Other items of value:
The relays under the back seat....go to the BA4 gas heater that is above the automatic transmission...awesome heating machine
https://www.type4.org/manuals/ba4/
The relays and heater, its heat probes, the harness and the clicker fuel pump (left hand side heater duct forward of the left back wheel) have value.
Also...if your buddy will remove the brake pedal cluster complete with the most likely totally shot brake master cylinder...2-3 bolts on the fire wall and two vertical bolts on the edge of the dash up near the bottom of the steering wheel shroud.....I can give him about $25 for the pedal cluster (the two or 3 in the classifieds are way overpriced)....and will give him $10 for the master cylinder core....I'm about to do a cylinder plating run soon and can use some dead cores.
Here is where the bolts are. Just cut the brake lines and switch wires.
The Cable for the shifter and the shifter itself are type 4 parts but can be retrofitted to work in a type 3
Shifter #: 411 713 025 C and 411 713 025 D
Cable # 411 713 265 C
But the switches under the shifter cover are type 3:
Starter inhibitor switch: 311 927 145
Contact carrier: 311 927 147 and 311 9127 147 A
Ray |
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Lo Cash John
Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2004
Posts: 2246
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 4:18 pm Post subject: Re: Intact fuel injection removal from 411 wagon |
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Ray I'll pass the word.
Wher is the fuel pressure regulator mounted?
_________________
www.LoCashRacing.org
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!
If you actually drive your VW, you need www.AirMapp.com
My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: Intact fuel injection removal from 411 wagon |
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| Lo Cash John wrote: |
Ray I'll pass the word.
Wher is the fuel pressure regulator mounted? |
Its mounted to the sheef metal just forward of the #3 sparkplug.
Really....he should get the whole engine and trans. Lots of other parts I would like to say he should get.....as type 4 parts are quite finite in supply. Front suspension parts...even a worn out dash....and the gas tank is unique. And the gas tank flap cable assembly are uniqie and unobtanium. I rebuild them.
But there are two problems with getting type 4 parts.
1. If you can strip a car for free.....have a place to keep things for a while......and sell the parts for reasonable prices......you can,sell the parts and make money....and help people out. Do not be in a hurry.
It costs far more to restore a type 4 than a type 3 or beetle. Virtually everything on the suspension and all gaskets.....must be fabricated.
So even though type 4 people appear to be cheap....we are not. We just have so much cost involved already.
2. I am working my ass off to convince a lot of the newbies to:
A. Collect parts when they are available...because when they are gone....there will be no more. Forgo a couple meals and a six pack to get what is hard to find as a spare. Also....things you do not expect to break....CAN break.....and nothing is available.
B. I tell everyone that if you want to actually drive these cars.....and keep these cars for a long time......and do not own a spare pair of caliper castings, a spare steering box....(fits nothing else....and nothing else fits..., an extra rebuildable master cylinder core (they fit no other car).....and a front suspension subframe if you see one for sale (I have broken two over the years).....a spare pair of control arms (I have bent two and wore out two more over the years)..............then they are just stupid.
But......one cannot buy .....say...a steering box that becomes available on a whim.....when its $100.....or a subframe for $85.
To the people seiling at these prices.....I say....if it cost you that much to acquire....you got fucked. I ask them.....who do you think your target and sales audience is?
A steering hox..... $35-50 tops. A subframe.... $50 tops. We just have too many other parts to spend money on. Ray |
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