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Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle
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banditwolf
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing I have to add is the lime green wire (upper left on fuse block) appears to have been added as it looks clean and brighter then the original wires. This will have constant power being on top I believe. And see what the spliced blue wire is going to. (sorry if I missed that in the posts)
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mgamike
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tripp,
To elaborate on your fuse issue, imagine that you have a 1/2 inch pipe with water running out. Change that pipe to 1 inch. While it may allow more water to flow, all things being equal, it will still flow the same water as before if nothing downstream changes. Your fuse issue is the same. While you had a 16 amp fuse in slot 11, your 8 amp fuse in slot 12 was still rated at 8 amps. Nothing would change on this. Since you should be getting power on the 'power side' of the fuse box, circuit 11 and circuit 12 would be acting independently of each other and neither circuit would care what size fuse was in the other circuit. If your PO had wired the load side of #12 with battery power and backfed circuit 11, the 8 amp fuse would most probably have been too small to handle the load. You need battery power on the jumpered sides of the fuse box, regardless of the size fuse you are using.
The fact that your changing the fuse in circuit 11 has corrected the problem is really not applicable to your problem. You have a short on the load side of fuse 12. If you disconnect all wires from the load side of fuse 12, you should be able to put your test light on each wire, going to chassis ground (with a battery in the circuit) and find your short.
Good luck.
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Luft kühl
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tripp654 wrote:
Alright I disconnected the fuel guage wires, I disconnected the green wire at the emergency flasher switch, and the fuse still blew! I am stumped...


At terminal #15 where you disconnected the green wire there should also be a black one that goes to the brake system warning light.

Were there two separate wires connected at terminal #15 ? Or two wires crimped together at the same connector (like the end at the fusebox) ?

If you were not able to separate them when testing, that could explain why the fuse would still blow.

If each wire is connected separately and you happened to knock the black wire loose when removing the green one, this could explain why the fuse no longer blows.
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Malakite
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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 6:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Guys, I have the exact same problem..my no. 11 & 12 Fuse holderds are NOT joined together though.... any ideas???
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 7:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Malakite wrote:
Guys, I have the exact same problem..my no. 11 & 12 Fuse holderds are NOT joined together though.... any ideas???

Hmm, it sounds like you have the #1 side of the fuse box mixed up with the #12 side. As seen from the driver's seat, fuse #1 is closest to the left side of the car, #12 is closest to the right side. Confirm you are numbering your fuses correctly. Maybe post a pic?

Here is pic of a typical late model fuse box (trunk side view):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Note that the two fuses on the left of the pic share a common INPUT connection at the bottom. This allows one wire to power both fuses. The two fuses on the right side are split and requires a separate power source each.

Since this is the trunk side of the fuse box the fuse on the right side of the pic is fuse #1. So fuse #1 and #2 do not have a shared common INPUT built into the fuse box. These two fuses are the parking lights and the grey #58 wire from the headlight switch will typically have two female connectors, one to power each fuse.
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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Malakite
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Hi, right it's 100% blowing when I turn the right indicator... any ideas as I've checked all the wiring with a metre and they are all fine.. Sad
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Malakite
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 11:24 am    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

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Malakite
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

My dad seems to think it must be the Indicator arm shorting ... it's intermittent - do you agree?? Otherwise what on earth could it be??..
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Malakite wrote:
Hi, right it's 100% blowing when I turn the right indicator... any ideas as I've checked all the wiring with a metre and they are all fine.. Sad

What does "all fine" mean?? What checks did you perform and what were the results.

Take a close up pic of the #12 fuse connections on the trunk side of your fuse box. Are there any extra wires? #12 is a common source of power for ignition powered users installed accessories. Describe where each of the wires on fuse #12 run to.

Find the three turn signal wires that come from the turn signal switch and pass thru the grommet hole into the trunk. The wires colors are as follows:
    black/green/white wire - #49a terminal of the flasher relay
    black/green wire - right side turn signal wire which connects to a 4-wire junction with other wires of the same color
    black/white wire - left side turn signal wire which connects to a 4-wire junction with other wires of the same color

Disconnect these three wires from their connection points so the turn signal switch is now completely disconnected. Use your ohm meter to confirm none of the wires is grounded in ANY switch position. When the turn signal switch is in the left turn position the black/green/white wire is connected to the black/white wire. WHen in the right turn position the black/green/white wire is connected to the black/green wire.
If it passes the above tests, the turn signal switch is good.

Remove all the right turn signal bulbs, front and rear.
With your ohm meter test the junction of black/green wires for continuity to ground. With the bulbs removed there should not be any path to ground. If there is, disconnect one wire at a time from the junction until the path to ground disappears. The last wire you removed it likely the one shorted to ground. Trace it to find the short.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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Malakite
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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2017 7:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Hello sir - thank you SO VERY MUCH for your detailed response. Yes I've done al ofnrhat and it appears it's shorting from the indicator arm on the steering column... any ideas on the best solution at all??...
also I had my MOT today... it failed but only on one wheel bearing (OSR)... I'm just wondering where you would recommend one for me? Are the pattern ones just as good, or should I just be buying original?.. Also is it worth doing ALL wheels instead of just one?? I'm wondering if it may make a difference to fuel economy having all new ones, or am I just being daft?? Lol
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Malakite
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2017 12:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Keep Blowing Number 12 fuse on 72 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Does anyone know the best way to replace the indicator arm, and also if I need to buy the entire unit at all??
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