1983 Mk1 Cabriolet fuel injected - fuel problem

[Hiramhaus]

Hi,

I have a 1983 Mk1 with a fuel issue. I pulled the fuel filter and found nothing was making it to the front of the car. I should have checked the Relay first, but I didn't. I went to the back and found that the "Fuel Accumulator" was bad by removing the screw on the bottom and fuel squirt out.

I then ran the fuel pump and nothing came out. So I replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel accumulator and the fuel pump relay for good measure.

Now, I had to up the idle to get it to idle without magic feet. Then when I get up to 2500 RPM it starts bucking, and if I floor it, it dies altogether.

If I just shift at 2400 its seems fine, just won't rev over 2500


any ideas?
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[TDCTDI]

The fastest that I ever got one to spin was about 9,000rpm.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[crsmp5]

so you put a new tank in it or had the old one cleaned out of any rust?? if not new fuel pump will be toast first time you fill it up...

if the pump, accumulator were bad... what mystical place do your unicorns blow rainbow farts?? if you the cis system is good?

so now with your trusty fuel pressure gauge.. if you lack this.. just put every thing you own in a pile and burn it.. start doing diagnostics... else throw money at it till you hate life and set it a fire

you can build a gauge.. the one you need is over $100 to buy... else under 30 to build.. cannot buy from advance/zone type big box part stores.. they only sell the wrong one..

if you did not remove the rust from inside the fuel tank... stop.. remove the new pump... hope the rust silt has not found its way in yet... else buying new pump as bosch does not cover this... and no other pump on the market will ever let it run correct... next question.. bosch pump right?? time to sell the copper from your house to buy one if not... also buy a 1983-1988 audi 4000 pre fuel pump filter.. 25-35$ each... its plastic and goes between the tank and the pump.. it will catch the rust silt nothing else does.. most other filters cannot flow the gal/min flow that pump sucks... that filter is made for it.. just room sux.. but it will fit.. do not pinch off the hose any way is hardest trick.. ive done this and it works... then x stole car.. i went removed filter one night to be a dick.. and next day dead car she sold to a guy i knew.. i put in new pump/filter and till he totaled it a few years later no issue.. top of tank had rust that sloshing gas would silt into the pump
_________________
[url=http://cdn2.driiive.com/7037.jpg]Click to view image[/url]

[Hiramhaus]

I pumped the fuel out of the tank through the sender hole. It looked very clean inside when I looked with a flashlight. Someone suggested that I feel the relay while it's bucking to see if it's clicking.
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[crsmp5]

go get 2 male spade terminals... 3" of wire... put it together... this is vw tool #1 to own... it will be in glove box for life... trust me...

the 2 terminals that make a T shape... stick that tool in.. fuel pump will be running as long as the tool is installed... so will kill batt if installed... but eliminates relay 100% for testing purpose... you will also need to do this when you use the fuel pressure gauge you NEED.. if you refuse to do that... just burn it to the ground...

those relay #s should be 30 and 87.. but they make a T shape.. all ya need to know.. but doing that on "any" relay that has a 30/87 jumps past said relay... be a 2014 gm (has micro relay so no T but has #s) or a 78 vw.. those 2 numbers seem to do it.. standerized i guess thru car markets... ford uses 1, 2, 3.. type #s so no count.. but they use the T

was the top of the tank.. mirror required new looking?? sloshing gas across the top of the tank is what id worry bout.. if its brown.. the rust color washes into the gas.. then into the rollers of the pump bearig locking it up.. silt... its bad bad..
_________________
[url=http://cdn2.driiive.com/7037.jpg]Click to view image[/url]

[Hiramhaus]

Link



In getting variable electricity over 2,500 RPM
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[Hiramhaus]

I don't think they match.
Tried to make a jumper but my spade connectors are too small.
I'll try again tomorrow with some larger.
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[kamzcab86]

A) Make sure the car's main grounds are either new or cleaned exceptionally well, and that the secondary grounds are shiny clean.
http://www.cabby-info.com/electrical.htm#Ground

B) You cannot simply adjust the idle on K-Jetronic, nor should you willy-nilly mess with air-fuel mix. Read this and do all the tests in it:
http://cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingAirFuelMixture.pdf

C) As for the fuel pump relay:

_________________
~Kamz
1986 Cabriolet: www.Cabby-Info.com
1990 Vanagon Westfalia: Old Blue's Blog
2016 Golf GTI S
"Real knowledge is to know the extent of one's ignorance." - 孔子

[Hiramhaus]

Thank you, I believe that answered my question.
The old one is on the left - you can see the rust on the board.
The numbers are not the same "056" but it appears there is a difference between my new one and the one in your images above.

_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[kamzcab86]

[Hiramhaus]

I found the KAE brand with the number from the pics you gave me above. It will be here Thursday morning. Tonight I'll give that horn relay a shot at it as my horn does work.

I need to grow my neck out or something - getting under there to see anything seems nearly impossible, my arm is always in the way and I need my arm to grab the relay.
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[kamzcab86]

[Hiramhaus]

HONK HONK HONK HONK

horn relay works fine

I revved it up just fine, i got a bunk relay
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[kamzcab86]

[crsmp5]

get ride of kneebar and add mk1 jetta cubbies... then it comes off with 4 easy to get to screws... fusebox in wide open...

80 only jetta door panels in my 84 coupe... if you wonder bout the odd white stripe.. panel goes from glass to bottom of door.. vs the 2 part kind they went too

see relay on fuse box? thats a ce2 set up i had in a 81 jetta why hard to see
except grey relay. fuses were pointed down.. i had a cage in the car and the cubbies no fit.. but unique option/different look

no cubbies required in above pic due to

filling the gap the knee bar makes... early german rocco/bunny-option... if you have ac get one for ac so has ashtray/lighter there if you require.. id add lighter and keep cubby as perfect spot for cell phone... will have to trim a non ac one to fit a ac heater box... only plastic.. use og one as template on where to cut..

lots of wtf is that in those pics... feel free to ask... my cars.. my creations..
_________________
[url=http://cdn2.driiive.com/7037.jpg]Click to view image[/url]

[Butcher]

[kamzcab86]

[Hiramhaus]

How long / far can a guy drive worth a jumper in? I'm thinking for now it needs a switch in the middle now.

The second carefully ordered relay was no good. I have another coming tomorrow but have little faith.

I'm hoping to go 180 miles round trip this weekend and order one long distance to get a proper one.

Any opinion (I know to not leave the pump running - that killed my last one)
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[Hiramhaus]

And the new one was wrong, going to order the long distance one. I made the drive up 90 miles to go.
_________________
1969 Ghia
2016 Audi Q3

[ps2375]

The thing with the jumper is to remember it is in there when you shut the car off and get out. If you forget about it, you have a good chance of draining the battery if you leave it for a long enough period of time with the pump running.