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1300 problem diagnosis needed
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 8:44 pm    Post subject: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

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1300 engine, dual port, new 30pict 1 carb, mechanical advance dist with built in electronic ignition.

Running poorly. Idle speed wanders 750-850 RPM. Sometimes stalls on deceleration. Seems to be low on power. Also an oil leak on right side which doesn't appear to be pushrod tubes.

Spark plugs in picture shows left bank-3,4- a beautiful reddish brown. Right bank, 1 is pure white and 2 is pure black. Like 1 is running way too hot and 2 perhaps too rich. The plug is just black, not filled with gunk like burning oil.

Compression 1-90, 2-90, 3-100, 4-105
Vacuum gage oscillates 14-16
Max advance set at 28 BTC. Max is reached about 2300 RPM

Can anyone give me a clue what the problem could be?
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luvthemvws
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

I think the intake valve on #1 is stuck open. The #1 cylinder thus force-feeds #2 and makes it appear too rich. Also, pushing cylinder pressure up the intake valve stem and leading to leaks.
Pull the 1-2 valve cover and turn the engine with a wrench (ignition off). Watch carefully the movement of all rockers and valves on that side for equal movement.
Rock on.
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 2:05 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

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Thank you very much. I think you nailed it except that the problem seems to be a crack under the valve rather than a sticking valve. There is a crack from the intake to the exhaust valves where they are closest together. There is also a crack running down the spark plug threads. Anyway, a replacement head is in order.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It looks like number 1 may have been leaking around the joint with the cylinder. At least, the top of the cylinder has wet oil on it which number 2 doesn't.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

They both appear to have been leaking at the crankcase end. That would likely be the source of the baby marking her spot when parked. I read elsewhere (Muir update) that blue silicone sealant is the best thing to use at the crankcase end as opposed to the paper gasket. Is it reasonable to apply a bead of sealant without removing the piston from the cylinder completely?

On the other hand, it would be nice to get the cylinders out to get them clean. If so, is it better to remove the pistons from the cylinder or to slide them out enough to pull the wrist pins? There isn't much ridge at the top, so I assume there isn't much at the bottom. I don't think there are many hours on the rebuild.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And finally, any advice on finding a replacement head? There is a casting number in the top 113 101 375 A and 20. Is this sufficient for identifying a replacement head?
I really appreciate the help. I've never been this deep into a VW before.
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tobiasax
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 11:51 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

These cracks are rather common. Many people have them on good running engines without knowing.

The cheap solution would be to re-tightsen the heads and see what happens.
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:11 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

But this isn't a "good running engine". Something is wrong.
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 3:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

Followup. I installed a new head. In the process found that the previous rebuilder had a copper sealing ring under cylinder 2 but none under 1 which left one cylinder higher than the other! I removed the ring and sealed the bottoms with Formagasket 3. I ran it a bit and started a tuneup. Valves adjusted, check compression. #1 120, #2 118. Plugs look same as before. #1 white, #2 black! I guess I eliminated a lot of possibilities. I swapped plugs left to right, on the unreasonable chance it was a spark plug problem.

It seems that for some reason cyl 1 is getting a lean mix and 2 is getting a rich one. Beats me how this is happening. An air leak could cause the lean, but wouldn't explain the rich.

Anybody have a clue where to look? Thanks,
storm
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RolandD
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

What exhaust are you running?

Crazy Roland
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

Simple dual exhaust. The left bank-the good one- has started backfiring some on decelleration
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RolandD
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

Like an old dune buggy? Not a 4 -into -1 and then a split into 2?

If like a dune buggy, what is the chance there is a restriction on the bad side?

Crazy Roland
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vwjetboat
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

intake cracked between heat riser and intake part? only seen that once.. but there was a crack behind the intake between the tubes .. only found when off and had to look real hard..
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 5:22 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

The saga continues. 1300 engine, dual port, new 30pict 1 carb, through an adapter. I installed a new vacuum advanced distributor and my timing light shows it is working. Compression test- all 110-115. As a result of previous problems, the right head was replaced and it may not be exactly the same as the left one.

If I short out the plug for cyl 1 or 2 the idle speed drops drastically. Shorting out 3 or 4 has no effect! The plugs for 3 and 4 are each the beautiful tan I would look for in a good running engine. 1 and 2 are the black of a too rich mixture. The exhaust from the left bank is noticeably cooler than the right and has less volume.

Since this would possibly be the result of a vacuum leak, I sprayed starting fluid on the intake manifold which had no effect.
As expected, the engine runs poorly.

Anyone have a suggestion what should be checked next?
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 4:25 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

1-4-3-2?
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 10:49 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

Slow 1200,
Thanks. As I thought over your answer I realized that interchanging leads to plugs 3 and 4 might cause all that I am seeing. I went with mixed emotions to check. If you are right, the fix is easy and I'm a dummy. If you are not right, I was not that stupid; but the car isn't fixed. So, I'm glad or sorry to report that it is wired correctly. Smile Sad I really want to thank you for making the effort. It was a great solution, just not correct this time. I also checked for tracking in the distributor cap and found none.

Still looking for ideas.
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earthquake
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

How are the rubber boots between the intake and the end housings, they seem to crack on mine all the time. Must be the southern Nevada heat.

Casey
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 11:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

Stormc wrote:
Slow 1200,
Thanks. As I thought over your answer I realized that interchanging leads to plugs 3 and 4 might cause all that I am seeing. I went with mixed emotions to check. If you are right, the fix is easy and I'm a dummy. If you are not right, I was not that stupid; but the car isn't fixed. So, I'm glad or sorry to report that it is wired correctly. Smile Sad I really want to thank you for making the effort. It was a great solution, just not correct this time. I also checked for tracking in the distributor cap and found none.

Still looking for ideas.


too bad! hope you find the culprit
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Stormc
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

earthquake wrote:
How are the rubber boots between the intake and the end housings, they seem to crack on mine all the time. Must be the southern Nevada heat.

Casey

I attempted to check that by spraying starting ether on them. I did pretty much the whole intake and detected no change. Someone else observed a crack in the intake and I wanted to check for that as well.

Why the best-looking plugs are in the cylinders that seem to be non-contributors is what is mystifying me. I can't even decide if it is fuel or electrical, but I'm leaning toward fuel.
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:00 am    Post subject: Re: 1300 problem diagnosis needed Reply with quote

If the center-section of the intake manifold is not properly inserted and lined up with the end-castings, it can trap fuel, would match your symptoms. Have seen it once or twice.
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