Type 4 Building Tools

[bugguy1967]

I have pretty much every building/blueprinting tool I need for T1s, but very little for T4. I have a 2.7 liter that's going together, and I need to know what's out there to buy, and what I need to make.

I don't have a complete block to be able to check btw...

So far, I've made myself a new deck height tool. I saw a pic of some production ones, but had no info on where to buy it, so I just made a high quality one myself. I know I need a lexan chamber cc tool to go with my burette. I can make that easily.

What about the distributor drive? Does the T1 tool remove/install it?

Piston ring compressor? Any favored brands for those? I'm sure I could find one, since American V8s have 4"+.

Relief piston remover? Will my T1 one work?

I think my regular imput shaft tool will work, since I'm doing a T1 conversion flywheel?

Valve spring installer/remover. Don't think my T1 bench mounted one will work. Anybody have a link to a homemade T4 tool? Or one to purchase?

Anything else I'm missing?

[KTPhil]

Type 4 building tools, hmmm...

Type 1:

Type 2:

Type 3:

What is a Type 4 building?

[nextgen]

The Forth photo would be an Armored Fort.

As for tools there are many T-4 guys here like Ray and myself, but for the real T-4 bees nest go to the T-4 fourm. There you will find a lot of european T-4 guys that have built real monster size engines that are built to last daily drivers.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=1

I go back and forth for my info. between the two NG's a lot of experience at both sites.
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[raygreenwood]

There are not really any type 4 engine specific tools I can think of.

Believe it or not.....this valve spring tool with a little tweaking to the metal valve support blocks in the combustion chamber.....works very well on type 4 heads.

If you only have worked on a small amount of type 1 engines for yourself and not as a business.....you probably do not own a dial bore gauge. This usually is not a problem for the build an engine every 5 years person.....because 90% just have the crank bore align bored and buy the next oversized bearing up.

On type 4 work....because its more rare to need align bore unless its a hard driven/thrashed bus motor....and....quality in main bearings has been up and down.....you really need to have a dial bore gauge to make sure everything is correct before and after selecting bearings.

For occasional usage.....you can get away with a chinese dial bore gauge set......but.....buy a GOOD dial indicator to use with it. The contact points on the Chinese dial bore sets are not hard enough for daily use if you are in the engine building business....but....for building the occasional engine.....with an accurate gauge installed in the tool.....they are just as accurate.

Ring compressors? I only work on my own stuff lately....so I only mess with 1 size and its first oversize. If you only work on 1 or 2 sizes....buy a tapered bore, cone type ring compressor if you can. I have one that fits 90mm for 1.7L work. It was either Powerhouse brand or ARP. The ARP are the best.

Ray

[Multi69s]

For the valve spring compressor I use my T1 unit, but I carve out the combustion chamber block out off a piece of hard wood. As for a ring compressor, if you use the pliers type, you can make the band out of 18 gauge sheet metal.
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[raygreenwood]

[nsracing]

There are special tools for Type IV?

My C-clamp style spring compressor works on any head. I have a corrugated sytle adjustable piston rings compressor - it will do any size.

My dial indicator really does not care what engine it is to check endplay.

A torque wrench is a torque wrench.

[bugguy1967]

Ray, thanks. I have two dial bore gauges for both the mains and cam bores. I use them for the rod big ends and cylinders. I have a Jegs rod bolt stretch gauge. Oh, two depth gauge sets, telespoing bore gauges, Ohaus scales, a magnetic dial indicator, yadayada... I have all the inside mics I need too. I fully blueprint T1 engines.

My Schley gear puller does T4 gear sets. I realized my cam degreeing tool's hub won't work with the T4 crank snout, so I'll need to machine a new one.

[bugguy1967]

Here's the deck height tool: It costs $30 in parts. Still need to make the spacers, but not sure how far the studs stick past the barrels on average.

The pistons and cylinders will cost about $1200, so I'll use the best ring compressor I can afford.

[modok]

I have built several, didn't need any different tools.

At home for spring compressor I use a WOOD angle plate, on drill press.
It works for most types heads, unless heavily canted valves.

Why need pullers for oil valves and dist drive? are they rusted solid?

[nsracing]

I will add though that I did machine a puller yoke for the crank gears -they are 411 mains for way larger than Type I. Other than this difference, all same tools.

[bugguy1967]

For installing/removing. It'll likely go together and come apart a couple times during mock-ups. I use my T1 drive gear remover to install the drive as well. Same with the pressure valve remover.

[overdrive]

Are you sure it's a type 4 your working on ?. The type 4 oil presser relief valve is a lot smaller then a type 1.

A type 1 tool would never work

[modok]

[modok]

Just kidding.... I know your not a hack
But it is a true story!

[bugguy1967]

[overdrive]

[bugguy1967]

That was in response to Modok's question about the need to use pullers. I was stating that I not only use the tools to pull, but to install as well.

So it seems like I need to make a tool for the pressure piston. Preferrably something permanent, as I plan on building more T4/914s.

[nsracing]

To install the plunger/s, just drop that sucker in the hole ...followed by the springs.

The bore should be clean the plunger just slides in there. NO TOOL.

For tightening the plunger cover, I use an screwdriver-type impact tool w/ large flat tip on it. This is the only way I found to keep it tight against the washer.

[raygreenwood]