1976 Kombis restoration - Help needed for VACUUM system

[megavolts]

Last October, just before Winter came in Alaska, I bought a '76 VW kombis in North Pole. The snow felt a couple of days after I moved it in my yard iN Fairbanks. For the next couple of month Aegi, the name of the bus, has been sitting under the snow. Aegi, as the spelling of the acronym AG, in reference to the Aleutian Green of those eponymous Islands.

Aegi under the snow, outside temperature close to -30F

According to his ID and the m-plate decoder, Aegi was born on October 13, 1975, following is full identity for reference:
- Chassis number : 2262038773
- Engine : type 4, GD005689 FI.
- Manual transmission
- Original color : pastel white (up) and sage green (below)

I am lucky enough that my landlord repaired years ago a '72 kombis, and since he moved in Alaska more than 10 years ago he bought another bus from '79 and installed a Subaru Engine inside. When I told him I bought a bus, he was so happy, that during the winter he proposed to me to move the bus to his place to be able to use his tools and take advantage of his advice. Since I have been reading all the documentation available (workshop manual, Bentley...). I am hoping to keep the fuel injection system, which seems to be more reliable in cold climate than a carburetor and its associated frosting.

Spring time in Alaska

Moving Aegi with Matthew

Two weeks ago, I moved Aegi to my landlord place. It was the only rain day we had over the past month. Lots of fun, not to warm, the operation took less than half a day. The thursday after, my landlord - which I am going to call BJ - and I cleaned the battery connector, installed new spark plugs and cable, pour a little bit of gas in the tank, timed the distributor and the engine and then turn the key. Yap, nothing great happens, and now the fun works begins.

Aegi and the BJ's modified VW, note the radiator in the front for the subaru engine.

Finally, about me, I am just graduate student at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, and I am hoping to restore Aegi with the most care as I can afford. As you probably know Alaska isn't consider as part of the Continental US and after looking online, shipping costs are going to kill me. I will go for original piece when critical, but I will go for locally available piece when possible. I also got the chance to count in my friend an amazing guy, who is working for mechanical workshop the Geophysical Institute, and almost every year goes to the Antarctica as field mechanics and problem solver. Dale is a veritable legend on the field http://glacieradventures.blogspot.com/2013/01/master-driller-dale.html. I think I am in good hands, but I will need lots of other advice and I count on you.[/url]


For the French speaking people you can read about my adventure in Alaska, and now with Aegi here https://aroundasphere.megavolts.ch

Updates:
I will update the title on a regular basis, highlighting the subject I need help with, and keep track of the solved issue.
20170622 - Vacuum system help needed, not solved

[megavolts]

Since I moved the bus to my landlord, I have been doing some progress. When we tried starting the engine, nothing happens, but the engine was cranking.

Last known working condition
By the way, the information I got from the previous owner is that the engine quite working when they were driving 5 years ago. If that may help.

Fuel Line
As I did not hear the fuel pump and the spark plugs were still dry, I checked the fuel line, dismantling pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. Both fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator works:
- Pressure of 36 PSI in the fuel line when fuel pump is in line with fuel pressure regulator
- Fuel output of about 500 ml in 30 seconds
- clean injector
I am going to replace the fuel line hose, not with the original 7mm, but with some Arctic Fuel Line, rated at -60F and more than 50PSI of 1/4. Also I am going to replace the injector seals and once the ECU will be properly working check the spray pattern. Here is a picture of the clean pieces:

Vacuum circuit
Lots of hose of the vacuum circuit were disconnected and as they were falling apart I decided to change them all. I follow the official handbooks as well as the description of Ratwell http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses.html. Once I will be clear about the vacuum circuit I will update Ratwell's schematic, diameter and length. When dismantling the circuit I took note of the different connections.

Currently I am running in the following issue:
- Missing vacuum connection (diameter 3mm). I am sure I am missing a couple of Tee's an 3mm connection. (picture below). I will need some help to reinstall it correctly.

- Not found any connection on the intake plenum as described by Ratwell http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses.html

- Cut and pinched metallic pipe near the throttle body (picture below, red circled part). According to the VW official service guide, the pipe should connect with the EGR valve, that I was still not able to locate in the engine compartment. According to the presence of the EGR pipe. I should have DVDA vacuum hose system, but there is only a vacuum inlet/outlet on the vacuum advance near to the distributor. My guess is my engine was probably modified to be SVDA without EGR. I probably will need to follow the SVDA vacuum hose system described here http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses/VacuumLines_76.5_to_78.jpg rather than the DVDA http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses/VacuumLines_to_76.5.jpg. Also I was wondering if I will be able to start the engine with the pinched pipe and possibly without the EGR circuit ?

Air intake manifold
The next step I took is to dismantle the air intake manifold and the throttle body. The goal is to clean the engine compartment, get access to the firewall to check the gas tank breather, check the electric connection and clean the throttle body. I remove without any trouble the four air intake distributors, but I have a few issue to remove the manifold. Anybody know with how many screw it is hold to the crankcase ? I removed the one the manual told me.

Double relay
I have been starting some electronic work with the double relay, following this excellent blog post https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=334340, may Amskeptic be praised, and the L-Jetronic handbook of VW. So far the relay is powered with the both key turned on ignition and start, but I wasn't able to hear any clicking of the relay and I measure almost no voltage between terminal 85 and 88b neither while running the starter or ignition turned to running. I read later that I may have to manually open the flap in the air intake - I did not to that yet -. Is this definitively required in order to make the relay switch state and turn the pump on ? Or should I just order a new relay, without asking so many question ?

To do
- cleaning engine
- checking FI sensors, ECU and double relay[/b]

Any comment or suggestion are more than welcome.

[KentABQ]

Welcome to The Samba!

Wow, megavolts. That was a great start for your rebuild thread. Very well stated, and good job posting the pics. I'm sure there will be lots of Sambanistas giving you some good advice very soon. Since I'm relatively new to the ACVW world, I'll be learning from your experience too.

Good luck with your new find! It's going to be a great bus when you get it up and running.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[KentABQ]

By the way, here is a great manual for troubleshooting fuel injection components...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_f...Manual.pdf
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[megavolts]

In the following post, I will list the resources I have been using to restore a '76 bus with Fuel Injection

Manual and handbook
VW bus Official Service Manualhttps://juliorestrepo.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/...ingles.pdf
L-Jetronic VW workshop manual > http://www.realtechsupport.org/UB/I2C/VW_L-Jetronic_Fuel_Injection_Workshop_Manual.pdf
A.F.C. Control System > https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_f...Manual.pdf (Air Flow Control)
1976 Manual Owner > https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/76bus/1976_Bus_Owners_Manual.pdf

Threads
Fuel Injection
Double Relay
How does it works? https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=334340
_________________
Aegi, VW Kombis 1976 : "not running yet, but running strong soon"

[raygreenwood]

A quick note....your "arctic fuel line" should be rated to a minimum of about double the maximum working pressure of your pump. If you run over a rock, accidentally put the jack in the wrong place and crimp a line or get a kink in a hose....the fuel pressure on that pump in your pictures can instantly hit 75-100 psi.

Also... in Fairbanks Alaska you are on average about -20 to -30 peak right?...bear in mind that standard Gates barricade R13 fuel injection hose is good to a constant working temp of -40F and up to 275F.

That may not be cold enough for you. Just check your hose rated pressure. If its not for fuel injection...do not use it. Ray

[Spike0180]

Just a thought, but if you have the room you may want to consider just taking the engine out of the bus and plopping it on a workbench. You'll have a lot more access and it will be much easier to clean. I'd chime in on other things, but I have yet to get my hands wet with the FI system.

Welcome to TheSamba!
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[JP6210]

Hi Megavolt- I'll jump in here, but I am a rank beginner compared to a lot of folks here...

I have the same setup- mine should be a DVDA distributor, but I have not been able to find one, and the SVDA has been fine- I followed Ratwells diagram for SVDA.

The vacuum connection on your plenum is at the very lower left of the plenum in your picture. If looking at the engine from the rear hatch, it will be closest to you and on the left- that connection feeds a couple of things including your brake booster.

It may be worthwhile to send your injectors into Cruzin or Witchhunter for cleaning and testing- it adds some peace of mind and you have new parts and performance data.

Remember to replace all fuel lines while you are doing the work, including the vent lines.

You will be fine without the EGR- I have yet to see a bus in person that still has one. I made a blockoff plate to get rid of the pinched off pipe on mine.

Finally- as you troubleshoot the fuel injection, keep in mind the wiring harness for the FI can cause frustrating and intermittent problems- mine caused me issues after I removed and put back on- the flexing of it caused some cracks in the insulation under the wrap which were hard to track down. I went with a new harness from Kyle- (you can search here for info) or there are some great instructions for building your own. The FI is a great system, but depends on consistent voltages to operate correctly.

Good looking bus and beautiful scenery- welcome to the Samba!

JP
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'76 Chrome Yellow Westy "Tallula"

[megavolts]

Hi All,

Thanks for your answers.

@Ray, I double check, the Arctic Fuel Line are rated up to 400F and more than 100 psi. I was looking into the Gates barricade R13, but I will need to order them out of town, and cost double. As I say in the introduction post, I may go for local and slightly cheaper.

@Spike0180, I thought about that. For now I will stick with the engine remaining in the car and see if I can get something out of it. My hope is to be able to get a few miles around town this summer and plop out the engine next winter.

@JP6210, thanks for the info about the SVDA and EGR. I will look into checking my injectors after I made a first self inspection by myself. Fuel line are on the top of the list, as well as the vent lines as I read enough stories about VW engines engulf in fire. P.S. One the bus will go on road trip, the scenery will be truly beautiful.
_________________
Aegi, VW Kombis 1976 : "not running yet, but running strong soon"