Clicking when starting

[Terry Tigers]

I have a 74 Super Beetle with a starting problem. There are times when the bug starts up flawlessly and other times it just clicks when the key is turned. I had a new key switch and starter installed but the problem still seems to exist. The weather (hot or cold) do not seems to make a big difference in starting. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Cusser]

[60ragtop]

being it is a 74 with the seat belt interlock, has that been bypassed?
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[ashman40]

Find the #50 junction below the rear seat (marked "Starter Wire" in pic below).

Disconnect the wire coming from the side of the car (right side of the above pic) and test the end of the wire for 12v when you turn the ignition key to START. If you get a reading less than 12.0v you have low voltage. The suggestions above to clean connections will help bring the voltage back up to spec. This is the problem with using wiring that is over 40-years old. Resistance builds up in the long wire runs. The starter solenoid #50 is one of the longest runs.

If your voltage reading is less than 12v but is always above 5v you could install a "hard start relay".
If the voltage fluctuates and sometimes you get zero volts, you need to check the ignition switch or the wiring. Run this test up under the dash where the red/black #50 wire connects to the ignition switch. If you get fluctuating voltage AT the ignition switch plug then it is the switch. If it is a solid 12v up here then it is the wiring between the ignition switch and the junction under the rear seat.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Terry Tigers]

The key switch was replaced because the original one was bad. Someone had installed a push button starter in the switch line. All the work was done by a local mechanic. He also replaced the starter. He said it had a bent shaft. Will check the connections and have the battery tested. The battery is the original one in the bug when I bought it 3 years ago.

[Cusser]

[11Bravo]

Before you start throwing more parts in, find the problem. Battery voltage and amp hours with good connections as stated are critical.
Now you say it clicks, or does the starter spin and not turn the engine. If you hear a spinning carry a large adjustable wrench or a 1-3/16" box wrench and when it acts up turn your crank pulley half way around and try again. This would show you have a problem with your ring gear.
If it just clicks (and battery and connections good), try oldskool and tap the solenoid with a light hammer. Seems crude but I got many cars going in the 50s and 60s this way. Also to test the switch, by pass it by a hot wiring which I did for a living when young. On American cars short the solenoid right to the heavy wire on the starter, we used to do it with a screw driver. A jumper wire for a VW.
And yes I used to get paid well for hot wiring cars and trucks, before locking steering wheels and computers
_________________
75 Le Grande with a 72 1600 DP
Air cooled 1000cc mud motor on a 18 footer
Air cooled 500cc flat 4 VW style, Military generator
Click to view image

[VW_Jimbo]

You can test the 50 circuit (starter feed) circuit easily. Put the car in neutral with the key on. Put the ebrake on. Take a 10 gauge piece of wire. Take apart the connector under the back seat with the red/ black wires in it. Then take that 10 gauge wire you have and connect the red/black wire going to the starter motor with it (at that connector you pulled apart). Then touch the battery positive with the other end. That starter should engage and spin, so long as you hold that wire to the battery positive.

If it works flawlessly every time, you have a voltage drop in the circuit between the battery and this connector. This circuit is originates at the battery, goes to the light switch, iginition switch, connector and then starter.

Start testing working backwards.
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[David_nc_72std]

If you have replacement terminals on the battery cables those can corrode underneath the clamp where the wire is attached. I've also had a similar problem caused by corrosion on the inside of the terminals where they clamp onto the battery posts.