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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
Does anyone have a photo of the warning label that is on the center of the dash from a 77 Westy?
I see WW has them, but am trying to see how "accurate" they are - as the Delta Six labels are pretty off.

Also, my original dash was pretty chewed up. I scored one on a trade for some wheels and tires but the holes that were there for switches were in a bit of a different order.
Without my having to dril more holes is it totally weird that I'm planning to put my rear dog, rear defroster, and gas heater switches to the right side of the dash? Other than the order of the holes the padded part is in great shape.


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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks TCadh!!!

KentPS wrote:

Putting a dog's butt on the dash officially qualifies as weird, yes. Laughing


Gotta love that auto correct! Ha


Next question!
I did a dash swap this weekend - I didn't disconnect the switches I just removed the bezels and separated the whole switch from the dash.

After, I realized that something must have come loose - as I now have this white wire with a black stripe hanging down. Does anyone know where it goes?


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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

^

White wore with a black stripe...

Anyone? Crying or Very sad
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

There are both white/black and gray/black wires in the dash area. The white/black wire for the headlights is pretty robust compared to the gray/black wires. This is the '79 drawing from the archives, the 77-78 drawings shows the same gray/black wires as being white/black.


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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm sorry to say, I don't know how to read those style schematics. Sad

Is there a way to tell what this is? I will look again to see if it seems white, or gray - but is there something that otherwise would identify what this is?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
I'm sorry to say, I don't know how to read those style schematics. Sad

Whew! I thought I was the only one on the Samba who gets confused with them. It takes me a while, but I can usually stumble my way thru by comparing the schematic to what's in the van. But it's going to be a while before I get comfortable with it.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
I'm sorry to say, I don't know how to read those style schematics. Sad

Is there a way to tell what this is? I will look again to see if it seems white, or gray - but is there something that otherwise would identify what this is?

Well then it's time to learn, positive at the top, ground along the bottom, switches, motors or lights in between, find the grey/black wires and see where they go.

As for what your wire does?, have you performed a check on the bus to see what doesn't work?, WT's provided some hints as to what things to look at first.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
I'm sorry to say, I don't know how to read those style schematics. Sad


Wildthings wrote:

Basically the wires running horizontally across the top of the diagram are the main 12volt power wires of the system, i.e. the red battery (B+ or #30) wire which is always hot and the black #15 wire which is switched power from the ignition switch. While the line across the bottom is the body ground. Power always flows from the top to the bottom through any given circuit. The numbers below the ground line at the bottom identify each circuit, in colored diagrams these numbers are highlighted in yellow.

In the diagram below if you want to trouble shoot the oil pressure switch and light, you go to the legend on the right and find that the oil pressure switch is designated F1 and is shown on current track #39. Now you look along the bottom of the diagram for current track #39, where you will find the oil pressure warning light (K3) and the oil pressure switch (F1) connected by a blue wire with a green stripe. Power to the K3 light comes with the #11 fuse via the black wire above it, which can then be traced back to the #15 terminal on the ignition switch (D).

This link from the Samba technical section is also helpful:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/Un...l_2003.pdf


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obnoxiousblue
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

You guys rock.
Ok. So, this is making sense now. On the diagram for my year bus I found two gray wires with black stripes. One was for the door buzzer which works - so I moved on. I also found one for the drivers side tail light - which I now see is not working! This all on track 28 from S1 to M4.
I see the chart says "S1 to S12 : To Fuse Box" and M4 is the left tail light.
I assume this wire has to go into the fuse box somewhere. Is it safe to assume that it goes to the first fuse position as the fuse chart says "1" is for the tail light left?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Track 28 shows the grey/black connecting to fuse #1 (S1), sounds like you've found the problem.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The fuses are numbered S1 to S12 starting on the left side of the box.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I can always count on you guys!
Will tinker tomorrow after work and report back!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="busdaddy"]
rustbus wrote:
donemoto wrote:
While taking the gas tank out of my 78 bus; I pulled the 2 wires off the fuel guage; not looking at the colour of the wires. After treating the tank; and putting it back in place;, I only found 2 brown wires.

I put the short grounded wire on the ground tab; and the longer shielded harness brown wire only the other enclosed male tab(sitting on top of the fuel guage.

Is this right? Somehow I thought it would be more natural to a positive black or red wire beside the ground.

I looked in the Bentley and it showed the brown wire. So this is really a stupid question, But, then, I would like to know before I button it up.



So I guess I was impatient when putting my bus together, and did not plug in the sender when the firewall was out, etc... Now I'm trying to find the wires for it through the access hole the PO created... Any tips? Where do they come from/go to? Thinking of bending a coat hanger and trying to do some fishing for it... I think one comes from the passenger side - not certain. Anyone have the answer? Bus is a 1976. Thanks!!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="GfunkBus76"]
busdaddy wrote:
rustbus wrote:
donemoto wrote:
While taking the gas tank out of my 78 bus; I pulled the 2 wires off the fuel guage; not looking at the colour of the wires. After treating the tank; and putting it back in place;, I only found 2 brown wires.

I put the short grounded wire on the ground tab; and the longer shielded harness brown wire only the other enclosed male tab(sitting on top of the fuel guage.

Is this right? Somehow I thought it would be more natural to a positive black or red wire beside the ground.

I looked in the Bentley and it showed the brown wire. So this is really a stupid question, But, then, I would like to know before I button it up.



So I guess I was impatient when putting my bus together, and did not plug in the sender when the firewall was out, etc... Now I'm trying to find the wires for it through the access hole the PO created... Any tips? Where do they come from/go to? Thinking of bending a coat hanger and trying to do some fishing for it... I think one comes from the passenger side - not certain. Anyone have the answer? Bus is a 1976. Thanks!!

On a 76 it comes out of the tank bay floor beneath the filler neck on the tank, happy fishing!
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 12:19 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
airkooledchris wrote:
I've never had to replace a speedometer cable in any of my VW's before. I guess I got lucky.

Anyway, mine has the EGR box in the middle and the lower cable snapped. I checked around and only Busdepot had it listed as being in stock. After a few days post ordering it I got the email saying it wasn't really in stock, which I just LOVE. ugh. Don't list stuff you don't actually have, it just makes me think of shopping elsewhere first whenever possible .

Anyway, I sucked it up and ordered the one piece unit. I swapped it in and buttoned it up. It's pretty straightforward of a job, but the stupid thing is all bouncy wobbly jerky. I read elsewhere that you can loosen it up a little and it'll work better that way and it does, but only a little. There's no smooth movement anymore like it used to have.

At slow speeds it just doesn't show anything (because I am going under 10MPH) and it'll randomly sweep up to 20 and drop back to the 10/0 again.

The needle of the speedometer cable that feeds into the back of the speedometer itself has these little 'teeth/grooves' on it and the original looks smooth. Are there just poorly made cables that behave this way or is there something in the install process that im missing and causing this behavior?

thanks for any tips, suggestions or misc tomfoolery.

Could be a few things, if the tip of the cable is too long it may be pushing the guts of the speedo towards the glass, they don't last long like that, with it unscrewed or with the clip held open gently seat the outer sheath against the instrument, any springyness or resistance the last few mm like the inner cable is bottoming out? Shorten it with a Dremel if it is.
Bouncing needle could also be a kink in the cable or a dry spot where it's binding, pull the inner cable out from the hubcap end and inspect it for bends and lube. The ridges sound like the new inner cable isn't wound from as fine a wire as the OG version, the end is mashed into that square profile with a presslike tool, as long as it's square and fits into the hole in the instrument it doesn't matter.



I ended up lubricating the cable really well, but had the same issues with seating it into the back of the speedo so I went ahead and trimmed a bit off of the end. I also smoothed out the edges a little bit, as it was difficult to seat properly with them on. It's been working nice and smooth like it did originally.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hey guys, I haven't been here in a while. Back in November I took the motor out of my bus for what I thought would only be fixing an oil leak and ended up being a full engine rebuild. Motor went back in earlier this week and that all seems to be fine but since the car sat so long I do now have a brake issue. When I first went for my test drive things seemed ok but as I drove more and used the brakes a bit more the front brakes almost seem to have become seized. I plan to take off the front drums and inspect whats going on but I was reading that it could be the flexible brake lines went bad.

This leads me to my question. I know if the world of brake performance on other more modern cars stainless flexible lines can give an improved feel but do they make any sort of difference on drum brakes on an old bus? If it really isn't a difference then I will probably just go with generic rubber ones but I wanted to ask you guys first.

Edit: Also important note. I replaced the master, every wheel cylinder, shoes, and metal hard lines when I bought the bus about 2 years ago. I did not however replace the rubber hoses at the time because they looked fine but almost everything else was replaced. Does my issue sound indicative of poor quality front wheel cylinders?
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

FWIW, I just replaced the 10-12 year old rubber brake hoses on my 83 1/2 Vanagon with stainless steel hoses (from VanCafe) and could notice no difference in the braking at all, the pedal was the same as before, not firmer and not softer.

If you have 40+ year old hoses then you can expect an improvement whether you replace them with standard rubber hoses or SS hoses.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
FWIW, I just replaced the 10-12 year old rubber brake hoses on my 83 1/2 Vanagon with stainless steel hoses (from VanCafe) and could notice no difference in the braking at all, the pedal was the same as before, not firmer and not softer.

If you have 40+ year old hoses then you can expect an improvement whether you replace them with standard rubber hoses or SS hoses.


The hoses aren't 40+ years old. The previous owner did seem to have changed them at some time and they looked new enough that that was the one component I didn't replace but now I am questioning how old those hoses are. I think regardless of what my brake issue is I will be changing out all the rubber hoses.

Thanks for letting me know about the vanagon anecdote. I had a sneaking feeling that they wouldn't make much / any difference. I will most likely be going with new rubber hoses all around.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does anyone know what size the metal hole is in the dash that receives the little metal screw-in escutcheon for the switches?
My new dash has an extra hole that was opened up for a switch that I don't have/use on my bus. I put a spare switch I had in the space just so it didn't look awkward but would like to get a threaded 1" ball mount from RAM mounts to put there so I can mount my amateur radio there without having to drill any holes into the dash - so it can be undone easily with no scarring in the future.

Id like to put it where the fog light switch is currently on my dash:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm looking at something like these:

RAM 1" Ball with 1/4-20 Male Threaded Post
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http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-237U


RAM 1/4-20 Female Threaded Hex Hole with 1" Ball
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-337U


RAM M6 x 1 Threaded Female Hole with 1" Ball
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-273-M6U


RAM M10 X 1.25 Pitch Male Thread with 1" Ball
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-349U


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-379U-252025


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-379U-252050


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-379U-252050-KAY1
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:
Does anyone know what size the metal hole is in the dash that receives the little metal screw-in escutcheon for the switches?
My new dash has an extra hole that was opened up for a switch that I don't have/use on my bus. I put a spare switch I had in the space just so it didn't look awkward but would like to get a threaded 1" ball mount from RAM mounts to put there so I can mount my amateur radio there without having to drill any holes into the dash - so it can be undone easily with no scarring in the future.

Id like to put it where the fog light switch is currently on my dash:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I am unsure of the thread/hole, but if you're going to look into replacing it with just a ball, why not look into another cig lighter for that spot? Just a suggestion
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