Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor

[heimlich]

[buguy]

If I were you I would find a way to strip most of it another way. I like to use a rotary buffer with a stiff backing pad and use 36-80 grit paper to get as much paint off as I can. Then go over it with the blasting. It will be cheaper in the long run and most rotary buffers are electric. Then you won't have to focus so long on the panels to get them blasted.

[buguy]

[heimlich]

They have 100lb bags of coal slag for even less. He said it leaves a film on the metal though.

Has anyone used the coal slag or maybe coal slag followed by glass?

[Evil_Fiz]

[buguy]

I've used Black Beauty and I never noticed any film. Who knows if it was the same thing though.

[heimlich]

I went with Goodyear 1/2 rubber hoses. I have one 25' for connection to my dryer/etc. The other is 50' for general use/sandblasting/etc.

I went with Dixon high flow 150 PSI connectors connecting everything together. I'll get some reducers to go down to the 1/4" connections to the sandblaster. Is anyone familiar with Dixon? Do they make good connectors?

[CiderGuy]

[heimlich]

I've found a local supplier for connectors. Their prices are better than Amazon which I was happy to find.

The name of the company is Midwest Hose & Specialty Inc.

http://www.midwesthose.com/

The one connector I checked a price on was the Dixon DC10. They have it for about $17 whereas Amazon is $19.

I'll get 4 DC10 (one for each end of hose). Then I need the connectors for the compressor outlet, the dryer inlet, and the dryer outlet.

[Evil_Fiz]

Here is some cost saving food for thought.

Option 1
You can use 1/2" copper tubing with a vibration loop, or better yet, a short 1/2" whip hose, 3 to 6 Ft, and connect that between the tank and your wall-mounted filter-regulator setup (conditioning Equip.) You can then hard connect either of your longer 1/2" hoses to the conditioning Equipment (least restrictive option) and put a Milton 3/8" or 1/4" V-Style connector on the equipment end of the hose. This will give you about 74 SCFM max at the tool inlet even when using the 50' x 1/2" hose.

Option 2
Same as above but add a Dixon DC9S connector after the conditioning Equip (like a DC10 but with male NPT threads.) You would then add a Dixon DCP18 1/2" male connector to one end of each of your longer 1/2" hoses and use Milton 3/8" or 1/4" V-Style connectors on the other end.

Interchangeability of Milton Connectors. - for reference purposes

A V-Male connector (74 SCFM) will not fit an M-Female coupler (~40 SCFM.)
A V-Male will only fit a V-Female
A M-Male connector can be used in a V-Female coupler or an M-Female coupler.
According to the Milton website the 1/4" and 3/8" V-Style connectors both flow 74 SCFM.

If cost is a concern, you only really have to spend the money on the female V-Style connectors and can get away with the cheaper M-Style male connectors for the tools that do not use a lot of air.

...we're all in this together.
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[heimlich]

[buguy]

That's what I did, but I coiled mine up to where I ran it along the ceiling and then down to all the places I wanted it. I also put a "T" in it near the end and 6" of pipe past it with a valve so I could open it to drain any collected water then got to the ends.

[Evil_Fiz]

[heimlich]

[heimlich]

I did my first blasting today. Set the regulator to 60 PSI and it took all of the grime off my distributor body.

One thing to mention, when you decide to turn off the compressor close the valve on the sand blaster. I didn't and media started coming out of the vent in the compressor. I am assuming it sucked it backwards.

[Evil_Fiz]

[heimlich]

[buguy]

You could do that. Just be ready to find more issues when you blast. It should work well too because you really should blast the welds before putting anything on them.

[heimlich]

I will probably blast around the area I need to patch so I can find the good metal and then patch it but I will do it one area at a time.

Is there a better way?

[theKbStockpiler]

Sand Blasting is a job you set up for as much work as possible at once. Along with a good mask I recommend wearing a Rain Poncho to keep the sand/media off of you. If you want to do small areas use phosphoric acid.

I cover areas I'm going to paint later with spray oil but you can use aerosol spray paint as well.

As far as getting moisture out of the air I have not heard of a economical effective method other than a 1,000 dollar two stage compressor. Owners of these report that they do not have a water/moisture issue. Dual use of a Tig water cooler could be a option but they run at least $150 by themselves.

I don't usually have a issue with a single stage compressors unless I'm trying to paint when the humidity is too high for painting anyways. Then you really have to use a water filter on your spray gun. If it's cold out ,air tools will ice up inside and won't operate as well.
_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.