S-Boot to crankcase breather connector replacement

[furgo]

Has anyone had any luck replacing the crumbled to rust connector from the S-Boot to the crankcase breather hose?

After ordering the right part (025 133 199), I found out that it's now made of plastic (good), but it's alltogether a different molding (not so cool). It's weird that the part was changed so radically without being revision-controled with a letter suffix, btw.

You can see it on the picture below: it's mostly the flared ends that make the connection a bit awkward. On the breather hose side, the flare makes it difficult to get the whole length of the connector into the hose, but it's on the S-Boot side where I can't see this working.

The depth of the duct at the S-Boot is 19 mm, which matches well with the original part (18 mm deep). Yet the new part has got a ca. 7 mm flare that leaves less than 11 mm in contact with the duct wall. Not so good for preventing vacuum leaks, as the connection feels a bit loose too.

Any success stories of someone having replaced it or modified it?

Right now the fit is so bad that I'm thinking of cutting the long end to match the original part's length and removing (i.e. flattening) the flare at the other end, so that when finished the two parts look the same.
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'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)

Decode your M-Plate

[Randy in Maine]

What happens if you put a few wraps of electrical tape in the gap?

[tristessa]

Use a stubby piece of 3/4" copper pipe.

3/4" copper is 7/8" OD

7/8" == 22.225MM

It should fit securely in the S-boot just from the tiny extra OD, but if you're concerned about it working loose give it a bare smear of gasket cement to help glue it in there, stuff it in the hole and walk away for 10 minutes for the goop to set up before clamping the hose back on.

Problem solved.

[raygreenwood]

Take a look on McMaster carr. You can buy 6/6 nylon tube by the foot. The 22mm size is very slightly under 7/8". That size has an ID of .75".....so wall section of 1/16th".

Or you can get it in 5/8" ID which is 1/8" wall section.five feet of this is about $18.

I would take a piece of this cut to correct length, bevel the ends/openings and score a groove around the outside where the flange is and put in an external snap ring or E-clip to make a flange.

Items like this can usually be found at most plastic supply houses. And.....if you drop by....you can usually buy for pennies....what tbey describe as "drop"....which is the scraps leftover from cutting an order to length for other customers.

In tube or rod.....most plastics houses save the scrap pieces in a box to sell to pe9ple just like us looking for bushing material. Ray

[Wildthings]

Depending on how the swages are made, you can either just saw them off or use a file or grinder to reduce their outside diameter, though I would first try to use it as is to see if it would work.

[Tcash]

Ask what diameter these are?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1906982

[furgo]

Thanks everyone for the help. From what I see, it seems not many folks, if at all, have used the new part, but there are enough alternatives:

1. Modding the original part: filing away the flare on the short end and cutting off the long end
2. Copper tube
3. Nylon tube

To answer some of the questions/replies:

[Hoody]

Get your dremel out with a cutting wheel. Wrap a piece of tape around it to make a perfect line. Cut off the flared ends, dress them with some fine sand paper. The fit is so tight that imho there is no need to get the center ribbed point inside the boot. If it concerns you you can put a light smear of rubber permatex between the ridge of the pipe and the inlet of the boot. I would not suggest using a saw of any type. It will likey break the plastic pipe before you get both flares cut off. The short side goes into the boot, cut the other side to the same length as original and it connects to the hose. It's that simple and it will last forever. Hope this helps.

[Sprink1es]

I had the opposite problem. Metal connector was fine, but PO put a crappy radiator hose (where part #18 is) and it was collapsed/pinched in the elbow. I finally found a remedy on Amazon and made my own out of 2 hoses... but I'll bookmark this in case the connector ever goes bad

[Wildthings]

How about this? Put the long end into the boot, the swage should fit all the way in and prevent the fitting from ever accidentally coming out. Do whatever you feel is necessary to the short end to get the hose to fit well: grind the swage down, use a spring clamp on the hose, etc.

[Hoody]

The problem is you can't get the swage into the boot. I did not even try to get the intended center raised ring into the boot. The fit is incredibly tight. Using a GEEBEE or good original hose requires no clamps. The reason VW did not use clamps on this hose and the L shaped hose was because they were intended to "blow off" in the event of a large backfire. If they are clamped they can and will destroy your AFM.

[furgo]

[furgo]

Well I ended up modding the plastic VW part I had gotten, as it seemed to me the easiest option since I already had it.

Here's what it looks like after having cut it to size and filed off the swage:

Some remains of the swage are still there, but they shouldn't make a difference and I had to stop filing at some point, so I left it at there.

As expected, the new part locks into the S-Boot, slightly better than the rusted metallic pipe:

And fits well to the breather hose too:

No more rust!

Next step: fixing the small inside cracks in the breather hose, but that's another topic...
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'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)

Decode your M-Plate

[Gregg in the 603]

The pipe is supposed to slot inside the hole, with the ridge riding inside the lip internally. The ridge is not meant as a stopper for the pipe.
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1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
Dirty Dover, NH

[furgo]

[SGKent]

the ridge goes in the slot in the S-boot for it.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[furgo]

Finally a flat, blunt screwdriver and abundant cursing did it:

Thanks everyone, I'm glad I posted the pictures and someone noticed the connector pipe needed the extra push!

Now I'm not looking forward to doing the same for the Y piece on the other S-boot port just above...
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'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)

Decode your M-Plate

[airschooled]

I like boiling a pot of water then removing it from heat, and then placing the s-boot in the water once the bubbles are gone. Give it a few minutes, extract it with tongs, and have gloves on. The "chimney" and "Y" will slide right in. Allow to air dry before sealing the cracks and painting if you're that kind of person.

I used to use grease before I learned that certain greases will cause harm in the long term to certain rubber compounds.

Robbie
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