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heimlich 
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 6592
Location: Houston, Texas
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 Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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If I cover it with spray paint won't I need to take it off again later? My plan was to get some epoxy primer and paint it when done blasting.
It doesn't get cold here that much. I was wearing shorts the past two winters.
My main concern is the water when I primer. I plan on getting a water, air, and oil filter as Evil_Fiz recommended. |
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theKbStockpiler
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Rust Belt
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| Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:51 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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There's one scenario where you will get advice that no time can be taken between operations of bodywork like sandblasting and welding but it's not practical for a one person DIY job. If you prime the body immediately after blasting the primer has to come off for welding ,as an example.
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Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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heimlich
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 6592
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:53 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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I never got the sandblaster to work perfectly but I was always spraying small parts. Got a blast cabinet so I could reuse the media.
EvilFiz recommended pneumatics plus and I eventually tried it out. It made a world of difference with the water in the line. I suspect it will help with the blaster too.
I still haven't gotten around to blasting the car.
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theKbStockpiler
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Rust Belt
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| Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:45 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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I really believe that at minimum a 5hp compressor is needed to sand blast. Mine will sustain constant blasting but does not have hardly any reserve.Also some of the blasting nozzles are not sized right and work better when they get more use and the opening is worn. I think Sears has a tendency to carry decent ones. The one I use now is from TSC supply and I will replace it with a sears one the next time i have the need. It was the cheaper/simple model.
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My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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heimlich
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 6592
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:49 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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I've thought about getting a TP tools blasting gun for my cabinet. I made the Harbor Freight one work but as I do not have anything to compare it against do not know if the TP one works better.
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Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
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theKbStockpiler
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Rust Belt
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| Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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A 5hp with a decent nozzle works decent. Other wise it's going to take forever and be a chore. That's my experience.
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Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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heimlich
VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016
Posts: 6592
Location: Houston, Texas
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| Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 6:01 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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Slow is good for me. Get one of those heavy duty ones they use to blast the oil tanks with and you can be done in 5 mins.
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Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
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theKbStockpiler
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012
Posts: 2316
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| Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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There isn't a big market for compressors with over a 5hp motor in single phase so it's near impossible to find one new. 6-7hp is as big as single phase will do.
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Evil_Fiz
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2011
Posts: 1045
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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| Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:19 pm Post subject: Re: Sandblasting - Harbor Freight Compressor |
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| theKbStockpiler wrote: |
| There's one scenario where you will get advice that no time can be taken between operations of bodywork like sandblasting and welding but it's not practical for a one person DIY job. If you prime the body immediately after blasting the primer has to come off for welding ,as an example. |
I took a chance on "After Blast" from Eastwood and it payed of. It is a water based Phosphoric acid and Zinc, metal cleaner and prep solution. I recently blasted one of my spring plates using my 60 Gal. 3 HP Northstar compressor with very good results. What theKbStockpiler said about blasting is technically accurate but I have found the real world to be more forgiving. Here is a real world scenario I just went through
1) Set up to blast a spring plate outside using a siphon feed 50 Lbs. capacity blaster.
2) begin blasting
3) stop to re-position part and clean face shield
4) resume blasting
5) stop to re-position blaster and clean face shield
6) Take a quick break to stretch my back
7) Continue blasting...Rinse...Repeat.
The compressor ran for most of the time but kept up with the task at 90 PSI. This tells me that in reality, if you are not in a hurry to get the project finished, you can very easily get by with your Northstar compressor and a small blaster.
Now for the "After Blast." It work exceptionally well. This solution converts any remaining rust to Iron Phosphate ans leaves a protective coat of Zinc Phosphate on the clean metal. it also has cleaners and is intended as a last step before painting/priming bare metal. They have a couple of videos on the Eastwood site on how to use it.
Eastwood After Blast Metal Prep, Item #11971ZP
Use case 1: After blasting the spring plate I liberally sprayed it with after blast using a dollar store spray bottle. I let it sit for about 30 seconds then wiped it down with a microfiber cloth. I repeated these steps several times until there was no more residue visible on the cloth. I let the part sit overnight and checked it in the morning. The part developed a smooth, dark grey coating with some black where apparently there was some rust. Eastwood claims this will prevent surface rust and I am inclined to believe it. This solution converts any remaining rust to Iron Phosphate ans leaves a protective coat of Zinc Phosphate on the clean metal.
Use case 2: As an experiment, I soaked some rusty pan washers in vinegar for several days. I then removed them from the vinegar, brushed the rust off and rinsed until I was left with only shiny metal. I then let the parts air dry overnight to see what would happen. Sure enough, they developed an even coat of light surface rust. I then sprayed the washers down with After Blast, rubbed the rust of with my gloved fingers and resprayed with after blast (top side only.) After 3 days the untreated side has developed more surface rust but the treated side remains unchanged.
I intend to use the after blast on my body panels as I strip the paint off in sections. I believe it will protect the metal until I can coat the car in epoxy primer and MasterSeries silver/AG-111
EDIT/NOTE: If you plan to use Southern Polyurethane Inc. (SPI) Epoxy primer, DO NIOT USE AFTERBALST on any panel you plan to coat. AfterBlast and SPI Epoxy are not compatible. They recommend neutralized Ospho as metal prep if you if you need rust prevention.
Here is my recommendation for a portable blaster:
ALC Portable Abrasive Siphon Blaster 50-Lb. Capacity, Model# 41017
I have the 1980s version of this same blaster and the gun looks the same as the one available at northern.
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See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted |
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