72 Super Convertible, Top Install

[wdollie6]

Yes, the picture helps immensely. The metal bow that is attached to the wood bow at the bottom in your picture does not exist on my top, I'll post another picture so you can see it... Obviously this changes approach but I believe have enough information for a work around.

Wayne

[buggyrider]

Reviving this old thread, but seems the right place to ask to keep all the topic in one spot. I have a 72 super that I bought in pieces, and now studying how to install the convertible top. First step is to figure out if I am missing any pieces. What is supposed to go on the rear rim, where this picture shows these thin metal fingers sticking down? I've seen postings of a some kind of rod used on a '72 (possibly unique to that model year). I'm having a hard time envisioning how the convertible top ends up attached to whatever rod fits back there.

Thanks!
Toby

Any my entire frame setup:

[wdollie6]

After receiving quite a few questions regarding the 72 only convertible top frame, thought I would share a summary of my experiences along with some final thoughts. This 72 Super top was my first and hopefully last experience although I learned a lot. The pictures below show the frame and the only photo I have with top up, and yes that is Colin and I working on the fuel pump.

First and foremost the 72 frame for the convertible is indeed different than both the 71 and the 73, don't let anyone try to tell you different. The 72 uses the rear connection method of a 73 (metal clips and rods vs. wood) while continuing the front bow connection of the 71. In addition the 72 frame loses one of the 'rotating' bows at the rear which in of itself is no big deal. What is important is that it changes the dimension of where the remaining bow is stapled to the straps (see some of that banter earlier in the thread), I'm still not sure I have the proper dimension as at least three were discussed. As I recall I used the 71 dimension, 21.5 inches, which caused the headliner to be too tight resulting in a partially popped seam (sewed this tight with black thread, so far it is holding, thankfully). In hindsight probably should have used the 23.5 inch dimension from the 73? From a sequence standpoint didn't see the problem until it was too late. The only good news is that the headliner is very tight as is the canvas roof.

I will also comment on the plastic vs. wood bow scenario as I convinced myself plastic was the way to go, definitely the wrong decision. The plastic actually was misshapen, holes were in the wrong locations and it warped, yes warped once everything was in place. This left a huge gap at the bow windshield interface, which was unacceptable. I had to tear everything apart and start over. Fortunately was able to procure a wood bow which fit perfectly, problem solved. YMMV.

Finally as related to the tabs in the back. If you vehicle was in the rusted shape that mine was in you should place no faith in the robustness of those tabs. Two of mine broke off once everything was stretched in place so for the second time tore everything apart (this time in the rear) and replaced the rod tabs by fabricating my own pieces and welding in. Someone more experienced may have noticed this issue and addressed prior to assembly, not me...

At the end of the day my canvas top looks and works great, now if I could only get the windows to seal against it properly... A final thought, definitely get a boot for your top as the amount of dirt, bugs and other debris that it catches is amazing. Also helps to ensure that the top retains its shape.

Hopefully this helps someone else.

Wayne

_________________
1966 Beetle, Sunroof, Sea Sand
1970 Fastback, Deep Sea Green (... or will be)
1972 Super Beetle Convertible, Texas Yellow
1972 Westy, Sierra Yellow

[cosdp]

Could you guys possibly explain how the headliner, webbing and pads all attach to the rod in the back (possibly with some pics)? I also am missing the rod and cannot picture how it all ties together. Thanks.

[buggyrider]

cosdp, This picture shows part of it. You can see this skinny rod running along the rear of the chassis. The tabs welded to the chassis hold it in place. The headliner folds back on itself so you can feed the rod through that loop. The webbing also has a loop sewn in it, so it presumably slips through that rod as well. I'm not quite sure where it it is supposed to be positioned on the rod. I'm hoping for a bit of advice on that.

[cosdp]

Thank you so much Buggyrider. That pic cleared up a lot for me. There is so much information about the 70 and 71 models but not much about the 72. Especially on how it attaches to the rear.

The distance for the webbing straps should be 16 1/2 inches from the center of the car to the center of the strap. That is what it is for the 71 model. I believe the 71 and 72 use the same rear window. The distance from the back lip to the top of the bow (above rear window) is 23 1/2 inches.

I am also guessing that the pad sits in its own rod on top of what is shown in the picture.

I am planning on installing the top this weekend so any advice (besides "call chuck") would be greatly appreciated.

CosDP

[Bug bit]

I wish I had found this thread earlier! It would have saved me a great deal of time and even left some hair on my head. I am dealing with some of the same issues on my 72 convertible. Top was already off when I purchased the car and I don't know if I have everything needed to put it back together and how some of the pieces mount. Did you take photos as you progressed on yours and would you share them? I am a newby to this forum posting stuff but your experiences will be a big help to me. If only I could keep from getting my hand slapped by the administrators

[cosdp]

I started my top today. I had to do a little more work to the frame so I didn't get much done. I'm flying by the seat of my pants with most things but hopefully it will come out good. I marked the center of all the listings and the frame.

Went to Home Depot and bought a 6 foot 3/16 inch steel rod and cut it to roughly 5 feet 1 inch to fit the back

I inserted the headliner and the webbing straps

I had to make loops in the webbing and sew it

I slid the webbing onto the same rod as the headliner

I stapled that strap to the wood bow above the window. I used the 23 1/2 inch measurement. The center of that webbing to the center or the car is more than the 16 1/2 inch that I previously thought. I just put it to the end of where the headliner ends on the rod.

I then attached another webbing to the other bows with a screw and stapled it to the wooden bowl above the rear window.

This is how I left off.

I will continue tomorrow morning. The first thing I am going to do is attach the headliner. I am not exactly sure how it connects to the header but hopefully I will figure it out. The other thing I have to figure out is how the padding around the rear window connects to a separate rod. I am thinking that I have to sew a pocket in that also.

I hope this helps. More to follow.

[Bug bit]

Great pictures, cannot wait to see how it progresses. I watched a video on YouTube showing how the straps at the rear were spaced because the rear window frame was to be stapled to them and the window padding attached to the sides of the frame. Of course, it was a 71 model with a tack strip at the rear base instead of a rod like yours. The video was "1971 VW Super Beetle Convertible Installation" by Marla, Plain and Small. You may have seen it already but thought it may answer your window padding question. I recommend soda and popcorn because it is almost 35 minutes long.

[cosdp]

Made some progress today. So far I am happy with the results. I attached the headliner first. I started from the back and worked my way forward doing the header last. I used 3M 90 adhesive (almost done with my second one) and 3/16 inch 22 guage narrow crown stainless steel staples.

I think it came out pretty good. No major wrinkles.

I then attach the rear window to the webbing straps I measured 3 1/2 inches from the top lip to the top of the tacking strip on the window.

The rear padding is what consumed most of my day. I wound up tacking them to the inside of the window and to the top wood bow. For the bottom, I put each one around a 3/16 inch by 24 inches long rod and allowed the tension of the rod hold it in place. I did not sew a pocket in it. Seems to hold just fine.

Trimmed it.

I then centered the top padding, glued the foam and folded over the sides and glued them so there were no creases. Glued it to the header and stapled it to the bow above the rear window.

That's enough for me today. The hardest part so far is getting over the fear of messing up. Tomorrow I hope to start putting the top on. Not sure how the side cables connect or how the top attaches to the frame behind the rear quarter window. Not even sure how the headliner is finished in the back. Hopefully someone could chime in.

[buggyrider]

[cosdp]

Thanks for the info Buggyrider but if I would have gone with the 21 1/2 inch measurement, the headliner looks like it would have ripped when folded down. It is very tight as is now. Hopefully that measurement won't haunt me later.

I made a little more progress today. I put a piece of 1/2 inch foam (I bought from Joanne's Fabrics) over the front bow.

I put the cables through the top.

I will connect the side cables to the spring when I figure out how to get the right tension

I attached the front around the header with a few staples

Put the cable around the back and now wait for a rainless sunny day to "stretch it" so it will close.

As a side note, the header bow is synthetic and holds the staples perfectly. Besides having to do some initial shaping, I am very happy with it.

[cosdp]

Life got in the way but finally got back to it.
Nerve wracking but made a cut in the top

Stapled to the frame.

A little wrinkly but nothing I can do about it now. Cut the headliner and stapled to the frame:

Once I got over the fear, that part went pretty quick. Then..... THE BACK WINDOW HAPPENED. 4 hours and 9,000,000 tries later, I called it a day. Hopefully my kids will forgive me for the "words" that came out of my mouth and will help me again tomorrow.

[Cusser]

[cosdp]

Tried a few more times and came to the conclusion that I am going to need professional help with the back window. I don't know if I can just call any auto glass installer.

Glued the rest of the frame. Probably should have done that before attaching the rear cable.

[buggyrider]

Cosdp - you can DO this! Don't give up! I'm reading every one of your posts and poring over every pixel of your pictures, as I'm a few weeks behind you in my efforts. I need to see you be successful in this DIY endeavor so I can know I can do it. If you got the top from Chuck's, give him a call. I'm sure he has some tip for getting that rear window in. Perhaps also contact wdollie6. He is very nice and has been helping me offline throughout the process. He got his rear window in. Like always, there is some trick that makes easy what otherwise seems impossible.

[cosdp]

Buggyrider - I took your advice and didn't give up.......YET. I am so close but the top corner is not budging. Now I have an issue where the headliner around the lip is starting to fray from so many attempts.

I might go buy a big suction cup to help me move the glass. For now I'm going to leave it in the sun for a bit and by some miracle, the seal will be more cooperative.

[cosdp]

DONE!

Took the window out again and started over. I put the the trimmer wire around the gasket and started from the top. I put a lot of glycerin around the gasket.

This time, 2 of my boys and I pushed on the outside of the window while my youngest son pulled the wire. The other thing that I did differently was that I made sure the entire gasket was seated tight to the lip of the frame before the wire was pulled. I think that was the key.

I should have spent more time stapling the vinyl top to the window frame to get rid of some of those wrinkles. I could definitely live with it though. Now I will start tackling the frame to window seals.

[wdollie6]

cosdp, apologize for seeing this post late, however it appears you did fine without input. Your top looks great, the canvas I think is a little more forgiving when screwing around with the rear window and hides mistakes (trust me I made plenty). Your sticktuitiveness is to be congratulated, towards the end of my install I was ready to give in as well but...

Enjoy your top and good luck getting the windows to seal properly. I am still working on mine however my 72 was up to the floor in mud requiring that the entire rusted bottom be replaced, floors, panels, convertible structure, etc., nothing lines up perfectly at this point. Sure is fun to drive in Florida though.

Hope you and your sons enjoy the ride.
_________________
1966 Beetle, Sunroof, Sea Sand
1970 Fastback, Deep Sea Green (... or will be)
1972 Super Beetle Convertible, Texas Yellow
1972 Westy, Sierra Yellow

[buggyrider]

I got distracted for a month or so on this project due to spark plug stripping out threads in cylinder head resulting engine pull etc. But now back at it it!

Cosdp: I see you placed your window frame 3.5" above the chassis lip as recommended by Chuck. Now that the whole thing is installed, do you feel that the window is positioned correctly? I feel my window is positioned an inch or two too low, and that the top of the window will clip the view out the back unless I scrunch down. Even so, I'm not enthused about "off roading" and placing it higher in case I experience some kind of blowback such as top not able to close.