| Author |
Message |
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
 Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:00 am Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
 |
|
| vamram wrote: |
| What size rims do u have in back? |
Everything is just stock size.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 4:30 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Got the hood resprayed and reinstalled and actually fitted correctly. I am really happy with going to gas struts for the hinges they make a huge difference...on something ill open once a year.
I also adjusted the thermstat and took it out and really abused it on the backroads. Shifting at 4K and running her up hills and just generally beating on it. When I got home the mechanical oil gauge read about 225 so if that is the worst it gets I am happy with it.
After the beetle I got the fastback out and took her for a sunday drive so she didnt feel left out.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 4:42 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
It was pretty hot out today and I got stuck in a bunch of stop and go traffic, I ended up seeing about 240 on the mechanical gauge when i got home. At what point should I worry?
and it is a brazilian pict 34 with german SVDA, timed right at 7.5btdc, 5w30 dino oil, everything is pretty stock, but it is an engine that is highly unknown but has good compression.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:07 am Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| Hatracks wrote: |
It was pretty hot out today and I got stuck in a bunch of stop and go traffic, I ended up seeing about 240 on the mechanical gauge when i got home. At what point should I worry?
and it is a brazilian pict 34 with german SVDA, timed right at 7.5btdc, 5w30 dino oil, everything is pretty stock, but it is an engine that is highly unknown but has good compression. |
SO the thermostats seem to be operating correctly, I am starting to wonder if it could be the air cleaner, I have the stovepipe pulling heat off the heads so if the thermostat in the air cleaner isnt opening when hot I could just be recircing hot air after the engine is hot.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:25 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Lost my first condenser today, was running it around testing different things trying to see why it was running hot and while reversing out of the driveway had one backfire and the condenser was dead.
The thermostat in the aircleaner does not work but it is keeping the warm air closed so just pulling normal air so that isnt the issue. I reset the carb and re-tuned it to make sure I was not running lean but the car is still running at around 230-235 after driving it like i stole it for 30 minutes.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:43 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
How hot is it where you live? You say you "drive it like you stole it". Maybe when it's hot, you should just drive it moderately.
My engine oil tends to be 100 degrees hotter than the ambient temperature. For example, at 90 degrees ambient, I see about 190 degrees on my aircooled.net dipstick temperature gauge. This is after a highway run. Putting around town, the oil doesn't get as hot.
i wonder if removing the stovepipe and blocking off the hole in the tin might be a good idea. Some of the hot air may be partially forcing the door open. But, I'd get the thermostat for your air cleaner and hook it all up, regardless if you block the system temporarily.
240 is pushing it, although some who live in Phoenix don't seem to think so. I do, though. Have you checked your pressure relief and pressure control valves to see if they're moving properly? Do they have the stock springs and pistons--and not those heavy-duty aftermarket ones? I'd at least check to see what they look like, and if they move freely.
Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
allamaabroad
Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2016
Posts: 560
Location: South Jordan, Utah
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Or just stick a tennis ball on the deck lid latch for the summer and call it good. It's amazing what cracking open the deck lid will do for your temps.
_________________
Dennis - 1973 Super Beetle ('16-'21)
Debbie- 1970 Baywindow Bus ('21 - Present)
Tin top camper/adventure bus
2180 TW: CNC Panchitos, Beehives Done Right, Web 163, Ultralight Lifters, 1.3 Rockers, CSP Python, Custom Speeduino EFI Conversion with 40mm Throttle Bodies
Distributors are lame
I have a really hard time leaving things alone...
Innovative and affordable engine management systems and EFI conversions for your Vintage VW
Visit https://debbiesaircooled.com/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:18 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| Tim Donahoe wrote: |
How hot is it where you live? You say you "drive it like you stole it". Maybe when it's hot, you should just drive it moderately.
My engine oil tends to be 100 degrees hotter than the ambient temperature. For example, at 90 degrees ambient, I see about 190 degrees on my aircooled.net dipstick temperature gauge. This is after a highway run. Putting around town, the oil doesn't get as hot.
i wonder if removing the stovepipe and blocking off the hole in the tin might be a good idea. Some of the hot air may be partially forcing the door open. But, I'd get the thermostat for your air cleaner and hook it all up, regardless if you block the system temporarily.
240 is pushing it, although some who live in Phoenix don't seem to think so. I do, though. Have you checked your pressure relief and pressure control valves to see if they're moving properly? Do they have the stock springs and pistons--and not those heavy-duty aftermarket ones? I'd at least check to see what they look like, and if they move freely.
Tim |
It was about 88 degrees today and I mostly was driving it hard just to force the issue since it takes about 30-40 minutes of normal driving to get it that hot.
I will block the stovepipe for now and make sure that isnt letting hot air up in there. No i did not check the pressure relief and pressure control valves, I will have to look up the procedure for checking them.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 10:42 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
The plugs on the oil pressure relief valves have a slotted head. They say to use a very large flat screwdriver to turn them, but that's a huge screwdriver, so I made a cheap, simple tool to do the job.
First, I got an old-fashion church key (an old metal soda bottle opener--the kind that used to pop the tops off coke bottles, or cuts a v-shaped hole in the old, old beer cans, before pull tabs). Next, I cut off one end of the church key with a hacksaw, and filed the top nice and flat so that it looked like the end of a big, fat screwdriver blade. Now, slip the filed-square end of the church key into the slot of either plug under the engine. Then get some vice grips on the body of the key and turn. The church key is, hopefully, a good fit. Mine is perfect.
Very, very important: Don't get the springs and plungers mixed up. They are of a different size. So just do one at a time. It's unnecessary to drain the oil, by the way. Just a little will come out.
Check the plungers for scuff marks, and bores for smoothness. After removing the springs, the plungers (liberally oiled by you) should move up and down the bore easily. Should you encounter it, it may be necessary to stick a properly-sized screwdriver into the bottom of a stuck plunger to remove it. A tap will work, too. Whatever, just get it out.
Both plungers should not have a 1500-engine slot near their tops. Both should simply look like tiny, inverted tin cans. Oil the plungers and springs and insert the plunger, then the spring, and push up and down. The plunger needs to move freely. If one or both is stuck up in the bore, this will prevent most of your oil from going to the oil cooler. This usually happens when people don't change their oil often enough. Stuff wedges in there and gums up the works, I guess.
When okay, use the church key and vice grips to tighten the slotted caps. But don't tighten a lot. Just nice and snug. New cap washers would be nice.
Also, did you check to see if you had a foam strip wrapped around your oil cooler? And did you have a Hoover Bit? These items help somewhat, too.
Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 6:08 am Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| Tim Donahoe wrote: |
The plugs on the oil pressure relief valves have a slotted head. They say to use a very large flat screwdriver to turn them, but that's a huge screwdriver, so I made a cheap, simple tool to do the job.
First, I got an old-fashion church key (an old metal soda bottle opener--the kind that used to pop the tops off coke bottles, or cuts a v-shaped hole in the old, old beer cans, before pull tabs). Next, I cut off one end of the church key with a hacksaw, and filed the top nice and flat so that it looked like the end of a big, fat screwdriver blade. Now, slip the filed-square end of the church key into the slot of either plug under the engine. Then get some vice grips on the body of the key and turn. The church key is, hopefully, a good fit. Mine is perfect.
Very, very important: Don't get the springs and plungers mixed up. They are of a different size. So just do one at a time. It's unnecessary to drain the oil, by the way. Just a little will come out.
Check the plungers for scuff marks, and bores for smoothness. After removing the springs, the plungers (liberally oiled by you) should move up and down the bore easily. Should you encounter it, it may be necessary to stick a properly-sized screwdriver into the bottom of a stuck plunger to remove it. A tap will work, too. Whatever, just get it out.
Both plungers should not have a 1500-engine slot near their tops. Both should simply look like tiny, inverted tin cans. Oil the plungers and springs and insert the plunger, then the spring, and push up and down. The plunger needs to move freely. If one or both is stuck up in the bore, this will prevent most of your oil from going to the oil cooler. This usually happens when people don't change their oil often enough. Stuff wedges in there and gums up the works, I guess.
When okay, use the church key and vice grips to tighten the slotted caps. But don't tighten a lot. Just nice and snug. New cap washers would be nice.
Also, did you check to see if you had a foam strip wrapped around your oil cooler? And did you have a Hoover Bit? These items help somewhat, too.
Tim |
The hoover bit is there and there was some foam, I blew out the oil cooler and cleaned it when I had the engine out. I will check the plungers and springs and make sure nothing is going on there.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:11 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Havent been able to check the plungers and springs yet. Drove it a bit today and the second condenser I put in there started to fail. Maybe I should not talk so bad about the pertronix unit since I had to order condensers I may have to put it back in
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Buggeee
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4421
Location: Stuck in Ohio
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:49 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
What brand condensers are you using? And are you using the correct one for your distributor?
I had one Bosch condenser go bad on me, but only the one.
Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:35 am Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| Tim Donahoe wrote: |
What brand condensers are you using? And are you using the correct one for your distributor?
I had one Bosch condenser go bad on me, but only the one.
Tim |
The first one that died was from Mexico, the second one was what came on the car who knows where it is from. It is not dead it just is intermittent, I have had a lot of bad luck with condensers in the past 10 years or so (I have 3 cars I run points on). I ordered a couple of different brands to try.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 7:17 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Third condenser and she is up and running like a top again, spare one in glovebox, and a pertronix distributor in the trunk just in case...
I also found the tarboard/insulation/whatever that stuff around the engine compartment was sagging when hot and maybe restricting some airflow so I added some additional fastners to keep it in place and the car is back to running in the 225 range when racing down the back roads.
Ready to get embarrassed at the next autox event.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Kc8bxi
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2017
Posts: 2
Location: Michigan
|
| Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:50 am Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| i have a 1973 super that flasher will not quit blinking inside the car no lights are flashing outside the blinkers and emergency flashers work fine outside but will not stop flashing in the speedometer please help |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
vamram 
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
|
| Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 12:54 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
| Kc8bxi wrote: |
| i have a 1973 super that flasher will not quit blinking inside the car no lights are flashing outside the blinkers and emergency flashers work fine outside but will not stop flashing in the speedometer please help |
Kc8bxi, welcome to the Samba but you should start your own thread for your issue rather than dropping it into someone else's build thread. Just go back to the top of the 68+ forum and click the "New Topic" button and post your question. You're guaranteed to get lots of helpful and other advice!
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
Got around to doing the bypass you can see there is some tool marks? on the parts so I cleaned them with emery cloth until smooth and put them back in. The car ran well and got to about 220 but once again when I got it home, shut it down, went to move it trying to start it hot killed another condenser.
So I need to figure out why I am killing condensers all of a sudden the voltage is like 11.88 when measured at the coil. I guess I am going to throw the pertronix back in for now.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hatracks
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2016
Posts: 664
Location: Renton, WA
|
| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 5:35 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
So the condenser issue...I am getting about 15.7 volts at 3K rpm maybe the over-voltage is killing the condensers along with the heat. Guess I need a new voltage regulator.
_________________
73 Super Build |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
|
| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 10:55 pm Post subject: Re: 73 Super Beetle - Build thread? |
|
|
220 degrees is still fine.
I noticed from your pics that your oil pressure relief valve is for a 1500 (the kind with the groove toward the top). I read up a little, and this grooved plunger should actually make your oil run cooler.
I also read in Bently that your longer spring (oil relief) should be 1-3/4 inches long. The shorter control valve spring should be 3/4 inch long. If they're longer, I wonder if you might happen to have aftermarket "heavy-duty" springs. I have no idea what their purpose is, or if you have them, if it's having an effect on your oil cooling.
Perhaps a new coil will cure your condenser issue.
Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
