Replacing pan and longitudinals on T5 coupe

[William Crowell]

Is it necessary to brace the upper body when doing the pan and longs on a coupe (I'm thinking it's not necessary)?

I gotta decide whether to do the pans by the "Jim Kellogg" method, or the "drill out the spot welds" method. I am leaning toward the latter because it seems preferable, and am thinking that maybe the only reason Mr. Kellogg recommended his method was because he assumed that the average 356 DIY restorer wouldn't have the patience to drill out all the spot welds. I've got the patience, though. Any words of wisdom?

Thanks.

[PD41]

I don't think you have to brace it on a coupe. Call one of the Porsche restoration guys and ask. Or Call Jim at EASY Porsche parts in San Fran.

[Bulli Klinik]

I don't think it's necessary to brace a coupe if you do only sections at a time. If you plan on hacking out the bottom of the car and it's very rusty, then bracing may be a good idea.

With regards to drilling, it would be a waste of time drilling out the majority of the floor as the flange which holds the floor in place will likely need replacement. I generally cut out spot welded flanges and replace both sides with fresh metal.
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I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[William Crowell]

PD41 and Mike K, thanks a lot for your replies.

When I have the floor flange area sandblasted, I'll post a picture and see if you guys think the flange needs to be replaced or not.

This was a fairly rust-free car until I let it sit outside in the rain, mistakenly thinking it didn't leak, and didn't realize that water was sitting in the floor pan. The old pan isn't extremely rusty, and at first I was going to try to save it. I tried to repair it, but the more pinholes I welded up the more pinholes appeared, so then I decided to replace it. Therefore I think maybe the flanges will be OK, but we'll see.

[themetalsurgeon]

its always best to be on the safe side to combat any shift in bracing up A to B posts in my opinion.
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