Injection help intermittent bucking when cold damp or rain

[SGKent]

[kevineo]

Coil is ok, took quite a few cranks but she started, rough. Points (new) clean and gapped.
Removed and tested TS2 (mech replaced it 6-23-17) Tested good cold, warm and fluctuated ohms in between....per Ratwell
So carrying on I tested the CSV cold start valve 022-906-171B according to Bentley and it passed the leak test. 0.4 ohms.
However it failed the fuel pressure gauge leak down utilizing jumpers per Bentley.
Is there another test? Costly part....

Tested TTS thermo time switch 022-906-163 it failed the light dimming test. Crank engine for 12 plus seconds light stayed bright. Should dim as TTS warms from cranking. According to Bentley.
TTS is NLA....
If I'm missing something or testing wrongly please correct me....

[busdaddy]

If it's warm where you live try unplugging the cold start valve, the TTS may be overdoing it on the prime. Lots of used TTS' available in the classifieds, they are also used by bugs and many other car brands that use L-jet. Or consider disabling/removing the whole CSV system if you don't drive in temps below 20*F, there have been a few incidents of the CSV springing a leak and starting a fire.
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[Tcash]

However it failed the fuel pressure gauge leak down utilizing jumpers per Bentley.
If the CSV failed the Leak down test. That means it is leaking fuel into the plenum all the time and making the fuel mixture Rich. Try cleaning it and be gentle with it. If the plastic "T" fitting is loose, replace the CSV.

Test your Dwell meter on another vehicle. I don't think it would make a difference. But make sure the Green distributor wire is connected to -negative #1 and the black wire to +positive #15 on the coil.

Good luck
Tcash

[kevineo]

TCASH I misstated: the CSV did not leak per Bentley Fuel Injection section10 pg. 9 chapter 4.2. Sorry
Today I cleaned the CSV, hit it with 12v quickly and she clicked! Yay.
Took a can of bio-freeze and blasted the TTS, ran the ignition and the test light went out in 11 seconds as required. Again, bio-freeze/ignition light went out.
Installed CSV to fuel rail and fuel pressure gauge to CSV exit side. CSV not installed. I sprayed bio-freeze on TTS using jumpers I could watch the spray function and shut down 11-12 seconds. Maxed out fuel gauge. Oops lol.
Re- Attached plugs ran ignition she again sprayed for 10-11 seconds and shut down. Re-installed all. Started right up, ran rough.
Installed new vacuum hose everywhere (all small hose) installed new plugs, gas filter and she starts right up now but still rough.
Pulled plug wires at cap and the spark was intermittent, and weak. Pulling the wires one by one had no effect in how she ran. Great indicator! Checked points again, cap and rotor good. Pulled distributor to inspect clean and to put new condenser, damn I should have looked; sold me the wrong condenser. Tomorrow's another day.

My bad: in the beginning of my explanation for this post I failed to mention the headlights/dash lights were going dim for a mile or two. Only that one time in my 8000 mile trip. But enough to make one think electrical problem exists.

Is it possible the alternator/voltage regulator or voltage stabilizer is the root cause the electrical failures, the poor intermittent spark and or loss of spark.

Baffling to say the least but I believe I've troubleshot the entire fuel injection system /entire vacuum system and ignition.
Note: I haven't pulled the pressure regulator yet! Gauge Checked. No sign nor smell of fuel in vac hoses.......I'll double check tomorrow now that all vac hoses are changed.
Im of the mindset it's not fuel related nor vacuum yet voltage.....
Set me straight please. Almost there.....

[kevineo]

SGKent you were correct. Ignition it is.
culprit

Crushed at block from forcibly adjusting timing to keep her running I assume

New condenser doesnt match. correct condenser is NLA

Cut tab for grommet from damaged condenser

Moved condenser clockwise on distributor to utilize vacuum pot hardware

Out of harms way.

[KentABQ]

And...???
Did replacing the condenser fix the problem??

[williamM]

[kevineo]

Yes. The condenser fixed this problem.
Purrs as a well tuned fuel injection system should. Although I believe the condenser was not the root cause.
I only played 8-9 songs (boring Nebraska) in 8000 miles as I like to listen to my bus as I drive, the creaks n clatter, the strain climbing hills etc..Check oil religiously every fuel stop. I thought I was on top of it. Not the case.

I've played the scenario over n over and believe no way could I have driven across the US in that condition.

I believe my journey through Tennessee back roads was enough to loosen the catalytics insides to a point where it blocked the exhaust. Backfiring, messing up The AFM, dumping fuel fouling the plugs, combine that with leaky vacuum hoses and dry cracked leaky injector seals. The condenser issue was introduced once back in Ca. from a local shop as she then became completely intolerable.
Not feeling pressure from exhaust caused me too remove the system finding partially blocked cat with insides broken, strewn about inside muffler as well. Cleaned debris, installed new muffler. Troubleshooting the fuel system exposed the air leaks n bad seals. Not finding a specific issue caused thorough inspection as I was determined to resolve this prior to a rebuild, I see no sense rebuilding if I don't know what, why,.....
Quite an education, I'm grateful. I now possess the knowledge of the intricacies in the bus communication between varied components. With this knowledge, and of course "new tools" I'm confident. Diligence in-maintenance is key.
As a woman, the bus likes attention.
Compression numbers dropped when checked warm vs. cold.
#1) 118 to 108
#2) 117 to 112
#3) 115 to 100
#4) 130 to 125
Thanks Again for all the input, the tutorial links, etc.....

[Tcash]

Glad you figured it out and right so. A number of time I have heard of people rebuilding their engine. without fixing the problem that caused it to fail in the first place. Only to ruin the newly rebuilt engine.
Note how the compression numbers are more in line with each other now. You never want more than a 10% difference between the lowest and highest reading.
Good luck
Tcash