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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:
I working up to this as i know one window leaks now so i keep rag to catch and water.

This is for a 70 deluxe bus

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ive read many threads and this one seems cover removing the wing window after the main window is taken out

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53908&start=0

Then i saw the utube video that makes it look pretty simple.
https://youtu.be/Uhfqt4yDias

I was reading about twisting tabs etc and the such, what tabs are being talked about. Also about removing a rivet... is this rivet need to be taken out to replace the rubber?

Seems
#1 remove main window, reseal
#2 remove vent window, reseal
#3 install vent window
#4 install main window.

Is this the order? Im pretty sure im rust free on the frames..

There's no need for all that paint scratchy prying shown in the vid, open the window and whack the vertical bar backwards with the palm of your hand.

The tab bending is only required if you are removing the vent while leaving the main window in place, it's not hard to pop the big window out first and if you are doing all the seals it's gotta come out anyways.

The rivet(s) mentioned have to be removed if you are replacing the outer seal on the vent window, they hold the vertical bar to the main outer frame.

Don't be at all shocked if you discover the lower pivot stud on the moveable part of the vent window has siezed into the friction clamp years ago and has twisted free of the glass frame, if you don't mind a floppy window you can reuse it, but if you want it to stay open you'll have to replace it or get the glass out of the frame so you can weld the pivot back in.
Also expect the lower section of the vent frame to be rusty, some are salvageable, many are toast. Have a backup plan ready, either a replacement used (or new?) window assy, or a full length window and seal to delete the vent.
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
RBurn wrote:
I working up to this as i know one window leaks now so i keep rag to catch and water.

This is for a 70 deluxe bus

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ive read many threads and this one seems cover removing the wing window after the main window is taken out

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53908&start=0

Then i saw the utube video that makes it look pretty simple.
https://youtu.be/Uhfqt4yDias

I was reading about twisting tabs etc and the such, what tabs are being talked about. Also about removing a rivet... is this rivet need to be taken out to replace the rubber?

Seems
#1 remove main window, reseal
#2 remove vent window, reseal
#3 install vent window
#4 install main window.

Is this the order? Im pretty sure im rust free on the frames..

There's no need for all that paint scratchy prying shown in the vid, open the window and whack the vertical bar backwards with the palm of your hand.

The tab bending is only required if you are removing the vent while leaving the main window in place, it's not hard to pop the big window out first and if you are doing all the seals it's gotta come out anyways.

The rivet(s) mentioned have to be removed if you are replacing the outer seal on the vent window, they hold the vertical bar to the main outer frame.

Don't be at all shocked if you discover the lower pivot stud on the moveable part of the vent window has siezed into the friction clamp years ago and has twisted free of the glass frame, if you don't mind a floppy window you can reuse it, but if you want it to stay open you'll have to replace it or get the glass out of the frame so you can weld the pivot back in.
Also expect the lower section of the vent frame to be rusty, some are salvageable, many are toast. Have a backup plan ready, either a replacement used (or new?) window assy, or a full length window and seal to delete the vent.


Thank you for the info and tips. What is you feeling on doing sliding windows? Im wondering if i should make a solid on the driver side rear like the pass rear side is and have sliders on the middle ones and just do away with these wing windows? Would air flow be good.? I was told at wolfgang they make a rear safari window, maybe with front wings, middle sliders and a rear opening window would give great airflow.

Ive redone the weather stripping on our 67 beetle, i know the bus front doors will be basically the same. I used a mix of german and brazillian and had some issue with the brazillian inside scrapers and got the germans and they are like butter, but on the bus ill get all german from the getgo.

Per stock setup and wings are open is there buffeting inside as there is no exit at the back other than the rear wings, seems like there would be...?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 6:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
RBurn wrote:
I working up to this as i know one window leaks now so i keep rag to catch and water.

This is for a 70 deluxe bus

[img]pic[/img]

Ive read many threads and this one seems cover removing the wing window after the main window is taken out

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53908&start=0

Then i saw the utube video that makes it look pretty simple.
https://youtu.be/Uhfqt4yDias

I was reading about twisting tabs etc and the such, what tabs are being talked about. Also about removing a rivet... is this rivet need to be taken out to replace the rubber?

Seems
#1 remove main window, reseal
#2 remove vent window, reseal
#3 install vent window
#4 install main window.

Is this the order? Im pretty sure im rust free on the frames..

There's no need for all that paint scratchy prying shown in the vid, open the window and whack the vertical bar backwards with the palm of your hand.

The tab bending is only required if you are removing the vent while leaving the main window in place, it's not hard to pop the big window out first and if you are doing all the seals it's gotta come out anyways.

The rivet(s) mentioned have to be removed if you are replacing the outer seal on the vent window, they hold the vertical bar to the main outer frame.

Don't be at all shocked if you discover the lower pivot stud on the moveable part of the vent window has siezed into the friction clamp years ago and has twisted free of the glass frame, if you don't mind a floppy window you can reuse it, but if you want it to stay open you'll have to replace it or get the glass out of the frame so you can weld the pivot back in.
Also expect the lower section of the vent frame to be rusty, some are salvageable, many are toast. Have a backup plan ready, either a replacement used (or new?) window assy, or a full length window and seal to delete the vent.


Thank you for the info and tips. What is you feeling on doing sliding windows? Im wondering if i should make a solid on the driver side rear like the pass rear side is and have sliders on the middle ones and just do away with these wing windows? Would air flow be good.? I was told at wolfgang they make a rear safari window, maybe with front wings, middle sliders and a rear opening window would give great airflow.

Per stock setup and wings are open is there buffeting inside as there is no exit at the back other than the rear wings, seems like there would be...?

VW ditched the swing out windows and went to middle sliders ~78, they do work well, even with solid rears. The rear safari may work OK in some rare conditions, but is more likely to leak poisonous exhaust (and water) into the bus daily than do what you hope it will, more of a kewl thing than functional. Rear side sliders are available if you want the whole open bus experience. I haven't seen any long term water leak reviews on the sliders, but they can't be much worse than the swing out vents.
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Van Damage
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hey everyone,

I'm having a sliding door lock issue. It's a '74, so it's a single lock style with the black remote slide on the inside, set a little lower and in front of the release handle. The problem is that the lock can not be operated by key or interior remote slide. It seems to be jammed and will not allow operation of the lock, no movement of any kind. It was working wonderfully 2 days ago.
What could be holding it up?

Cheers.
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westysmb
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is it possible to remove the spare tire well out of a 1970 bus?
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williamM
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:56 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Sad sawzall n a welder- good to go- but why not just put a plate over the hole? All my campers had that pocket for the tire "pushed up" (read base ball bat" ) so the big camper battery would fit there.[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]
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westysmb
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

williamM wrote:
Sad sawzall n a welder- good to go- but why not just put a plate over the hole? All my campers had that pocket for the tire "pushed up" (read base ball bat" ) so the big camper battery would fit there.[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]


I figured it was harder than I was hoping for. I hoped it was just spot welded and a new one would drop right in.

Mine is actually rusted out. I'm assuming it's from a mix of a bunch of junk left in the well and a leak from the window causing a massive rust hole in the well.

Strangely, there isn't any rust in the engine bay under it.
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Tcash Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

westysmb wrote:
Is it possible to remove the spare tire well out of a 1970 bus?

Looks like it is spot welded in.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2020137
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2066422

Good luck
Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:21 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Van Damage wrote:
Hey everyone,

I'm having a sliding door lock issue. It's a '74, so it's a single lock style with the black remote slide on the inside, set a little lower and in front of the release handle. The problem is that the lock can not be operated by key or interior remote slide. It seems to be jammed and will not allow operation of the lock, no movement of any kind. It was working wonderfully 2 days ago.
What could be holding it up?
Cheers.

Try spraying the key hole with some lock lubricant. Not sure on the 74. But if the door is locked from the outside, you may not be able to unlock it from the inside.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7302715#7302715
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7302764#7302764
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7302939#7302939
Good luck
Tcash
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 8:46 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Heres one. Took my axles off and left them at local shop to check and regrease and new boots. So after 70 bucks i had them in the rear of my rig in a box. Got home and one or two joints tilted enough to let two bearings drop out. So much grease i had a time trying to figure out what joint they were out of. By the time i was done i had all the bearing out of both sides of one axle Shocked .
Had to leave to have dinner to meet another couple and after many drinks the issue left my mind. So this morning im staring at my complete mess.

I notice that i have two diferent size balls in each joint. I guess i recalled last night why that dam bearing would not go in.... so pissed.

Ok 6 bearings are 17.41mm and 6 are 19.01... i k ow the pict now says 19.02.. but its 19.01.
The bearing at the bottom is smaller.

Is the smaller bearing for a different vw? The outer rims seem to be the same size with one having smaller grooves for the smaller bearings.

Should i order a new cv for T2 bus?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?
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Wanted, OG paint 1971 Niagara blue decklid.

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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?


Glad you asked, i cleaned one up and got the big bearings back in.

The larger balls 19.01mm Surprised part number
211 501 331B vw audi symbol

The smaller 17.41mm bb's
211 501 331A Lobro.

Here pict.

I have some extreme pressure (EP) grease... its red for disk brake wheel bearing, no ingredients but name is no. 2 mystik hi temp. Not sure if safe for cv boot rubber...?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 10:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:

I have some extreme pressure (EP) grease... its red for disk brake wheel bearing, no ingredients but name is no. 2 mystik hi temp. Not sure if safe for cv boot rubber...?


Use a grease supplemented with molybdenum disulfide.

https://www.mystiklubes.com/do/product/GREASE/665056002
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 10:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
RBurn wrote:

I have some extreme pressure (EP) grease... its red for disk brake wheel bearing, no ingredients but name is no. 2 mystik hi temp. Not sure if safe for cv boot rubber...?


Use a grease supplemented with molybdenum disulfide.

https://www.mystiklubes.com/do/product/GREASE/665056002


Thats it! I should have searched. Mine does not have Molybdenum Disulfide. Boo. Off the the parts house

Thanks.
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Last edited by RBurn on Sat Aug 19, 2017 11:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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RBurn
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 10:59 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?


Ok i just checked the other axle and it has the same cv bearing arrangement. Lobro small bearing on one end and the other end has the larger bearings.

Im not sure what side to mate to the transaxle? Should the large bearing go inboard or outboard? It will go either way, but does either side get more pressure or wear and tear? Seems that either side would be the same?

Suggestions?
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?


Ok i just checked the other axle and it has the same cv bearing arrangement. Lobro small bearing on one end and the other end has the larger bearings.

Im not sure what side to mate to the transaxle? Should the large bearing go inboard or outboard? It will go either way, but does either side get more pressure or wear and tear? Seems that either side would be the same?

Suggestions?


The joints barely wear if they have enough clean grease. It isn't going to make much difference which end goes where. Flipping the joints end for end will cause them to wear in a slightly different location though as the axles tend to move outward from the centerline of the vehicle.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 2:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RBurn wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Hmmmm..., are one of the joints a different brand?


Glad you asked, i cleaned one up and got the big bearings back in.

The larger balls 19.01mm Surprised part number
211 501 331B vw audi symbol

The smaller 17.41mm bb's
211 501 331A Lobro.

Both cv joint part numbers start with 211. So they must both be for a T2.
Compare the bolt pattern to these.
Note the Type 4 ball bearings are 17.5mm
http://blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

Make sure you have them assembled correctly.
CV Joint Assembly

Good luck
Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Rust fixes. Discovered some areas that don't look so great...top area of nose and window channels look good. The areas that seem the worst are under the front bumper - both sides, the tire well behind drivers tire, and of course the front floor board. Any suggestions how to fix these areas?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 3:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

jlarmen wrote:
Rust fixes. Discovered some areas that don't look so great...top area of nose and window channels look good. The areas that seem the worst are under the front bumper - both sides, the tire well behind drivers tire, and of course the front floor board. Any suggestions how to fix these areas?

Those look pretty tough. If you're planning on doing the repairs yourself, buy the Haynes "Volkswagen Bay Transporter Restoration Manual" and also the Haynes Techbook Welding Manual. Both available on Amazon.

If you plan on having the work done, I hope you have lots of high-producing oil wells in your Texas backyard! Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cut out the bad weld in the good,simple as that.that should be an easy fix.
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