Removal Of Engine Mounting Bolt Issue

[bugguy1967]

I'm pretty sure my cross shaft or t/o bearing broke. I went to pull my engine today and the upper driver's side mounting bolt has a 17mm hex! What's worse is the trans has a cutout in the trans housing to stop the hex from spinning, similar to how the starter has a provision to stop the half moon bolt from spinning. This is in a 67 Bug. I have no idea how someone got it in there. The other end is the captive nut that comes in the late cases. Other than grinding the head off. Looking for alternative ideas before I go out there tomorrow. Thanks.

[ach60]

Sorry man I did that in 1979, when I put a '72 engine in the '67.
I swear to god I put a washer on that bolt before I put it in.
Smack the socket onto the 17mm bolt, and turn away.
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Good Luck
Al

[Dale M.]

You have to struggle to get it out enough with open end wrench to where you can get box end wrench on it or find really thin wall socket.... Yeah it's a problem... When you put motor back in put two or three washers on bolt first or grind lip back to where you can use socket.... One option we used was allen head cap screw in that location... Another was to relieve the area with dremel tool and cutting burr...If you can get in there with small burr you can relieve it to get bolt out...

Yes its B!%$H and you just have to tough it out...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[stealth67vw]

On my car some dope put a triple square M12 bolt near doghouse cooler. I spent a good 2 hours trying to back it out before removing all the top tin and oil cooler and drilling it out from the back side. It turned a 5 minutes job into a 5 hour ordeal.
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John Bates
JB Machining Services
1967 street Bug 2276 w/ 48 IDAs, 2020lbs with driver
7.76 @ 89.55mph 1/8 mile
12.34 and 108.10 mph 1/4 mile

[bugguy1967]

Ok, good ideas! I don't know why I didn't think of smacking a 17mm socket onto that area. I could also drill it out. From the other side. Maybe I should turn down a socket on the lathe so it'll chisel in easier. Thanks all!

[dgsaz]

I just went through a similar situation. I got lots of good info from this thread:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681511&highlight=dgsaz

[Cusser]

You could grind a 17mm socket narrower using a bench grinder (and eye protection); I've got a few of those "special" sockets. And use a washer on re-assembly.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[esde]

That bolt is even worse with the early bus curved throwout arm, that points the clutch cable end right at the head of the bolt. It can be a real puzzle if the cable is stretched, and the "extra" cable runs clear to the bolt head, so there's no room to get the wrench on. Fun, fun, fun.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[busman78]

How about a 3/8" drive 12pt socket, then a u-joint, then enough extensions to get your ratchet to the front side of the axle, worked for me on some tight fits. If and when you get it out find a reduced head bolt, it will use a 15mm socket.

[bugguy1967]

I ended up grinding a 17mm socket paper thin. I got it out. Replaced it with a 15mm head, flanged bolt. Thanks all!