Oil level/ advice on rebuild

[chiefdaveboats]

My rail is equipped with a spin on filter kit and a 6 tube oil cooler mounted at the top of the roll cage. When I check oil level a couple of minutes after shut down there is only about 1/4" of oil on the dipstick. After setting an hour or so the oil level is about 1/4" above the fill line due to drain down from the cooler. Which of these levels would be the correct reading? I want to make sure that there is adequate oil in the sump but don't want to overfill and have the oil start to foam.

Over the winter I plan on tearing the engine down and doing a mild hop up. I'm leaning toward a 1776 with a mild cam and high lift rockers. Mainly street use with some off road. The cases are German marked AD code. Non ethanol 91 octane gas is available here. What would be a good compression ratio? Would like to know what parts are good and what to avoid. Does anyone make hydraulic lifters for Type 1 engines? All advice is welcome.

[KTPhil]

I added a full-flow to my Fastback motor, and had a minor version of the same issue you see.

After the rebuild, my first plan was to thoughtlessly follow the normal procedure: Check it by the book-- cold, in the morning, before running. It will read full. At oil changes, I would add about one quart more than the stock 2.5 to account for the filter and lines.

But as soon as it's started and has refilled the filter and lines, if I shut down and just give it a minute, it would read low if it's been many miles since the last oil change (I am losing oil through the valve guides, I think, but that's another story).

Then I had the "aHA!" moment and realized I shouldn't care what the cold level is. It's important to have it filled enough to not starve when running.

So now I check it after warmup, but let it sit for a minute or two to drain down any splash, to be consistent. I have to be careful to really wipe the dipstick dry before re-inserting in order to get a good reading. Often (because of the long Type 3 dipstick) I will do 2-3 quick checks to be sure.

This short pause does not give the filter (which should have a backflow valve but who really knows) a chance to drain.

This means I am well above the full line when checked cold after a day or two of not running. So what? After starting, any foaming will diminish quickly as the level drops and any hard splashing stops.

Before I changed my habit, I used to occasionally see the light flicker on long hard cornering. Oil starvation! Now it doesn't happen.

So I think I'm doing the right thing now. I recommend you do likewise.

[vwracerdave]

Your oil level needs to be between the marks when you shut the engine off.

Your oil cooler mounted on top of the cage is a bad location. It should not be mounted any higher that the engine. When you rebuild the engine this winter I would change to a doghouse oil cooler and completely eliminate the auxilary oil cooler. A 1776 with the exposed engine in a rail should not need any extra oil coolers.

You choose a compression ratio based on the cam you choose.
_________________
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[yamaducci]

Your oil level immediately after shut down should be on the factory "Full" line. That means you have enough oil in the cooling system and the crank case. On cold start let the oil pump up to the cooler and lines before revving it too much. Experiment and find out how long it takes to get a normal dipstick reading after cold starts.
A 1776c engine is a great first engine and usually ends up being a very reliable strong package. The compression will depend on the cam shaft selection. The cam will be selected based on the heads and the heads based on purpose and wallet. Take a look at aircooled.net cam selection write-ups and determine power band and CR from there.
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[mark tucker]

I would rather have plenty of oil when running,I havent seen any engines kill the bearings from just sitting with low or high oil....

[chiefdaveboats]

Thanks for the advice on the oil level question. I think my son has a spare doghouse and fan so I'll get that from him.

As to the 1776 upgrade I plan on using the AD code cases, 040 101 3752 heads and the Kadron/Solex dual carbs (will rejet) on my current engine. Also have a Tri Mil 1 1/2" exhaust system w/ a Supertrapp spark arrester that will be going on. Would like to start buying parts a little at a time so looking to know what other members have successfully used in their builds.