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The Stupid Question Thread
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
Al, I learned from this site about the two barbs when I was looking for the tank for my '79. If I end up having to use it I'll plug the extra nipple. Thank you.

Robbie, I pumped the pedal maybe 4 times then cranked the key. It started to catch but then sputtered so I pumped the pedal a couple of times but when it backfired I shut it off.

I'm off tomorrow so I'll try again.

I'm wondering if the cheap-ass battery my friend installed could be too weak.


Your fuel pump needs to be hooked up to the positive terminal on the coil not the negative terminal which would have the green wire attached to it. Hooked up to the wrong terminal the fuel pump might well not run at all and could also stall the engine by killing the ignition.
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
RixiesRide wrote:
Al, I learned from this site about the two barbs when I was looking for the tank for my '79. If I end up having to use it I'll plug the extra nipple. Thank you.

Robbie, I pumped the pedal maybe 4 times then cranked the key. It started to catch but then sputtered so I pumped the pedal a couple of times but when it backfired I shut it off.

I'm off tomorrow so I'll try again.

I'm wondering if the cheap-ass battery my friend installed could be too weak.


Your fuel pump needs to be hooked up to the positive terminal on the coil not the negative terminal which would have the green wire attached to it. Hooked up to the wrong terminal the fuel pump might well not run at all and could also stall the engine by killing the ignition.


Darnit Wildthings! I was hoping that was going to be the problem but looking at this picture it appears to be hooked up correctly.

I went out yesterday morning and tried again to start it. This time I kept the pedal to the floor and it seemed like it was going catch but then it would backfire and die. I'd wait a couple of minutes then try again. After several trys I just shut it down.


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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

check the wire on the distributor,looks like they may be in the wrong order.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7488793#7488793
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
check the wire on the distributor,looks like they may be in the wrong order.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7488793#7488793


Does it matter where the #1 wire is plugged into the distributor?

Looking at the dist through the back door this is what i have
4 3
1 2

Thank you
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
lil-jinx wrote:
check the wire on the distributor,looks like they may be in the wrong order.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7488793#7488793


Does it matter where the #1 wire is plugged into the distributor?

Looking at the dist through the back door this is what i have
4 3
1 2

Thank you


If your wires were on wrong it probably wouldn't have started at all or would have spit and sputtered really bad and had almost no power. That you said that it idled nicely implies the wires were on correctly.
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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

It don't really matter where the #1 wire goes on the distributor,as long as the rotor button points to that terminal when the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
Sputtering and backfire, sounds like a timing problem to me.The #1 position is normally where your #2 is. Is your distributor tight,it may have been left loose enough to turn after the tune-up.
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1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy
1974 parts bus
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
The VW Gods do not want me to have a running bus.

I have a 73 that I had the engine from my 79 swapped into. Empi dual carbs along with the electric fuel pump and centrifugal distributor that was recommended on the installation instructions for the carbs.

A friend did the swap for me and had it running. I took it to a vw shop to get the valves adjusted and a tune up along with repairing the brake system and some other safety isuues.

Picked it up from the shop before work Friday morning. It started up and idled nicely so I drove it acroos the street to load it on the trailer and it did start to sputter as I drove up the ramp but I figured that was because the angle of the gas tank and low on fuel. It idled better on the trailer.

Got him home and he started okay but then sputtered and backfired. My husband went today and got 3 gallons to put in but that didnt help.

The electric fuel pump should work with the fuel sending unit in the '73 tank?

I hope this made sense.

It may be best if you started a new post on this problem. This could turn into pages of diagnosis and will be hard to follow in this thread.
Good luck
Tcash
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Best for me to just trailer it back to the shop that did the tuneup and valve adjustment.

I was hoping it would be something easy like an unplugged wire so I could avoid another $100 each way tow job.

Thanks for suggestions.
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Whats your best guess on dimensions?



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Whats your best guess on dimensions?
[pic]

Well a Porta Potty is 17" X 15" X 16" high, although you'll need a few extra inches around it to get hands in to lift it out when it's loaded unless you put a strap under it first.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RixiesRide wrote:
Best for me to just trailer it back to the shop that did the tuneup and valve adjustment.

I was hoping it would be something easy like an unplugged wire so I could avoid another $100 each way tow job.

Thanks for suggestions.


Assuming your mechanic failed to tighten down the distributor locking clamp and your engine is now badly out of time it would be your mechanics responsibility to set your timing correctly and pay for any towing bills

If you can turn your distributor by hand without loosening the clamp? If the clamp was properly tightened it should not turn.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Whats your best guess on dimensions?

Measure one of your cabinet handle. Scale the handle in the pic to your measurement. Then use that scale to measure the box.
Good luck
Tcash
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
RixiesRide wrote:
Best for me to just trailer it back to the shop that did the tuneup and valve adjustment.

I was hoping it would be something easy like an unplugged wire so I could avoid another $100 each way tow job.

Thanks for suggestions.


Assuming your mechanic failed to tighten down the distributor locking clamp and your engine is now badly out of time it would be your mechanics responsibility to set your timing correctly and pay for any towing bills

If you can turn your distributor by hand without loosening the clamp? If the clamp was properly tightened it should not turn.


Thank you Wildthings.

I spoke to the mechanic and he thinks it's something I can fix myself. He said to remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns freely. He explained what to do and I'm going to look for a video first to see if its something i feel i can do without messing things up.

Sorry Tcash
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

No worries
How to remove and replace the distributor cap and rotor arm on your VW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AkODz1cReI

Hope you get it fixed
Tcash
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RixiesRide
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
No worries
How to remove and replace the distributor cap and rotor arm on your VW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AkODz1cReI

Hope you get it fixed
Tcash


Tcash, thanks for the video. It was more informative than the ones I found.

Unfortunately the rotor was seated properly AND the new ignition switch I put in took a dump. So Mr. Peabody is being towed back to the shop tomorrow.

Good news is I'm going to help my co-worker troubleshoot what's wrong with her '72 Westy. I will start a thread for that one.

And I was able to find one of those elusive '73 turn signal switches in the classifieds so he can replace that for me.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 5:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

As point gap opens or closes, what is the effect on timing? Clearly, one way retards and one way advances. On a gauge, a larger dwell reading means a smaller point gap and vice-versa. I suppose I should have taken notice all these years, but I never strictly observed the exact relationship between dwell and timing. If dwell is too high or too low, I just initiate adjustment procedures of either dwell (depending on reading) or timing (depending on dwell).

I'm also sure there's a way of reasoning it out, but......this is the stupid question thread.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 5:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

When the points close and the dwell increases timing is delayed.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Whats your best guess on dimensions?



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My guess is 20"X18", but I'm going by the handles being 4". Just Kampers sells one for $752 and lists the dimensions as:
Width (CM - Packed) 53.0 (20.89")
Height (CM - Packed) 43.0 (16.93")
Depth (CM - Packed) 45.0 (17.72")

Kent
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

This is probably easier to solve than I know... My 79 Campmobile bed has stopped laying down, that is, it seems to only stay at the 90 degree angle even when it would normally lay down. I'm 6'2" so I can't sleep on a 4 foot bed! Any ideas why it won't behave like it did?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

D/A/N wrote:
As point gap opens or closes, what is the effect on timing? Clearly, one way retards and one way advances. On a gauge, a larger dwell reading means a smaller point gap and vice-versa. I suppose I should have taken notice all these years, but I never strictly observed the exact relationship between dwell and timing. If dwell is too high or too low, I just initiate adjustment procedures of either dwell (depending on reading) or timing (depending on dwell).
I'm also sure there's a way of reasoning it out, but......this is the stupid question thread.

The timing light flashes the instant the points crack open.
So think of timing as happening Earlier (advanced) and Later (retarded).
And likewise think of the points opening Earlier and Later.
So the points opening Earlier (short dwell), would cause the timing light to flash ?
And the points opening Later (larger dwell), would cause the timing light to flash ?
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