Throttle Cable (not wire) Termination

[dgsaz]

First time with dual carbs still learning, details, stuff like that.

I'm ready to install a new throttle cable. Gas pedal rebuilt, tube flushed, ready to install.

To help the long push through the tube I "tinned" the first 6" of the cable. Torch, flux and solder. It's not like working with copper or brass but I got a good coat of lead in the cable. The end is ridged and will not fray.

The cable is a "universal" and has a split or bay end with 30" of pull through slack.

Now with all that said, What is the prefered method of cable termination?

Option 1: Tinning the cable and running it through the cable stop and clamp.

Option 2: Tinning the cable and install the "universal end" through the cable stop and clamp.

Option 3: Same as Option 1 w/o tinning.

Option 4: Same as Option 2 w/o tinning.

OR, Option 4: None of the above. An unknown and unconsidered option I don't know about.

Option 2

OPTION 1

OPTION 2

OPTION 1

PLUMBING SHOT / GAS LINES AND "T".

Anything jumping out that needs addressing?

Thanks to all for the advise and direction.

dgsaz

[Dale M.]

I do option #2(cable through barrel connector) ... BUT I put second barrel connector on cable past the one in arm so if the set screw comes loose or cable slips in connector (in arm) the second connector still gives you some throttle till you can get off to side of road... Learned the dirty little trick at auto cross event when slipping cable cost me a few seconds in time that cost me a win... Also if just put cable directly through connector, tin the end so it does not unravel...

Option #1 never seemed to work quite well for me as cable always ended up to long or to short or pulled out of adapter...

When adjusting throttle cable and carbs.... Force throttle pedal all the way to its WOT stop (have assistant hold it WOT) ... Open throttle linkage at carbs and then tighten set screw on cable... This assure WOT.... BUT be sure there is also enough slack/adjustment in system for carbs to go fully closed...

Also secure fuel line some place where it can not get sucked into fan.. YES I have seen it happen...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[dgsaz]

[chrisflstf]

If you need a clean cut on the braided cable, wrap it with tape and use a cutoff wheel. Makes a clean cut that way with the dremel

[vwracerdave]

I cut the cable with a cut-off wheel. Put a piece of heat shrink tubing on the last inch to prevent fraying. Insert it into the barrel clamp. I have never had any good luck with those adapter ends.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[earthquake]

I like to solder the cable and then cut it and put a drop of solder on the end so its not so pokey, if its a stainless cable it can still be soldered but not as easily.

Casey
_________________
74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]

[theDrew]

i've done option 2, cut it and use super glue to keep it from fraying
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Turbo 2276 MS3X build http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=673125
1985 Vanagon Campmobile w/ 2005 EJ25

[jason]

I like #2. I leave an extra length and put a rubber end on it, for poking. I have used little brass tips that crimp on the end.

[vwracerdave]

I forgot to mention you wipe a thin coat of grease on the entire length of the cable. Clutch cable too.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[clonebug]

I use one of those hardened steel roll pins that will fit through the barrel nut and also allow the cable to pass through.....I then solder it in the correct place and tighten it up in the barrel nut.
I also solder the cable where I want to cut it so it won't fray.

It's worked well for me for around 6 plus years I would guess.
_________________

[57BLITZ]

[dgsaz]

New Option:

I took the "universal end" and drilled the entire length so the cable could pass through rather than just achieve a 1/2" embedment.

I mocked up a sample. Photos attached. The black tape will become shrink shrink tubing AND I'm going to add a second "stop bolt" in the barrel.

It looks like the cable can be bolted from each side of the barrel, keep it straight and relieve the kink that a single bolt will form.

Another option would be an additional cable stop above the fitting.

Heres the pics:

Thanks again everyone.

dgsaz

BTW: that's some old clothes line not my actual throttle cable.......

[neil68]

Another option is to check the various lengths of stock cables. On my IDAs, when I switched from my old, worn out CB top linkage to a Vintage Speed bellcrank linkage, I needed a shorter cable.

Ended up buying the late Beetle cable that has the plastic sheath, plus the threaded end. It's 2 cm shorter than my stock 68 cable. It uses a double-nut that you can fine-tune to length:

http://usstore.concept1.ca/Accel-Cable-T1-74-79-133721555B-38955/
_________________
Neil.

Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

[slalombuggy]

I put my cable loosely in a vise and burn off the extra with a oxy torch and small brazing tip. Melts the end of the cable and if you twist it as you melt it, it doesn't form a ball at the end of the cable. Then I insert it in a cable adapter then into the barrel clamp. I have to run 2 return springs plus the coil spring on the carb itself and have never had a problem with anything pulling apart.

brad