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shenan-agon Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2005 Posts: 423 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 6:20 pm Post subject: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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Well, one problem down, about a thousand more to go...
My van's now running, but idles very fast - not sure how fast...I wish VW had given me a tach in the dash instead of a huge freaking clock. I turned the idle screw all the way in, and no change. I'm thinking either a big vacuum leak or a stuck/dirty throttle; I can rev the engine up with the pedal, but it doesn't drop back any lower than the original fast idle. The idle stabilizer valve shows continuity, but I guess it could be the controller. I haven't tried unplugging it and starting yet. Any quick ideas? |
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weinerwagen Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2004 Posts: 1548 Location: Monterey, CA -Laguna Seca--Coats, Kansas
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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Turn the idle down by the screw embedded in the Throttle Body, or, is the idle compensator history??? Working????
Can you bring the idle down by putting it in gear, forcing the engine down to an idle? Does it stay down at an idle or go back up?
Idle compensator could be not working, is it a 1.9 or a 2.1 or air cooled?
Some of the water boxers have a green box to the left of the engine with two connections. That also could be defective, you can unplug and put the plugs together to bypass it for testing purposes
my guess is the idle compensator |
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BavarianWrench Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2004 Posts: 1045 Location: Oceans Edge
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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I had intermitant fast idle problems on my 86/2.1L. engine kept reving at 2000 rpm. I chased wires, swapped out control units, checked for vacuum leaks, adj settings checked idle switches and nothing was wrong. Yet it would just idle away at 2000 rpm. I got sick of looking at the scales of rust on the intake runners the other day and started scraping them lightly and bingo rust holes in the base of the intake tubes where they meet the intake flange for the head. I was not detecting a leak through any of the usual spots when I searched for vacuum leaks but they were there. I just siliconed over the pin holes until I find a clean intake. This must be common back east. The syncro is from Pa, now living in Co. |
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shenan-agon Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2005 Posts: 423 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies...it's a 2.1. I tried adjusting the idle w/ the screw in the throttle body - still high even turned all the way in (which should normally kill the engine, right?). I haven't tried putting it in gear yet...if it does drop, what does that tell me? |
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weinerwagen Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2004 Posts: 1548 Location: Monterey, CA -Laguna Seca--Coats, Kansas
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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idle compensator is not working, that silver tube looking doo dad is gone, maybe the temp sensor is also going bad or flakey
if tormorow the van dies and dies from too low an idle, check the sensors and the idle compensator...
Throttle body could be gunky, from stuff carbon and all, maybe someday take the boot off and clean the T/B out really good... |
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shenan-agon Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2005 Posts: 423 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 7:52 am Post subject: |
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So, after a bit of a detour involving the throttle body switch (it needed adjustment, but sort of broke in the process...), it looks like the problem is the idle stabilizer. I fired the engine up, and it raced high as usual - unplugged the idle stab. valve...voila! She purrs like a kitten! (Well, it's a Vanagon, but you get the idea). So this tells me it's most likely not a gunked-up and stuck valve, but the electrical signal it's getting from the control module. Agree?
The interesting thing is that it looks like I'm not the first one to play around with the idle stabilizer on this van...there is a section cut out of the plastic panel on the right for easy acess to the module. The original plug is still there attached to the body, but looks like it hasn't been used in a while; there is another harness sitting loose in that area with the module plugged in. I wouldn't be surprised if some water got in while it was sitting there. I'm going to pull the module apart and see if anything is fried - got some good tips after poring through the archives on vanagon.com.... |
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shenan-agon Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2005 Posts: 423 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue May 17, 2005 9:09 am Post subject: |
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Update: there's definitely a fried transistor in there. Same as this post I found on the vanagon.com list; I'm going to try to find a replacement...
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Vanagonauts,
Recently I related the story of my 87 Syncro suddenly developing a +4,400 RPM
idle. I traced this to the Idle Control Module located forward of the
right/rear taillight. The dealer said list was $208. I called several
wreckers and was quoted from $80 to $20 for this item. I bought the $20 one
and it arrived yesterday.
Meanwhile I was pursuing repairing the bad module. Inside the module I
discovered two components that were suspect. The first one, a voltage
stabilizer transistor was definitely fried. I found (from my 88 Vanagon
module) a company logo: SGS in tall narrow letters pushed up against
eachother & other numbers were BD 438 and 9 741. I found that an ECG or NTE
185 was a replacement component for it. The other component was a rectifier
diode that had some signs of being overheated but was not overtly fried as
the other component had been. The diode had the numbers GP15G-7001 and GI
8641. I thingk the GI is for General Instruments. Well, found that it
could be replaced with an NTE 125 or ECG 125.
Yesterday, I installed the two new components and the bottom line is that
after poping the module back in, my van idles normally again!
Cost?
NTE185: $2.25
NTE125: $.88
Total: $3.13 + tax
Compared to dealer list, I saved about $205. - that's 98.5% less!!
So now I've gone from needing a new module to having a spare for future use.
Jim Davis
87 GL Syncro
88 GL Wolfsburg |
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shenan-agon Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2005 Posts: 423 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 8:06 am Post subject: |
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Well, I fixed it! Soldered in a new transistor and diode, and plugged it in...normal idle. $3.78 fix for a $200 part! |
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JonnyPhenomenon Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2009 Posts: 11 Location: Lewiston, Maine, USA, Earth
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Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 5:50 am Post subject: |
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shenan-agon wrote: |
Well, I fixed it! Soldered in a new transistor and diode, and plugged it in...normal idle. $3.78 fix for a $200 part! |
I love a good DIY fix for a stupidly expensive part. Kudos to you Shenanagon! |
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minsk Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2008 Posts: 899 Location: pittsburgh
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minsk Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2008 Posts: 899 Location: pittsburgh
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TopBud Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2004 Posts: 1111 Location: Flagstaff AZ
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Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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any recommendations where to order those parts online?
Thanks _________________ 86 bostig SYNCRO
66 convertible Karmann Ghia |
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minsk Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2008 Posts: 899 Location: pittsburgh
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Marshj Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2017 Posts: 268 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:44 am Post subject: |
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minsk wrote: |
i got mine on flea bay...
i still dont know wich nte125 to replace |
Were you able to ever figure this out?
Have a high idle on my 86 2.1 on startup. At first thought an air leak, bo issues. Then tracked it to ICV ( unplugged ICV wire and noemal idle, also unplug ICU and normal idle ).
When turning on ignition ICV opens then closes, no humming. Any thoughts? |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32635 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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0to60in6min Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2006 Posts: 3417 Location: OR & CA (Oregon/California)
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Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:13 am Post subject: Re: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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besides replacing or rebuilding the idle control module and after that if there's little result.. you could do this
in the back of the idle control valve (ICV) there's a small allen screw to adjust the idle... |
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Goodie Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2016 Posts: 6 Location: MN
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Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 1:25 pm Post subject: Re: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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Locations of NTB185 and NTB125 (before and after).
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OldBlueSyncro Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2018 Posts: 206 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:00 pm Post subject: Re: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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Goodie wrote: |
Locations of NTB185 and NTB125 (before and after).
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Any idea what resistor is in the foreground of the bottom image? The big grey out of focused one. |
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dhaavers Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 7757 Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:24 pm Post subject: Re: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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Found this other pic in Goodie's gallery:
Resistor in question seems to be marked "66R 10%"...whatever that means...
- Dave _________________ 86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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OldBlueSyncro Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2018 Posts: 206 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:42 pm Post subject: Re: Idle Control Module issue (high idle) & cheap fix |
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dhaavers wrote: |
Found this other pic in Goodie's gallery:
Resistor in question seems to be marked "66R 10%"...whatever that means...
- Dave |
Thanks for that picture! It shows everything much better. I know so little about circuit boards. I believe its 56r printed on there.
I already soldered the NTE185 into my idle control module, but this 56r 10% has a small burnt spot on the side of it. I bought this( https://canada.newark.com/ohmite/oy560ke/resistor-ceramic-56-ohm-2w-10/dp/64K5435?st=56r%2010% ) to replace it but I'm not sure if it's the right replacement for that resistor. Dont want to solder it in and mess up more things in this module. |
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