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The Stupid Question Thread
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CanStan
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

It's just cardboard tubing. The same stuff used on the engine from the fan shroud to the heater boxes only a smaller diameter. Maybe this would work?
http://store.concept1.ca/Preheat-Hose-26MM-ID-211255359-WW/
I recall it's just slipped inside the metal vent piece, and over top of the round metal tube at the other end. No clamps or anything that I can recall
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

CanStan wrote:
It's just cardboard tubing. The same stuff used on the engine from the fan shroud to the heater boxes only a smaller diameter. Maybe this would work?
http://store.concept1.ca/Preheat-Hose-26MM-ID-211255359-WW/
I recall it's just slipped inside the metal vent piece, and over top of the round metal tube at the other end. No clamps or anything that I can recall

26mm sounds too small, I recall digging through the universal preheat hose assortment at my FLAPS to find the correct size (90's GM IIRC), it exists, but it's not a VW part.
You are correct that there's no clamps, the valve jams into the nipple in the floor and the vent bolts down, the hose is just a slip fit between the two.
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CanStan
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
26mm sounds too small


You're right! My mistake. I just went and measured some and they are actually 42mm ID.
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hiwaycallin
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 1:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How do I remove the distributor from my stock '78 bus? Is it as simple as loosening the clamp at the bottom all the way and pulling up? Or is there more to it? Thanks in advance!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

hiwaycallin wrote:
How do I remove the distributor from my stock '78 bus? Is it as simple as loosening the clamp at the bottom all the way and pulling up? Or is there more to it? Thanks in advance!

Leave the clamp on and remove the nut securing the clamp to the case, then pull up.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Spray the hole under the clamp with some wd40, it will lube the oring and make it easier to slide out.
When the dist. is out. Don't rotate the engine CCW (counter clock wise) it can spit the dist. drive gear out and loose its timing.
Good luck
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hiwaycallin
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks guys!
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Convoy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is the 78 metal filler hose (the long version that goes from filler neck to gas tank) interchangeable on a 74 bus that originally has the shorter metal filler hose?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:37 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Convoy wrote:
Is the 78 metal filler hose (the long version that goes from filler neck to gas tank) interchangeable on a 74 bus that originally has the shorter metal filler hose?

Yes.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Fuel tank filler hose FAQ
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Convoy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks. My intent is to buy a used longer filler tube from a later model so I may get a EFI return line welded into it (closer to the tank inlet). I know its a no go on welding on my gas tank but is is safe to weld on a used filler hose?? other route would get exhaust tubing, like in the link, and get a return fitting welded on that instead.
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:40 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Will a 32/36 dfav Weber progressive carburetor work with the distributor bearing the part number 021 905 205 P?

asking for a friend Embarassed
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

secretsubmariner wrote:
Will a 32/36 dfav Weber progressive carburetor work with the distributor bearing the part number 021 905 205 P?

asking for a friend Embarassed


The 021-905-205P and the 022-905-205S would be the preferred distributors.
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Convoy wrote:
I know its a no go on welding on my gas tank but is is safe to weld on a used filler hose?? other route would get exhaust tubing, like in the link, and get a return fitting welded on that instead.

If it's removed from the bus, should be no problem. Welding is good for steel to steel joints. I brazed my return tube on. Remove the tube zinc coating in the braze area with some hydrochloric acid. When brazing is complete, paint the outside with some zinc-based paint for rust prevention.
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 11:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Friend of mine has a California fuel injected bus. I have never peeked inside the engine compartment, so I will take his word on what his set up is. He is complaining that he's burned up two different condensers and last three weeks and is convinced that these new parts are garbage. I agree with that thought to a large extent, but what I am concerned with is that he has burned up condensers.

Outside of leaving the ignition on, what would cause that?
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asiab3
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 12:37 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wasted youth wrote:
Friend of mine has a California fuel injected bus. I have never peeked inside the engine compartment, so I will take his word on what his set up is. He is complaining that he's burned up two different condensers and last three weeks and is convinced that these new parts are garbage. I agree with that thought to a large extent, but what I am concerned with is that he has burned up condensers.

Outside of leaving the ignition on, what would cause that?


I used to think that hooking up the coil backwards (switch positive and negative) could do that, but BusBoyTom had his backwards for the better part of a decade and routinely saw 19mpg before he corrected it……

3 of the 5 new Bosch condensers were bad out of the box for me and customer cars in the last two years. When they got hot, my ignition cut out. After cooling, the car would run normally.

Differential diagnosis: Car ran for 10 minutes from cold start before bucking. Car would buck 1-2 minutes after hot start. After leaving the distributor in the freezer all night, installing, and immediately firing up, car ran for 25 minutes without bucking.

Robbie

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 2:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I don't run any new Bosch tune up parts any more, they are the worst junk out there.
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williamM
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 2:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Wasted youth wrote:
Friend of mine has a California fuel injected bus. I have never peeked inside the engine compartment, so I will take his word on what his set up is. He is complaining that he's burned up two different condensers and last three weeks and is convinced that these new parts are garbage. I agree with that thought to a large extent, but what I am concerned with is that he has burned up condensers.

Outside of leaving the ignition on, what would cause that?


I used to think that hooking up the coil backwards (switch positive and negative) could do that, but BusBoyTom had his backwards for the better part of a decade

After leaving the distributor in the freezer all night, installing, and immediately firing up, car ran for 25 minutes without bucking.

Robbie

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Geesz- Robbie- get some ice cream and some pot pies at least.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 6:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Something!!
I bet there's beer on the other side...
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 7:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Condenser Failure in Conventional Ignition Systems
Steve Maas
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/

Testing condensers
https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?s=91...amp;page=2
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