engine number verification

[Edge540]

Hi,
In researching my engine number, it looks to be a 1967 1500. Is this correct?
I have a 1965 DC but i have docs which state the engine was replaced by a vw dealer after a couple years.
On another note, if I want to rebuild this engine myself, what vendor/s is best for engine parts, i.e. bearing, cyl/pistons, maybe crank, etc.

[Eric&Barb]

Looks like Jan67 date.

Engine parts will depend if you are going to go totally stock or close to that, stroked, or drag race. If the first type of engine rebuild look for German parts or parts that you can search in the forums here as of being of good quality. If you are going stock, or close to that you should consider getting a counter weighted forged crankshaft and the Maxi 2 CB filter/oil pump for better driving longer lasting engine.
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[Edge540]

Thank you for the confirmation. Thats kind of what i thought but was unsure if the "0" in front of the 3 was part of the "H0" or not and if it was an O or a zero.
Anyway, the rebuild will be stock.
In restoring the truck i would like to go as factory as possible.
Thank you
Eric

[Eric&Barb]

Glad to help!

Are you wanting to do long distance drives on the highways or just around town?
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[Edge540]

It will be just putting around town mostly with a possible three hour drive to the lake thrown in once a year or two. No cross country drives. I'm not expecting the truck to do more than 55-60 mph so the longer drives will be back roads. The highways here are marked either 70 or 75 mph and I'm not risking it.
I'm currently reading a book called "how to rebuild your Volkswagen engine" written by Tom Wilson in 1987. Seems like a good book thus far.

[Eric&Barb]

Back roads are nice, but had plenty of experience with rude drivers passing dangerously on uphill blind curves, when a bus tends to slow down. Definitely consider using 1600 P&Cs with a 74mm stroke CW crankshaft, instead of the stock 69mm stroke. That will give you more power and torque to keep up with the traffic. Can be built to look totally stock 1500 on the outside.

Would also suggest getting a later duel relief engine case for both better oil cooling with doghouse cooler (upgrade to type 4 cooler that is 40% bigger than stock DH), and case is stronger. The old H cases tend to let head studs pull out when they get hot and the aluminum/magnesium alloy softens...

These old ACVW engines like the 2,500-3,000 RPM for cruising. Much over 3,000 RPM and you get a lot less engine longevity. We used to do 3,800 RPM just to do 55 MPH with early 1960s stock transaxle. Result was rebuilding engine every 30,000 to 40,000 miles when noticeable not being able to climb the local hills as well.

Went to 3,000 RPM for cruising. Next engine lasted 80,000 miles and was pulled due to too much end play, it was otherwise working like new.

Installed a 3.875 ring and pinion transaxle AKA Freeway Flier transaxle, so we could do 3,000 RPM @ 60 MPH with slightly larger than stock rear tires. Had a 1641cc SP engine with CW 69mm crankshaft built, and now have over 150,000 miles on that engine since was last rebuilt. Getting about 22 MPG on the freeway. Get lots of thumbs up and smiles from those passing us....

We love totally stock engines, but in the case of a bus that is going to be driven, one just needs more HP/torque to keep up with traffic today.

"How to rebuild your Volkswagen engine" is a great book, but now dated. Do read a lot in the "Performance / Engines / transmissions" forum, for more up to date info.
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[BarryL]

[Edge540]

Eric,
Thank you very much for that advice. I will have to think hard before making a decision on which route to go.

Barry,
Unfortunately, the engine that came with this double cab arrived in the bed when i got it. Its just a short block. I don't know why the cylinders were removed. I'm not totally sure this is the one which replaced the original engine or not. Unfortunately the dealer did not write the engine number on the work order sheet.

Thanks
Eric

[Abscate]

Check the VIN and engine number resources above and see if the numbers are " aligned " with respect to the build runs. That will give you 90% confidence your engine is original. The numbers matching thing appeals to a small subset of trailer queen buyers so don't go crazy over it.
That 1500 will be fine in back roads, pull over to let people pass on hills, use your hazards and wave
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