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Tom Butler
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 5:58 pm    Post subject: Pertronix Reply with quote

Has anyone seen WITH YOUR OWN EYES (not a friend of a friend or seeing threads here) multiple pertronix SVDA distributors fail?

Has anyone here ever tried to return or exchange a pertronix module or entire distributor due to it being faulty?

I hear alot of talk about how they are POS and so on and so forth but does anyone have any REAL proof?

I personally think that user error during install is the cause of most if not all of these problems.


So I ask again. Anyone here who actually knew what they were doing install a pertronix and have it fail where you could actually say it was FOR SURE the distributor being a "POS" ?

I am just wondering cause EVERY single thread where someone mentions the dirty word "Pertronix" inevitably there chimes in someone who says they are "JUNK" and then coincedentally someone who is selling "restored GERMAN distributors" lets them know they have one for sale.

Is this just cause you guys want to make money on restoring those distributors or is this a real problem?

I have a pertronix in my SB and have had ZERO problems with it but I did ALOT of research on how to install the dist before I did it.
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Knusprige Flicken
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

I purchased mine with the corresponding Pertronix coil, installed it correctly,
Car fired right up, but as I was setting the timing, I noticed that at idle the timing was not steady, like it was with the 009 I was replacing it with. This caused it to idle like crap, timing varied 4 degrees at idle, with vacuum line plugged. When timing it at 2500-3000 rpm for max advance, the pertronix would advance but it was jerky, almost like the weights were sticky. The advance wasnt smooth at all. I thought I'd use it like it was because it beat the hell out of the 009 and 34-3 combo that was on the car when I got it.
Used it for a couple months, advance never did get any smoother, I had thought maybe it would loosen up after use. Idled like crap, surging, drifting.
Then while in my garage, gettibg it ready for my son to take to Pigeon forge rod run, it died, no spark, nada zip zilch
I had purchased a 205an from Tasb in the meanwhile, so we swapped it in and guess what?
The car idled smoothly, the timing wasnt drifting at idle, it advanced smoothly as it should
That was a year ago and still no problems, other than a little points adjusting and some grease
Im glad you've had good luck with your pertronix, I wish you many miles of happy contented motoring with it. I didnt have such luck with mine, but I'm sure that someone will say I didn't install it correctly or I wired it backwards, or I should have installed it during a full moon or whatever.
I used it for a couple months, it didnt perform to my liking when it worked, and then the damn thing had the unmitigated gall to take a shit on me, luckily while parked in my garage
No thank you, you can keep that Chinese garbage, Ive learned my lesson
I'll continue to purchase NOS or rebuilt german from the people who rebuild them, or as a toolmaker , I have considered reverse engineering what I need and building it from scratch, Billet style
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Knusprige Flicken wrote:
I purchased mine with the corresponding Pertronix coil, installed it correctly,
Car fired right up, but as I was setting the timing, I noticed that at idle the timing was not steady, like it was with the 009 I was replacing it with. This caused it to idle like crap, timing varied 4 degrees at idle, with vacuum line plugged. When timing it at 2500-3000 rpm for max advance, the pertronix would advance but it was jerky, almost like the weights were sticky. The advance wasnt smooth at all. I thought I'd use it like it was because it beat the hell out of the 009 and 34-3 combo that was on the car when I got it.
Used it for a couple months, advance never did get any smoother, I had thought maybe it would loosen up after use. Idled like crap, surging, drifting.
Then while in my garage, gettibg it ready for my son to take to Pigeon forge rod run, it died, no spark, nada zip zilch
I had purchased a 205an from Tasb in the meanwhile, so we swapped it in and guess what?
The car idled smoothly, the timing wasnt drifting at idle, it advanced smoothly as it should
That was a year ago and still no problems, other than a little points adjusting and some grease
Im glad you've had good luck with your pertronix, I wish you many miles of happy contented motoring with it. I didnt have such luck with mine, but I'm sure that someone will say I didn't install it correctly or I wired it backwards, or I should have installed it during a full moon or whatever.
I used it for a couple months, it didnt perform to my liking when it worked, and then the damn thing had the unmitigated gall to take a shit on me, luckily while parked in my garage
No thank you, you can keep that Chinese garbage, Ive learned my lesson
I'll continue to purchase NOS or rebuilt german from the people who rebuild them, or as a toolmaker , I have considered reverse engineering what I need and building it from scratch, Billet style



Awesome. We need more posts like this explaining what actually happened.

I thank you for you post.

I honestly just want to shed some light on this whole issue cause it seems like "pertronix" is used as a fix all boogie man.
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Knusprige Flicken
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Oh , I almost forgot the best part😃 The distributor from Tasb wasnt that much more expensive than the Chinese pertronix
Well worth it in my opinion
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Tom Butler wrote:
Knusprige Flicken wrote:
I purchased mine with the corresponding Pertronix coil, installed it correctly,
Car fired right up, but as I was setting the timing, I noticed that at idle the timing was not steady, like it was with the 009 I was replacing it with. This caused it to idle like crap, timing varied 4 degrees at idle, with vacuum line plugged. When timing it at 2500-3000 rpm for max advance, the pertronix would advance but it was jerky, almost like the weights were sticky. The advance wasnt smooth at all. I thought I'd use it like it was because it beat the hell out of the 009 and 34-3 combo that was on the car when I got it.
Used it for a couple months, advance never did get any smoother, I had thought maybe it would loosen up after use. Idled like crap, surging, drifting.
Then while in my garage, gettibg it ready for my son to take to Pigeon forge rod run, it died, no spark, nada zip zilch
I had purchased a 205an from Tasb in the meanwhile, so we swapped it in and guess what?
The car idled smoothly, the timing wasnt drifting at idle, it advanced smoothly as it should
That was a year ago and still no problems, other than a little points adjusting and some grease
Im glad you've had good luck with your pertronix, I wish you many miles of happy contented motoring with it. I didnt have such luck with mine, but I'm sure that someone will say I didn't install it correctly or I wired it backwards, or I should have installed it during a full moon or whatever.
I used it for a couple months, it didnt perform to my liking when it worked, and then the damn thing had the unmitigated gall to take a shit on me, luckily while parked in my garage
No thank you, you can keep that Chinese garbage, Ive learned my lesson
I'll continue to purchase NOS or rebuilt german from the people who rebuild them, or as a toolmaker , I have considered reverse engineering what I need and building it from scratch, Billet style



Awesome. We need more posts like this explaining what actually happened.

I thank you for you post.

I honestly just want to shed some light on this whole issue cause it seems like "pertronix" is used as a fix all boogie man.


😊
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

No failures out of the box...Have have issues with vac advance being limited by the grommet interfering...Not hard to fix.

Have seen plenty of older ones with the rotor being too high....Last one was about a year ago, but I dont know how old the stock was. But knew the rotor issue from installing the modules on stock distributors. Always check that before installing....

The thing is that the quality is not as good as OE....If you compare the parts quality of the Pertronix with German or Mex Bosch units, it's quite a bit of a difference. And I prefer using good used or for special cases (or my own cars) I do still have a couple Mex Bosch SVDAs in my stash.

I also have rebuilts from TASB, Glenn and I think someone else on here in some of my own cars.

So - bottom line from a shop owner - there is a difference. The Pertronix is decent relative to other new ones being sold. But give me a choice between an Pertronix 009 and Glenn's 019? Or an SVDA from TASB and a Pertronix? Nothing to even ponder.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
No failures out of the box...Have have issues with vac advance being limited by the grommet interfering...Not hard to fix.

Have seen plenty of older ones with the rotor being too high....Last one was about a year ago, but I dont know how old the stock was. But knew the rotor issue from installing the modules on stock distributors. Always check that before installing....

The thing is that the quality is not as good as OE....If you compare the parts quality of the Pertronix with German or Mex Bosch units, it's quite a bit of a difference. And I prefer using good used or for special cases (or my own cars) I do still have a couple Mex Bosch SVDAs in my stash.

I also have rebuilts from TASB, Glenn and I think someone else on here in some of my own cars.

So - bottom line from a shop owner - there is a difference. The Pertronix is decent relative to other new ones being sold. But give me a choice between an Pertronix 009 and Glenn's 019? Or an SVDA from TASB and a Pertronix? Nothing to even ponder.


Thanks andy I appreciate it.

I also would choose an OG one from those guys over my pertronix and actually I am trying to save up for a 034 that I can either send out to be rebuilt or buy one from one of the guys so Im not trying to be devisive here.

I just wanted some real information from people who have had them fail. so maybe we can understand what the problem is and...(maybe selfishly so I can prevent mine from failing) Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Had a module fail while motor was rblt. Flaps took it back and said pertronix would credit him after recieving module back and verification of date of manufacture. Pertronix has been around forever. Seen one in a long neglected dodge 60's truck a couple weeks ago.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

I did read somewhere that a possible cause of module failure was a generator with a mechanical voltage regulator setup sometimes would supply varying voltage to the module, causing it to burn out. Also have read that it is susceptible to picking up stray voltage from nearby wires, kinda hard to shield a distributor from induced voltage.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

I've seen, first hand, a handful that had the vacuum canister fail. I've tested a few and found the curve varies from unit to unit.

The distributor is made in China, but the actual Pertronix module is made in the USA.

From my understanding, Pertronix will replace failed units. But that don't fix the curve.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
I've seen, first hand, a handful that had the vacuum canister fail. I've tested a few and found the curve varies from unit to unit.

The distributor is made in China, but the actual Pertronix module is made in the USA.

From my understanding, Pertronix will replace failed units. But that don't fix the curve.


Thanks Glenn I appreciate your response.

You have probably forgotten more about these distributors than I will ever know.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Cranking the engine with all the spark plugs removed will kill a Pertronix module. This could happen when performing a compression test. Disconnecting the ignition wire at coil solves this problem. So watch them compression tests! happened to me, happened to a friend a decade later. Pertronix confirmed that this can happen. otherwise many decades of trouble free use on several cars, its a good device.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:27 pm    Post subject: Cranking Engine With Live Ignition and Spark Plugs Removed Reply with quote

I wouldnt recommend cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed and ignition live with or without an electronic switching module - you can damage ignition electronics or the igintion coil and more importantly the HT side of the coils is still live and can give you quite a shock. There are many articles out there that indicate that removing a HT lead in car with electronic ignition can damage the ignition system by a power surge.
This means if you a have a points replacement electronic switching unit you should not:
1) pull a plug lead off while running the engine.
2) run the engine with a spark plug removed.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Cranking Engine With Live Ignition and Spark Plugs Removed Reply with quote

Meiang wrote:
I wouldnt recommend cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed and ignition live with or without an electronic switching module - you can damage ignition electronics or the igintion coil and more importantly the HT side of the coils is still live and can give you quite a shock. There are many articles out there that indicate that removing a HT lead in car with electronic ignition can damage the ignition system by a power surge.
This means if you a have a points replacement electronic switching unit you should not:
1) pull a plug lead off while running the engine.
2) run the engine with a spark plug removed.


This is good stuff.

I really appreciate the input guys. this is the hard info we need.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Cranking Engine With Live Ignition and Spark Plugs Removed Reply with quote

Meiang wrote:
I wouldnt recommend cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed and ignition live with or without an electronic switching module - you can damage ignition electronics or the igintion coil and more importantly the HT side of the coils is still live and can give you quite a shock. There are many articles out there that indicate that removing a HT lead in car with electronic ignition can damage the ignition system by a power surge.
This means if you a have a points replacement electronic switching unit you should not:
1) pull a plug lead off while running the engine.
2) run the engine with a spark plug removed.


You just need to ground the high tension lead. Easy to do with a test wire which has alligator clips on both ends.

Instead of just pulling the plug wire, you need to ground it. Spend a few momments and set up the engine for a cylinder drop test.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Cranking Engine With Live Ignition and Spark Plugs Removed Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Meiang wrote:
I wouldnt recommend cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed and ignition live with or without an electronic switching module - you can damage ignition electronics or the igintion coil and more importantly the HT side of the coils is still live and can give you quite a shock. There are many articles out there that indicate that removing a HT lead in car with electronic ignition can damage the ignition system by a power surge.
This means if you a have a points replacement electronic switching unit you should not:
1) pull a plug lead off while running the engine.
2) run the engine with a spark plug removed.


You just need to ground the high tension lead. Easy to do with a test wire which has alligator clips on both ends.

Instead of just pulling the plug wire, you need to ground it. Spend a few momments and set up the engine for a cylinder drop test.


I like where this thread is going. The little nuggets of info are percolating
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Cranking Engine With Live Ignition and Spark Plugs Removed Reply with quote

Meiang wrote:
I wouldnt recommend cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed and ignition live with or without an electronic switching module - you can damage ignition electronics or the igintion coil and more importantly the HT side of the coils is still live and can give you quite a shock. There are many articles out there that indicate that removing a HT lead in car with electronic ignition can damage the ignition system by a power surge.
This means if you a have a points replacement electronic switching unit you should not:
1) pull a plug lead off while running the engine.
2) run the engine with a spark plug removed.

correct
That is why I state to remove the ignition wire off the coil first, that prevents the coil and pertronix from being powered whilest cranking.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:58 am    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Given the distributor ignition module is a user fit item (not talking about the whole distributor here) it is very likely that item is subject to a lot of improper handling and fitment by the persons fitting them and subsequently in operation by exposing the unit to conditions it is not designed to withstand, so there is a high chance that there will be unit failures.

I suspect that Pertonix have sold a lot of the points replacement units over the years (many thousands I expect). For the product to be of a substandard quality you would expect a huge number of complaints. I am not aware of that being the case in the forum posts (unless others can correct me).
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:28 am    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Knusprige Flicken wrote:
I did read somewhere that a possible cause of module failure was a generator with a mechanical voltage regulator setup sometimes would supply varying voltage to the module, causing it to burn out. Also have read that it is susceptible to picking up stray voltage from nearby wires, kinda hard to shield a distributor from induced voltage.


I have seen 3 things cause the module to fail. Reversed power connections and defective voltage regulator (excessive voltage) and chaffed wires inside the distributor.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:29 am    Post subject: Re: Pertronix Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
I've seen, first hand, a handful that had the vacuum canister fail. I've tested a few and found the curve varies from unit to unit.

The distributor is made in China, but the actual Pertronix module is made in the USA.

From my understanding, Pertronix will replace failed units. But that don't fix the curve.


So it would seem that a reliable set up would be an OG distributor with a Pertronix points replacement module. That way you'd get a full, smooth advancement curve, with the reliability of integrated circuitry to trigger the spark.
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