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The Stupid Question Thread
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Jeremy1984
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PatterBon wrote:
awreed wrote:
Another turn signal question.

Turn signals- all of 'em- stopped working today suddenly. No indicator light either. Bulb is good. The flashers work. Checked all wiring and it's still in place. Barring any other catastrophic failures, has my turn signal switch simply given up? Internal connections in the switch failed?


Mine will occasionally do that. I just mess with the emergency flasher knob and it fixes it every time. I couldn't tell you why beyond the fact that they're both connected to the flasher relay, but it works


You could check for power at the flasher, depending on the setup, 49 would be power in to the flasher, 49a would be the load wire to the turn signal switch (black/green/white) also check the ground on the flasher. Might bypass the flasher and power up the load wire going to the turn signal switch just to check the circuit and narrow it down to switch, flasher, etc. If it's just turn signals you lost, may also check terminal 15 on the hazard switch, that should be a keyed hot
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SpaceInvader77
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:54 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So I have a question.... haven't had my beetle for too long and have finally began to work on it. Problem is, the last time I drove it I turned the headlights on and now they won't turn off. Since its been sitting I've had to disconnect the negative battery cable to keep it from dying. So finally my actual question.... what would be possible causes for this and how would I fix this?
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Jeremy1984
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

On the stock wiring, power for the headlight switch came from the ignition switch. Check terminal 30 on the headlight switch and possibly the x terminal depending on year, to see where it's getting power from. It should only have power when the key is on.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

More than likely a bad wire or improperly connected wire. I have also seen a few switches go bad.

If they do not turn off with the switch, try removing the white wire 12 gauge, from the headlight switch.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

window regulators....whats best? what years are interchangable/fit/made to fit? how the hell do I know what year doors are on my bug???are the short ones better than the long pretzel shapers ones or pretzels better?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 1:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
window regulators....whats best? what years are interchangable/fit/made to fit? how the hell do I know what year doors are on my bug???are the short ones better than the long pretzel shapers ones or pretzels better?


All aftermarket regs suck! VW made dual post regs in 68, 69 that are awesome. Those are the ones needed for 1- piece windows, due to strenght.
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Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look.


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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

so duel post??the ones that look like pretzels?
and how did you know I have those effed up 1 peace of shite windows Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

why else does one ask that question?

They still take a little bit to dial in, but they work so much better. They also help with the shuuuuuuuder!
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:32 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I see the 65-67 also listed that look like this are they the same? thanks for all the info,the ner one lasted about 7 years on pass side.it never was right, drivers side has always been great. gonna need to replace door pannel too...crap.
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LucKaS
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Would performing a compression test give different results on a warm vs a cold engine? By warm I mean I drove it home from work - which is about 20 miles with the speed most of the time being 50-60 mph - and then it sat for about 90 minutes.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

LucKaS wrote:
Would performing a compression test give different results on a warm vs a cold engine?


Yes.
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LucKaS
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:
LucKaS wrote:
Would performing a compression test give different results on a warm vs a cold engine?


Yes.


I have a feeling I already know the answer, but I'll ask anyways.... Would the results be higher, or lower on said warm engine? Confused
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What do you think the answer is, and what is the logic behind it?
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I think it would be higher because when the engine is warm the metal in it expands, which would make the engine more "air tight". Kind of like when you put a little bit of oil in a cylinder with a low CR to see if that brings it up.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Correct. Applause
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I doubt any change after 90 min.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I get home from work.
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SBD
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Here's a question. In a pure stock configuration, would a 1970 SP engine with a 30PICT/3 carb and a 1972 DP engine with a 34PICT/3 carb both measure the same height at the air horn where the air cleaner mounts?
I might have to swap out the SP motor in my kit car for a DP motor I have. The air cleaner is just barely touching the engine lid at times now. I'd hate to put in the other engine and find out it was taller and an air cleaner won't fit. I'd measure mine but the intake manifold isn't on the DP motor right now. TIA!
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I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:
Correct. Applause


Looks like we were both wrong. Here’s the numbers I got on both tests:

Warm
1. 120
2. 120
3. 112
4. 115

Cold (sat for a full day)
1. 122
2. 122
3. 114
4. 115

Looks to me like 3 and 4 are going down hill a little. The motor was rebuilt by the PO, what I find interesting is that the1/2 side has an original head, and 3/4 has been replaced with an aftermarket head of some sort.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Quite interesting, normally they're higher when warm due to tolerances closing up. Are the valves adjusted to .006" cold and is the starter turning the engine over at the same speed warm as cold?

While 3 and 4 are a bit lower than 1 and 2, they're still quite in tolerance of being within 10psi from highest to lowest.
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