| Author |
Message |
ryyanking
Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2015
Posts: 17
Location: Seattle, Wa
|
 Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 2:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
 |
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| ryyanking wrote: |
That's a water heated choke! Oh no, what does the electrical connection coming from it do then?
What part of it do you need to see to narrow it down? |
Well I didn't see an electrical connector and it looks like a watercooled one, is there a wire on it somewhere? |
Sorry, all my highlighting sort of hid it!
Now that you gave me a direction to research, it looks like it's an electric assist water choke Holley 5200 from what I've found online. Probably worth it to upgrade to an actual weber progressive or dual webers if I can yea? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51129
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 3:29 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| ryyanking wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| ryyanking wrote: |
That's a water heated choke! Oh no, what does the electrical connection coming from it do then?
What part of it do you need to see to narrow it down? |
Well I didn't see an electrical connector and it looks like a watercooled one, is there a wire on it somewhere? |
Sorry, all my highlighting sort of hid it!
[pic]
Now that you gave me a direction to research, it looks like it's an electric assist water choke Holley 5200 from what I've found online. Probably worth it to upgrade to an actual weber progressive or dual webers if I can yea? |
Ahhh, I see it now.
The Holley isn't a bad carb, if the shafts aren't worn you'd be better off jetting it properly (in case it isn't now) while you save for a set of duals, a new EMPI isn't going to be an improvement over what's there now. A real Weber might be a slight improvement, but again... save your money for duals.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Fish
Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2000
Posts: 5559
Location: OB. It's beside the point.
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
" Re: The Stupid Question Thread"
Is there just a general thread on Bay window campers. How to ID which Westy kit you have or just on Tin Tops?
_________________
Prosit!
.·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·..><((((º>
.·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·..><((((º>
# 303 and #156
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cv66seabear
Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2017
Posts: 105
Location: Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 1:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Alas, I went out to start Pancho after taking him to a car show Saturday, and he wouldn't start. Starter cranked really wel and didn't catch. Next turn of the key, starter sounded like the battery was dying urnh, urnh, urhnnn. Next turn, same thing. Hook it up to the battery charger - shows full power, and cranking is the same result. Charged the battery anyway to ensure it is full, same result this morning.
Type IV engine all original, recently replaced fuel lines, plugs, distributor cap, fuel injectors and added a cold start relay(?). (shop in Mesa, AZ, not me) Always harder to start when you stop for a few minutes (hot engine).
Note - I did give it a little gas with the pedal
My thoughts:
1. Not getting gas
2. Starter is failing
3. "I suspect Nargles"
When I picked him up, the starter did kind of sound hit or miss. Bus Daddy said to clean the connections, but I'll be honest, I'm not sure where the starter is. can I get to it from the top through the engine hatch under the bed?
_________________
"Not all who wander are lost." JRR Tolkien
1979 Campmobile - "Pancho Verde"
Old Friends - gone now:
1964 Beetle "Liebchen"
Mark 3 Jetta "Liebchen Zwei"
Passat Wagon "Wolf"
2015 Passat Sedan "Rudy"
Last edited by cv66seabear on Sat Sep 23, 2017 9:12 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 2:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Fish wrote: |
" Re: The Stupid Question Thread"
Is there just a general thread on Bay window campers. How to ID which Westy kit you have or just on Tin Tops? |
Westfalia Interiors (lots of Pix)
Good luck
Tcash |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
So i think I might have made a goof when ordering parts off of air-cooled.net. I have been having an oil pressure issue with my bus after I rebuilt the motor and I wasn't sure what it is but now I am suspecting it could be the oil pump. I have a single relief 1600 and I ordered this oil pump.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Schadek-26mm-Oil-Pump-8mm-Pump-Studs-111-115-107-p/111-115-107akhd.htm
I was reading on a post in this forum that said.
“VWC-111-115-107-AKS - OIL PUMP - H-D 26MM GEARS 8MM HOLES - FITS 70-79 DUAL RELIEF CASE W/ FLAT CAM - (WITH 15MM INLET OIL GALLEY) “
VWC-311-115-107-AKHD - HEAVY DUTY OIL PUMP 26MM GEARS 8MM HOLES - FITS 1500CC - BEETLE/GHIA/BUS/TYPE 3 68-69 - (WITH 10MM INLET OIL GALLEY)
If that is correct, then what I need to order is this. Should there have been a noticeable difference between the products in use? I know that the pump I have on if I go by the part numbers has a larger oil inlet. Would that adversely affect my engine?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-311-115-107-AHD
_________________
Click to view image
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-27771.png |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51129
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| beatles4 wrote: |
So i think I might have made a goof when ordering parts off of air-cooled.net. I have been having an oil pressure issue with my bus after I rebuilt the motor and I wasn't sure what it is but now I am suspecting it could be the oil pump. I have a single relief 1600 and I ordered this oil pump.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Schadek-26mm-Oil-Pump-8mm-Pump-Studs-111-115-107-p/111-115-107akhd.htm
I was reading on a post in this forum that said.
“VWC-111-115-107-AKS - OIL PUMP - H-D 26MM GEARS 8MM HOLES - FITS 70-79 DUAL RELIEF CASE W/ FLAT CAM - (WITH 15MM INLET OIL GALLEY) “
VWC-311-115-107-AKHD - HEAVY DUTY OIL PUMP 26MM GEARS 8MM HOLES - FITS 1500CC - BEETLE/GHIA/BUS/TYPE 3 68-69 - (WITH 10MM INLET OIL GALLEY)
If that is correct, then what I need to order is this. Should there have been a noticeable difference between the products in use? I know that the pump I have on if I go by the part numbers has a larger oil inlet. Would that adversely affect my engine?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-311-115-107-AHD |
What do the inlet and outlet holes in your case measure?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Fish
Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2000
Posts: 5559
Location: OB. It's beside the point.
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Tcash wrote: |
| Fish wrote: |
" Re: The Stupid Question Thread"
Is there just a general thread on Bay window campers. How to ID which Westy kit you have or just on Tin Tops? |
Westfalia Interiors (lots of Pix)
Good luck
Tcash |
Perfect. Thank you.
_________________
Prosit!
.·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·..><((((º>
.·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·..><((((º>
# 303 and #156
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
SamboSamba22
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 9:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
So... I tracked down an extremely solid sliding door for the '73 I'm working on. But the door has the separate opening for the lock. How difficult is it going to be to transplant the hardware over? Is there any real difference besides where the lock is located?
Thanks. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51129
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 11:06 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Target wrote: |
So... I tracked down an extremely solid sliding door for the '73 I'm working on. But the door has the separate opening for the lock. How difficult is it going to be to transplant the hardware over? Is there any real difference besides where the lock is located?
Thanks. |
Super difficult, the early door shares none of it's hardware with the late one. Luckily either one fits the hole in the bus as long as it's a complete door.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 11:12 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Target wrote: |
So... I tracked down an extremely solid sliding door for the '73 I'm working on. But the door has the separate opening for the lock. How difficult is it going to be to transplant the hardware over? Is there any real difference besides where the lock is located?
Thanks. |
Super difficult, the early door shares none of it's hardware with the late one. Luckily either one fits the hole in the bus as long as it's a complete door. |
Is the only option to obtain late door hardware? There's no retrofitting?
Now that I know the problem, I've started researching it. Looks like I'm gonna have to swap the door skins. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
^^ My 1973 bus has the locking mechanism in the slider door handle, but the 1977 bus I have has a separate lock. Don't know if you care, but I am thinking you have a later door.
I would not think that these parts are interchangeable. Not even sure if your later door put on your 1973 bus will close and latch properly. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 4:35 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Do we have a thread for obvious discoveries? Like, when you feel like a complete idiot finding out something that in hindsight is so damned obvious?
I just discovered the importance of having the seal/O-ring on the dipstick of my Type 4 engine.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Target
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2017
Posts: 60
Location: Los Angeles
|
| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| Wasted youth wrote: |
^^ My 1973 bus has the locking mechanism in the slider door handle, but the 1977 bus I have has a separate lock. Don't know if you care, but I am thinking you have a later door.
I would not think that these parts are interchangeable. Not even sure if your later door put on your 1973 bus will close and latch properly. |
Yeah... new door is late, damaged door is original '73. Guess I'm tracking down late hardware. Or another donor door. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
furgo
Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2016
Posts: 944
Location: Southern Germany
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 11:20 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Probably one of the first times I don't consider myself to be asking a stupid question, but there was some timing discussion on a recent build thread, I wondered about this, but didn't want to derail the thread into an offtopic.
So I thought I'd ask here 
Could the TDC marker unit be used in any useful way, for the many of us who don't own a VAG 1367 tester?
That is, has someone figured out which type of signal it outputs and how to measure it? E.g. is it a voltage signal that could be read with a scope?
_________________
'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)
Decode your M-Plate |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wihr
Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2010
Posts: 344
Location: PORTLAND, OR
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 12:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
I use a strobe light.
WW
_________________
WIHR
1970 Campmobile "Van Ordinaire"
2009 Lincoln Town Car "Behemoth"
1969 Lambretta 150 DL "Nina"
1962 Matchless G 12 CS 650cc |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stwesty
Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2015
Posts: 128
Location: Vancouver, Canada
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
I did a compression check and leakage test of my engine and two cylinders #2 and #4 are showing 80-90% loss due to rings and/or exhaust valves.
Rather than take my car back to the mechanic for expensive diagnosis I'm going to bite the bullet and do my first engine pull.
It just struck me that I've never done a valve adjustment because the first mechanic I ever took it too told me I have hydraulic valves. After doing more research (http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html) I'm not sure how he was able to determine so conclusively that my valves are hydraulic since he just did an oil change and general inspection.
Should I try adjusting the valves first before I go all-in and pull the engine? Can I determine for sure that I have hydraulic valves without pulling it?
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 1:02 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
| stwesty wrote: |
I did a compression check and leakage test of my engine and two cylinders #2 and #4 are showing 80-90% loss due to rings and/or exhaust valves.
Rather than take my car back to the mechanic for expensive diagnosis I'm going to bite the bullet and do my first engine pull.
It just struck me that I've never done a valve adjustment because the first mechanic I ever took it too told me I have hydraulic valves. After doing more research (http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html) I'm not sure how he was able to determine so conclusively that my valves are hydraulic since he just did an oil change and general inspection.
Should I try adjusting the valves first before I go all-in and pull the engine? Can I determine for sure that I have hydraulic valves without pulling it? |
Lifters Hydraulic or Solid ? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stwesty
Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2015
Posts: 128
Location: Vancouver, Canada
|
| Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
|
|
Thanks TCash, I'll give that a try tonight.
Hmm maybe he inferred it from the fact that I have a CV (Vanagon) engine code on the main part of the engine by the distributor while the rear fan shroud casing has an AW code on it (73-75). I hope the mix'n'match doesn't give me any problems.
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
