Rear motor mount

[dgbeatty]

Has anyone modified the rear motor mount assembly to use modern hydraulic mounts?
What I envision is eliminating the four stock rubber mounts and instead using perhaps Subaru or diesel style mounts at the end of the mustache bar.
With a 2.5 Subaru STI engine the stock mounts just don't seem up to the task. I am getting perhaps 20,000 miles before they are so worn as to not control the engine movement. I have a Burley integrated pan, 6-7 quarts and Smallcar header so use of the stock Subaru motor mount position is out of the question for me.
Suggestions or Pictures

[IdahoDoug]

The challenge is going to be space. There is only room for slabs of rubber under there, not a hydraulic assembly.

However, you might look for an opportunity to either add additional traditional mounts of rubber that share the load, or adding a damping strut. My Porsche 924 had a mini shock absorber on the right side motor mount. You might consider finding such an assembly and mounting it off to one side where it has better leverage to control engine movement. Or even a true serious small shock absorber such as from a motorcycle, quad or something smaller with limited suspension movement. Fabricate a brace and find an unused sturdy bolt hole on the block.

These might be much easier than finding a true hydraulic mount that fits in that limited space. Also, be advised some hydraulic mounts don't damp movement much, they can simply tolerate the movement for a much longer life without degrading. Versus a shock which is designed to damp movement.
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[dgbeatty]

Thanks for the input Doug.
What I would like to do is eliminate the stock mounts making them solid and move the rubber mounts to the ends of the mustache bar where it is now bolted to the frame rails. There appears to be sufficient room there. The setup I am considering vaguely resembles the old type 3 arrangement.
I know some people have added small "shocks" to aid in movement control and I have considered that route. Having the mounts at the end of a much longer lever would achieve greater movement control without adding harshness IMHO.

[djkeev]

Off hand, mounts are generally a "compression" design and not a hanging design. You will need to modify the bar adding a safety design so that if the rubber mount breaks, your engine doesn't drop onto the road.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[crazyvwvanman]

That is how the first bay window bus engines were mounted. The crossbar bolted solidly to the engine and then there were rubber mounts at the ends of the bar where they attached to the body. 68-71

Mark

[61Scout]

[rmcd]

These are for inline four installs but maybe you can use Tony's brackets and hydro mounts. I've got a set of his bars and they are top notch cnc laser cut quality stuff. Tony is super sharp. Maybe he can give you some ideas?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1382462
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=