brake/clutch pipe replacement

[westina]

Hi, there is a pinhole on the pipe somewhere near the back section of the van. There is a lot of pressure so trying to fix it with some sort of sleeve etc. didn't work. I probably need the whole piece starting from the front and goes to the back. I did fix few similar things before when you buy the pipe from car parts store and bend it accordingly. Is that what i should do? Should i try to remove it and see if it can be flared from where the leak is and maybe use a coupler or just get the shorter section from the back? Thanks

[MarkWard]

Yes and Yes.

In a pinch you can use one of these, but they are not DOT approved.

Your local hardware should have them.

Otherwise, yes you will need to replace the entire line or properly cut it back and install a new section using the proper flare tool and fittings.
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[Wildthings]

Best to run a whole new piece. You can buy a precut length from your FLAPS and then shorten it if need be. There are ways to duplicate a bubble flair, so a search, some shop near you may have the tool to do a bubble flair as well.

[Vanagon Nut]

When i did the long front to back brake line, I got lucky and managed to find NOS (green coloured) of a single long piece of brake line. But, i had to couple it to a FLAPS length to make it to the factory T at rear. Your FLAPS should have proper couplers. So, check your vw dealership or foreign parts supplier. You never know what you might find. Beware that the clutch lne is a larger diameter; you most likely wont find pre made clutch line. Getting the original long line out can be done edit: without "destroying it" can be done. Just copy the bends.

Neil.
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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[DanHoug]

Cunifer is your friend... because it bends so easy and does not rust.

https://cunifer.com/

1/4" for the clutch, 3/16" for brake. you'll need a tool to make the DIN/ISO bubble flare and some practice on the bench.

https://cunifer.com/site-map/33-technical-help-category/21-brake-line-flare

you'll need a 12mm x 1.0mm DIN x 1/4" line fitting for the lclutch slave cylinder or buy a premade hose section from several suppliers but you'll still have to join it to the clutch line somewhere. dollars to donuts, the union of the flex line to the steel line will twist off instead of loosen so you just follow back until you get to solid, non-rusted line then add a union. it'll likely be an SAE union but that's fine because you just use SAE flares with SAE nuts with an SAE union. or go all the way to the clutch master, a bit more work.

brake lines are 3/16" with 10mm x 1.0mm DIN/ISO bubble flares. take those back to solid lines too or make an entire new run.

be forwarned.... ANY line work is sorta the tip of the iceberg stuff. it always ends up an ordeal but it is fairly low tech stuff to do yet insanely expensive to hire out as it is labor intensive. buy the tools, learn to do it, and save a ton of money.

-dan

[westina]

Thanks, i am going with the proper way and heading to the local parts store tomorrow. They claimed to have 25 feet brake lines which you cut, bend, flare... They may even rent the flare tool. We shall see.

[Wildthings]

[Vanagon Nut]

Looking at my old notes, it seems I bent the line then installed it. I likely had to make minor adjustments to the line once in place. Link to my image album and notes for line replacement on my '81. This Vanagon was converted from air cooled to water cooled so some subtle visual differences may apply. (e.g. my long coolant pipes are incorrectly installed left for right. Ain't hindsight great? And, heater hoses run a little differently)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x9RgcDqmkSNHDPwR2

The line I removed.

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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[GreggK]

Volkscafe sells that section but you have to bend it accordingly. I still have one that I was holding onto incase I do a automatic to manual swap. Let me know if you need it.

[GreggK]

I just checked. the one I have is in the 86-91 manual section. Clutch/Clutch hose. For 2wd.

[DanHoug]

i'd posted this elsewhere but just fyi, i used Cunifer line all the way to the slave cylinder putting a compliance loop for flex near the slave. it's just fine, and eliminates that flex hose assembly which you still have to mate to the rusty hardline somewhere. i wasn't lucky enough to have the OEM union come apart.

-dan

[westina]

It looks like i will need to replace all the brake lines and hoses in the future as they are not servicable due to rust.
I tried to remove the hard line from the clutch hose but the connection was frozen solid. So i needed to order a new clutch hose too. First priority is getting the clutch working and over the winter i ll do the rest.

[MarkWard]

For a clutch tube repair you can use the compression fitting I posted at the top to get the van usable. Then you can do everything when you are ready.
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[Abscate]

Much less pressures not a clutch line than a brake and, of course, much fewer safety consequences on failure.

I would use a union permanently with no regrets. Put it into the usual PM for inspection and you will catch a seep before you lose clutch action
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[westina]

In case it helps someone, here is what i have done. Advance auto sells 5 feet sections of metric lines. With a 12 mm metric union , u put two pieces together. Bend it similar to original and front end attaches to the unit somewhere near the left side of the radiator. You will have little bit extra but there is more than needed room to make few small loop in the back where the line attaches to the clutch hose(soft line). Done. Cost: 25-30 dollars total.

[Dogsled]

Eastwood used to sell a relatively inexpensive flare tool, now all I can find is this:http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pro-brake-tubing-flaring-tool-with-45-and-37-degree-die-set.html,
I bought the tool about 5 yrs ago, as I recall was about $100. Seems like a lot but it does multiple tubings and flare types quite well.
May be able to rent such a tool locally?
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Don't make a fuss, just get on the bus...

[Dogsled]

And FWIW, I am now in the same boat with clutch & brake lines working on a '82 camper (AC) for a friend. Redid all the gas tank lines & grommets, new axle, new e brake assy, fixed the sliding door. He gets in, starts the motor - and the clutch goes to the floor.
While under the van, the corrosion was obvious, kinda expected a problem...
I just wonder if it might be overall easier to replace ALL the clutch system with new parts? It does appear the lines will need to be fabricated.
Does anyone have a detail on the metric sizes for the tubing fittings?
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Don't make a fuss, just get on the bus...

[Abscate]

Read upthread for the fitting sizes.

Since you don't know what you have on your Bus exactly ( many rebuilt hydraulic cylinders upsize the thread fitting to repair rust) the safest thing is to remove the slave and master cylinders , take them to your FLAPS , and fit flare fittings by testing.
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