34 PICT Carb

[JCS]

I bought a buggy with a 34 pict carb on it. I have had some hesitation at run up problems. I have also rebuilt the carburetor and still can not get the carb to adjust properly. When I adjust the smaller idle mixture screw there is no difference in the rpm level at all....no matter how far I screw it in or out.

I am thinking a previous owner over tightened the screw and damaged the seat of the needle valve.

Has anyone had this happen and is a new carb the only action?

[kreemoweet]

Your symptoms are typical of a carb that doesn't have it's throttle plate completely closed per the Bentley carb adjustment procedure, or
some other source of air leakage. The mixture screw could well be damaged, and/or have a damaged o-ring. Simple to take it out and look ...
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[vwjetboat]

throttle shaft bushings could be wore and leaking..

[wcfvw69]

Which 34-3 carb is this? An aftermarket (which brand) and or a genuine Solex?

Sounds like it's matched to an 009 mechanical only distributor as well?
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[VW_Jimbo]

Get a can of carb cleaner and start shooting the intake manifold at the heads, one at a time. Did it start running quicker? Did it bog down? Do each side, then spray the manifold boots. Any change? Hit the base of the carb, anything? And finally the throttle shaft bushings?

Repair any vacuum leaks you have or leaky parts. Then, if it still is the carb, get that repaired.
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[JCS]

Thanks guys. I have not had time to work on it it I will try your suggestions.

[Broncoblair]

[JCS]

I am not sure of the brand at the moment but it was a 009 centrifugal advance distributer. I had the same problem with another VW I built a few years ago. It was a 1776 with dual carbs on it and it would hesitate at take off. I tried everything but the builder of the engine said I just needed to run up the engine more at take off as if I were racing it. I switched it to a single 34 and a vacuum advance distributer on the advice of a Samba member. It tuned perfectly and ran great. It was not my intention to have to race the car and the 1776 with 34 carb had plenty of power. I then built another bug last year and did the same. It runs great and has plenty of power. Again, I am not racing these cars.

The latest is a dune buggy I bought from a fellow who restored it but did not know much about VW's. It had a hesitation........009 distributer and 34 carb. I changed the distributer to a vacuum advance and still had a problem with carb tuning. I had just rebuilt this carb. After a few trial and error tests, I put the old needle valve back in the carb. Seems the new one had a bad "O" ring on it and it would not allow the small screw to vary the rpm s. Runs fine now.

If you look at several threads regarding hesitation, the 009 is at the heart of most of them. Many think the 009 is everything gold but that has not been my experience. I hope you get it resolved.

[Meiang]

Quote
"I am not sure of the brand at the moment but it was a 009 centrifugal advance distributer."

Only Bosch made what is called a 009 distributor (Bosch Part No 0 231 178 009).

A lot of posts use the term 009 distributor, but people should be more specific and often use the term to describe those cheap knock-off "009 Type" distributors which by all accounts area pile of "XYZ".

I'm sure the poor old 009 is getting much maligned these days because of those copies and their inherent issues.

If its not a genuine Bosch distributor its not a 009 in the traditional sense - people should just call them "a cheap chinese centrifugal advance distributor"

[bluebus86]

You check the needle valve by removing the needle. examine it, it shojld have an orign near the threaded section. make surenthe oring is in good condition. like wise the large asjustment screw shojld have an oring too. these oring do disinigrate. they are often included in rebuild kits.

the neelde valve should be screwed in all the way, then backed out about 2.5 to 3 turns for an intial set point, then warm up the motor and fine tune as be the Bentley instructions.

once and a while the carbs do need dissassembly and rebuild. check for throotle shwft bore wear, and warping of covers and base flange,,lap as needed. also besure to measure the accelerator pump injection volume, and measure fuel level,in float bowl, these are critical. also jear up some water, just under boiling and fully submerge the float, if itmbubbles, it must be replaced, it leaks, use hot water, not cold

good luck
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