Clutch pedal to the metal and my upgrade idea

[Bluggy]

Hi Guys,

While trying to sort out the gear shifting issues, I got the dreaded clutch pedal broken hook issue. I tried pulling the cable from the transaxle but it seems connected so more than likely its the hook and not a cut cable.

I have pulled off the bolts and cir-clips quiet easily from the peadal assembly but there seems to be another tab just right of the brake pedal which is preventing the pedal assembly from coming out.

My Buggy is a right hand drive and there seems to be some subtle differences here and there. It also has another 10mm bolt holding the assembly to the floor pan and I am thinking the other tab is either pained stuck or tack welded.

I will look a bit closer tomorrow to see what it wont come apart.
The issue I was having since I got the Buggy, I can only get 1st and 2nd gear while pressing down the gear stick as you would do for reverse.

When I looked at the shift stick cup, it is going more to the right than the left when moved by hand. 3rd and 4th is in the center and 1st and 2nd almost under the tunnel at right, so I am thinking this is the reason I have to push the gear stick down to get 1st and 2nd because its way to the right where only reverse should be. I tried all the tricks in the book with the shift plate, but I think the clutch selector cup has to be centered.

I pulled out the pinch bolt on the coupler, thinking that it will allow me to rotate the shift rod, but there is a threaded part for the shift bolt to be attached to..so its fixed. I am not sure if this is how it is stock or the PO drilled and tapped it.

Sorry for the digression, for the mod I would like to do regarding the hook on the clutch pedal shaft, I have seen a few people used a grade 10 or 12 bolt/stud instead and said it was like a bearing. While this is better, there is still direct metal to metal contact and wear. The clevis also has a square hole as well so really not taking advantage of the round bolt or stud.

I am thinking of getting an actual bearing with a stud, weld a housing onto the clutch pedal shaft and friction fit the bearing. The housing can be heated or the bearing deep frozen to allow tight friction fitment.

This might be very practical for guys running competition clutch kits which has stronger clamping forces. This might be more than what is required for the cable but better to have more than less.

[Bluggy]

Was wondering..how many people rear ended or run over others, while at a stop light or in traffic with popped clutch cables or broken clutch hooks..

[wythac]

Nice idea. I'm assuming that the stud will be smaller than the widest part of the roughly rectangular hole on the end of a stock clutch cable.

I have a hydraulic clutch set up with a clutch master in the tunnel ahead of the pedal set. What I did could be modified for use with a cable system, but might be more trouble than it is worth, as you would need to use a different end on the stock clutch cable.

I modified my clutch hook to capture a heim joint between two sides of a bracket and welded a nut on the modified hook. A bolt goes thru the extra bracket arm, then the center of the heim joint and threads into the hook side. Not the best pic...heim joint is hidden by the closest side of the bracket that is now part of the clutch hook, part of which you can see below the threaded part of the heim joint.

Since on most buggies you have to shorten your clutch cable ANYWAY, maybe you do it on the front and have an attachment point of your choice, swaged onto the end OR, try welding whatever attachment point you want onto the stock end, maybe even gusseting it in the process.

Never tried to weld anything on one of those clutch cable ends, might not work if it cant be cleaned to the base metal well enough for a clean and strong weld.

One other thing: those clutch hooks are press fit with just a few tack welds. maybe that's just the aftermarket pedal sets, but I did some welding on mine before installing.

Food for thought.

[Bluggy]

Wythac you did a great job on the hydraulic clutch conversion, great idea too, I like the Heim joint implementation.

The studs on the bearing will be smaller, they range from 1/4" to 1/2" stud diameter.

I have looked up some pillow bearings as well, they have bore dia from 1/4" to 1/2" up as well but they will have some added weight which should be of no real concern.

These might be better since you can change them easily, machine a grade 12 blot head to go from behind the bearing, spacers will be needed behind the bearing to clear the bolt head in the center, then tighten the grub screws.

The original clutch cable has to be shortened, on my buggy it has a very bad clamping arrangement on the transaxle end. The clamp will actually cut the cable since it has square corners on which the clamp tightens..I will upload pics of it tomorrow.

I will use a proper cable clamping technique using cable clamps with strain relief like whats shown below.

I dont think I will have the need to beef up the cable mounting eye since that cut away into the clutch pedal hook, not sure of the material used but will look at it tomorrow out of curiosity.

I would love to rebuild the assembly, but its a PITA to get parts here. I might do the basics for now to get the buggy mobile in my yard its still not on the road as yet. I am in the process of doing some maintenance on it until we are ready to pull the tub off for restoration to the pan etc.

Cheers, thanks for the replies, info and for the pic of your great clutch mod.