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vwsparts.com Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2009 Posts: 9 Location: Kansas
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Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:42 am Post subject: vw diesel engines through 1984 the basic differences,please |
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I have a couple of VW diesel engines one in a 1983/84 Rabbit one that was given to me with the car when I bought it. I never worked on the diesels and haven't worked in a VW shop in 12 years anyway I think the car has a leaking headgasket. If I remember correctly the guys that worked on the VW diesels in the shop used to start them run em just a second and check the expansion tank for pressure to determine a leaking headgasket. Also as I remember it there were 3 different heads 1 for 1500 and 2 different 1600 heads and 2 or 3 versions of headbolts. What I want to attempt is to take the head from the engine in the shop have it surfaced, while it is being surfaced order headbolts and a 1600 3 notch gasket,headbolts and a timing belt probably will gamble on std rings and rod brgs also.I want to tear the car apart and put it back together in the same day.How do I identify the different heads and headbolts? Thanks |
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volksworld Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2011 Posts: 2525 Location: formerly NY currently NC
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Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 2:19 pm Post subject: Re: vw diesel engines through 1984 the basic differences,please |
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yes if you put a cooling system tester like a stant kit on it and pump a pound or 2 into it and start it up, if the gauge climbs immediately the gasket is really blown...but expansion of the coolant as it heats up can also cause a rise in pressure and inconclusive results for less severe leaks... a much more accurate diagnosis is done with a tester that has a squeeze bulb on top and uses a special blue fluid....when you squeeze the bulb air from the expansion tank is bubbled through the fluid...exhaust gas in the tank will cause the blue fluid to turn a greenish yellow....it can detect much smaller leaks or leaks that only occur after the engine has hit a certain temperature...diesel heads have a steel precombustion chamber pressed into the aluminum head and cant be cut with a conventional milling machine...so standard procedure was to just clean them up and re-use them....and if they were really warped buy a new one...there were some rebuilders out there that claimed they "straightened" the heads with a press or something rather than resurfacing them but i never tried to use one of those...whatever you do , do not use any roloc scotchbrite wheels to clean the head or block, they round off the edges of coolant holes and leave the surface wavy rather than flat....just use razor blades and patience no matter how many people tell you they use rolocs with no problems at all....once you screw up the surface of the block you'll never get a gasket to seal again ....think the 1600s around 81 went to the larger headbolts (stretch bolts...think 12mm triple square head) and the head had a much larger oil drainback hole in front to differentiate it easily from the earlier versions but its probably been 15 years since i touched one so i might be wrong |
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