MOFOCO 1914 Dyno #'s, EGT's w/050 Rassers & HYD Lifters

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So, everyone has been asking about the HP potential of some of my heads, along with cooling ability. I also have gotten a lot of questions about the limits of my hydraulic lifters. So, I built a 1914cc with a CW crank, lite FW, I-beam 5.4" rods, Engle W120H cam, hydraulic lifters, AA 94's, 050 Rassers, 9.0 to 1 CR, solid rockers with 1.1 arms, MST Serp belt kit, Dual Weber 44IDF's and a 1 5/8" header and sideflow muffler. I wanted to build a realistic street engine that didn't cost $10,000+ and use as few "race" parts as possible. For example, I only used a 009 Dist with points, Bosch blue coil and standard wires. The total cost to buy this engine from me with clutch is $6099, all brand new.

118.5HP
6167RPM

113.1FT/LBS
4700RPM

EGT's were 1300's at 6000rpm but held steady between 1150 and 1250 degrees between 3000rpm and 4700rpm where typically most people will be driving.
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Cylinder Head Reference Sheet

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Cylinder Head Reference Sheet

[fivelugshortaxle]

Those are pretty good numbers for a mild 1915
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2332 with lots of goodies....
Rotating assembly balanced by Brothers VW
4340 84mm crank
AA 94mm p&c' s
Total seal 2nd ring, rest are Grants
5.5 h beams
Magnum straight cuts
Steve Long XR310 on a 106
CB 1.4 rockers
CB Magnaspark 2 distributor
NGK D7ea plugs
A1 lowdown 1 3/4 with single muffler
Dellorto 48's with 40 venturies
Kennedy Stage 2 with Daiken disc

[Motor60]

Are those tall manifolds? Would there be a difference between tall and short manifolds? I’d like to see the #s if you had time

[jpaull]

Do you have your own Dyno now?

That's great your putting things to the test. I noticed in your Facebook video on this Dyno run you were doing lots of short revs instead of a long sweep. It takes awhile to get the hang of opening the water flow just the right amount to not load the engine to quick. In my first attemps, I loaded the engine prematurely to fast and got a high number at low rpms but it wasn't pulling higher rpms it just loaded hard and stopped pulling higher, so it wasn't a real hp number, just a braking load shock number.

Hope that your able to make more and more pulls, its a tool every builder should have.
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[modok]

Good test. Fairly good considering.

The big torque dip at 3500 is not great for a street engine tho. I think it's the exhaust side of the engine is causing that.

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[Alstrup]

Just about bulls eye for a medium set up 1914 with off the shelf parts. I have seen a lot of 1914 engines with that cam (in the solid version though) and and similar type heads pull in the 118 - 125 hp window.
Erhm, the torque dip is much wider, almost 500 rpm.

The dip in the curve is most certainly a combination of the header being on the large side for the engine and an intake resonanse.


Swop to a 1½" and rejet, and the dip will reduce a lot. Maybe even pick up a pony or two.

T
PS. I just copied and enlarged the screen print. The dip looks a bit odd. - Maybe it does not like the tall manifolds. I would definitely try a smaller header and shorter manifolds and see where that got me.

T

[74 Thing]

Alstrup posted some 1914 combos in the past on the Engine Builds/Combo sticky above (this one is on page 6, and he also has one on page 7 using a Webcam 163 making 136hp, and 192Nm of torque). He is using smaller valved heads (although ported) and a solid lifter camshaft. Did you do an A/F reading and jet and time that engine? I think there is more left in it.

This is a 1914 that was built over the last approx 2½ months for a VERY nice 1960 beetle.:

Line bored dual relief case, modified for full flow.
CB 69 mm counterweighted crankshaft
CB 200 mm flywheel. 13½ lbs.
KEP stage 1 Pressure plate
All dynamically balanced
Exedy super disc.
Unitech HD rods, ligthed 20 gr. (545 gr) Rebalanced.
Cam: A variant of the Web 110 cam. 256 degr. @ 0,050”. 0,495/0,435” lift. 108 LC.
CB lightweight lifters.
26 mm Shadek oil pump, blueprinted.
CB 1,3 l. thin line oil sump
CSP full flow cover.
CB Cromemoly 8 mm head studs.
AA 94 mm pistons and cylinders. Checked, but in balance.
CB 044 cylinderheads, 40 x 35 mm valves, Ported to my stage II. (170 cfm @ 25") Oteva sgl. valve springs, CB titanium retainers. 9,8 – 1 CR.
CB HD rocker shafts.
Porsche style adjusters.
ACN aluminium push rods.
German 009 distributor w. Ignitor module. Pertronix 3 ohm coil.
CSP 30 hp fanshroud w. doghouse & fresh air.
NOS dual 40 mm Dellorto´s on CB offset manifolds.
CSP 1½” street sport exhaust system

143.6HP and 189Nm of torque

[Erik G]

Why the hydraulic lifters?
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[vince1]

A friend imported to France a 69 deluxe bay window equipped with a 1775 mofoco hyd lifters engine, never heard a flat 4 as quiet as this engine, you could barely listen any mechanical sound, just the single quiet pack caracteristic exhaust tone.

For family vans where you want to talk with your passengers I think it's a good selling point.
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Click here for my full pix detailed 2165 engine build with beehive valvetrain.

Sorry for my poor English, I'm a French guy ...

[UK Luke 72]

What limitations do those HYD lifters have?
Could you drop a 120 in there?
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[74 Thing]

Do your hyd lifters require machining the lifter bores larger (in the past I know of other companies using larger Ford hyd lifters), and do you have anything available that makes more power/is more aggressive than your hyd120 camshaft that is used in this build?

[drumbum68]

Roy, curious to know why numbers are crossing over 5500 rpm's?

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[vwkirb]

[modok]

the torque scale is not same as HP scale, look at the numbers on the sides of the graph, that's why they don't cross at 5200

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[mark tucker]

try some1.25& 1.34 rockers and see...and the small er header..... 40's might hep a tad too...find the best combo for a bus and a bug. there are somany diferent size intakes out there , tall short, offset, houmoungus and small streamlined runners. . and a dist with a good curve can do wonders. for those tq drops....get your dyno up and runnen and build your self a test mule....to be raffled off when it's done all the testing you need to do on that size motor. a good dynod motor thats proven & broken in should be a eazy raffel to do, then go on to the next size and do over.