Wolfsburg West 9 pin relay

[joe cool]

I recently installed the WW relay into my 1966 kombi. Turn signals, brake lights and hazards work, but the indicator on the speedometer stays on / does not flash. Anyone else had this issue?
KBl from relay connected to indicator lamp, positive from ignition switch connected to indicator lamp housing terminal. Any ideas?

[srfndoc]

Installed the same relay last year with no issues in my 67 Westy:

_________________
RPM=(MPH*336* (R&P*4th*1.26))/Tire Diameter in inches

[crofty]

terminal 15 from the starter switch?
_________________
Your Vanagon sucks, Stop waving at me.

[joe cool]

i believe all is connected correctly. Everything but turn signal indicator light operates correctly. Maybe a defective unit? It is a tricky system the KBl terminal, apparently it alternates + and - according to a relay triggered by load on 49a?
I was hoping for a simple answer like jumper to ___ and it will work. No such luck I guess. I will check connections again tomorrow but I am pretty certain it is wired correctly. KBl seems stuck in - mode. Thanks

[Ratt]

I just installed a 9-pin from a local shop here in seattle area and had the same issue. The dash light is solid... however if I turn on the hazards, it will flash with them.

[esde]

Had the same problem a few years ago, the guys at WW helped me trouble shoot it. I don't remember exactly what it was, but his questions led right to the issue and we had it fixed fast
_________________
modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[Hoehleneule]

You can check for some kinds of funkiness with the arrow light like this:

---
1. Pull the wire off of KBl on the 9-prong box (blue/white stripe). Let it just hang in the air, not touching anything.

2. Turn the ignition key on.

3. The arrow light in the speedometer should be off.

If it's on, you've got a short to ground in that blue/white wire between the 9-prong box and the speedometer, or some other problem. Review the wiring to the indicator lamps at the speedometer.

If the arrow light is off, go to step 4.

4. Ground the loose end of the KBl wire (not the KBl terminal on the 9-prong box!) to bare metal on the Bus body. It's OK to use another piece of wire or a clip lead or equal as an "extension cord". The arrow light in the speedometer should come on when you ground the KBl wire.

If the arrow light comes on when you ground the KBl wire, the arrow light and KBl wire are working OK. Go on to step 5.

If the arrow light doesn't come on when you ground the KBl wire, you are having a strange problem. Turn the key off and review the wiring to the indicator lamps at the speedometer.

5. Turn the key off, take away your ground jumper if you used one, and plug the KBl wire back on to KBl on the 9-prong box.
---

If the WW 9-prong is a faithful reproduction of the Volkswagen one, it won't operate the arrow light unless there is enough load on the 9-prong box. If you have replaced your front or rear lamps (or both) with LEDs, that might not be enough load for the 9-prong box, at least in turn signal mode.

VW recommended 1073 (front) and 1064 (rear) lamps as replacements for 12 V buses in the US. A 1073 is 23 watts and the bright filament of a 1034 is also 23 watts, for 46 watts or 3.6 amps at the design voltage of 12.8 V.

In these latter days, the lamps may have been replaced with 1156 or 2356 (front), or 1157 or 2357 (rear). These draw at least as much as the 1073/1064 do, and sometimes more, so they "should" work.

If you have a loose/dirty connection, like in the turn signal switch or at one of the front or rear lights, the lamps may not be drawing enough current to operate the arrow light. (If the arrow light works OK in hazard mode, but not in turn signal mode, that's a clue in this direction.) Or, if the 9-prong box isn't getting full battery voltage, the lamps might not be able to draw enough current to satisfy the 9-prong box.

You might also (carefully) measure the voltage between 15 and ground, and between 30 and ground, at the 9-prong box, while the turn signals and flashers are operating. It will be a little less voltage than what you get right at the battery, and the reading will bounce around a little as the lights come on and go off, but you should see mostly battery voltage there. If it's way low - like you see 12.6 V directly at the battery, and 10 V at the 9-prong box - you've got a poor connection in the voltage feed to the system - maybe at the fuse box (30) or ignition switch (15).

The stock tail lights on a Bus are grounded by a little tab riveted to the reflector that pushes on the lamp holder, and IIRC there's also a bump on the rim of the reflector that contacts the body. Reproduction (and maybe later Bus?) tail lights have a tab connector for ground at the lamp holder. I have one repro light, with tab connector, on my '64 and I ran a brown wire from where the battery negative bolts to the body to the tail light. On the other side, with the stock light, I used a hose clamp to trap the end of a piece of wire around the bulb holder, and ran the other end to body ground.

As a quick check, get a piece of wire a couple of feet long. Have a helper hold the wire from engine ground (but not the fuel line, fuel pump, carb, etc) to the outside of the lamp holder on one tail light. Or, use zip-ties to temporarily attach the wire. Go up front and try the turn signals on that side (without starting the engine); if the arrow light now works correctly, improve the grounding of your tail lights.

Hoehleneule

[joe cool]

Thank you so much, I will try all that tonight after work.

[crofty]