River Bank Survivor (59 Single Cab)

[peecee69]

[davegotdubs]

Cool. I wasn't sure if you had existing holes or not, If you didn't, I figured you wouldn't want to add any. Glad you got it fixed. BTW, isn't that your bay that I see at Home Depot?

[Pinetops]

Glad to hear!!!

[SamboSamba22]

[SamboSamba22]

[Skim]

[62DoKaGuy]

[Pinetops]

+1
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[SamboSamba22]

Thanks so much you guys for all the good praise and love, it sure has been a journey.
So today was a positive, negative deal. I purchased a new battery, a big group 24 unit, to replace the three year old battery, that is still good and will find itself back in the aux location in the Westy.
The new battery, along with the clutch adjustment allowed me to drive the truck around the neighborhood!
Unfortunately, I discovered that my passenger rear wheel cylinder is leaking, which is a Varga unit. I can only suspect the rubber components in the unit.

I also discovered that with the new battery, my issue isn’t a battery, but rather a grounding issue. The positive and negative battery cables are both getting hot! No bueno, but I’m having a hell of a time identifying the problem.
It won’t let me turn over the engine, and it’s a bad new battery. It’s like a “crank, craannnnk, ................craaannnnnnkkkkkk....nothing”
Any ideas fellas?
I’m considering removing all wiring from the fuse box and starting over.

NOTE: the generator light is staying on while running, while I’m not getting any oil pressure light indication. Again, no headlights, turn signals, an old crappy turn signal switch, and no head beam switch on the floor.
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Fifty-Eight Rag]

[SamboSamba22]

Anyone know the size of the two screws holding the wiper motor in place? M7's, M8's?
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[EverettB]

[RWK]

Check all your ground straps? add a starter relay?
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[SamboSamba22]

Thanks Everett.

The transaxle ground-strap is new. The battery ground cable is new. There is no addition of a starter relay.
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Took to the truck the tools, verifying that indeed the generator isn’t charging the battery. Removed the belt and attempts to polarize the generator proved it isn’t working.
Checked the oil pressure light, it has power on the speedometer, but isn’t grounding through the switch. Bad switch?

With the generator disconnected, and the voltage regulator grounded well, I’m still having issues with the starting problems.
Turning the key, it’s a wonkkkkk, wonk, wonk....nothing. Turn the key off, and try again, i can get it to fire up. Turn it off, and no luck.

In the process of starting the truck the battery cables get hot, though once it is running the cool down and feel normal.

I have quadruple times 10!! Checked connections, i can only think the lack of headlights, dimmer switch, and a good turn signal switch, are causing grounding issues.
Feedback gents?

Found a link of this video stating a starter issue. This is exactly what my starting process sounds like, thoughts??

https://youtu.be/d4bBikcecss
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[cdennisg]

I am betting that you have a worn ignition switch/contacts/starter solenoid/antique wiring that are causing a lot of resistance in the starting circuit. A hot start relay would be a temporary (or permanent) fix. A thorough dissection of the starting circuit with new, clean, well connected connections would be the long-term solution.
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nothing

[SamboSamba22]

[cdennisg]

[SamboSamba22]

Thank you for all the feedback Dennis.
The ignition switch is new from WW.

Last night I dropped the starter, and pulled the solenoid off, cleaned the internals of the solenoid without tearing it apart, and brushed up all the electrical connections. Regreased the plunger, and tossed it back on. Though I can get the truck to fire up a lot better now, it’s clear the starter is needing replaced. With a good solenoid running near $100, for new brushes and fresh paint, the extra $50 would be worth it to just purchase a whole new unit.

Generator needs to be replaced, voltage regulator is good. As far as doing the conversion from Gen to Alt, is it that much beneficial to do the swap?

Discovered what I initially thought was brake fluid to actually be gear oil, leaking alarmingly from the passenger side reduction box. It’s always something, right?
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[cdennisg]

How is the starter bushing in the trans? If it is worn out it could cause those symptoms, too.
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nothing