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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 7:49 pm Post subject: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Hi folks.Just placed an order for 2 rear lover corners, 2 front door step panels and left side rocker panel from CIP1. Anyone welded them before to their vehicles? I have limited experience with flux core wire and this new unit can use gas, it has a regulator and gauge, i need to figure out how to set it up and where to get gas.
My understanding with this panels are, we need to tack weld paying attention not to warp, taking your time and fill a bit more between the previous tacks.
Is it possible to achieve end result that doesn't require body fillers etc or it is normal precedure to use bondo or similar stuff. Thanks |
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orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
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Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 6:52 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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You will do way better with gas. You can get it at any welding supply outlet. You will have to rent or buy a tank outright, but it is well worth the expense. When it's empty, they give you a full tank. It doesn't cost that much for a refill.
Repairing body panels without using filler requires a high level of skill beyond just doing good welds and is an unrealistic expectation for a beginner. There is nothing at all wrong with filler when it is used correctly and is not too thick. 1/16 inch of filler is considered decent work, 1/8th is considered ok. Body filler's bad reputation comes from people who use it improperly. |
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theKbStockpiler Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Rust Belt
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Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:55 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Filling the gap method is better than a flanged overlap joint. _________________ My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 8:12 am Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Thanks. My panels should arrive in a week or so. I see no problem doing welding in cold weather right? I may have to wait on other works such as bondo, fiberglass resin, paint till outside temps goes up again in spring. |
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57BLITZ Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012 Posts: 2385 Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 1:00 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
I see no problem doing welding in cold weather right? |
Cold weather is no problem . . . however, even the slightest breeze can be a problem . . . it can/will blow the gas away from yer weld and make ya say bad words!
As theKbStockpiler said . . . avoid lapping panels! A close fitting (aim for no gap) butt-joint is what ya want for yer patch panels.
You will hear "use a low setting to avoid heat", but I found that giving it a click higher setting allowed me to do the tack FASTER . . . resulted in better, flatter bead without getting it too hot.
DO NOT cool your welds!!!!!! Warping occurs from the weld shrinking . . . quenching exacerbates the problem! _________________ Jesucristo es mi Seņor y Salvador! |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 7:04 am Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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57BLITZ wrote: |
westina wrote: |
I see no problem doing welding in cold weather right? |
Cold weather is no problem . . . however, even the slightest breeze can be a problem . . . it can/will blow the gas away from yer weld and make ya say bad words!
As theKbStockpiler said . . . avoid lapping panels! A close fitting (aim for no gap) butt-joint is what ya want for yer patch panels.
You will hear "use a low setting to avoid heat", but I found that giving it a click higher setting allowed me to do the tack FASTER . . . resulted in better, flatter bead without getting it too hot.
DO NOT cool your welds!!!!!! Warping occurs from the weld shrinking . . . quenching exacerbates the problem! |
Ok thanks. A friend suggested leaving a small gap(very small) between the joints so i can fill em with weld but i think best way is to aim for tight fith without overlapping right? |
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57BLITZ Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012 Posts: 2385 Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 2:12 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
A friend suggested leaving a small gap(very small) between the joints so i can fill em with weld |
That might good if you were welding thick plate, but . . .
If you leave a gap, and the tack shrinks and pulls the gap closed . . . then you will get warped panels.
That's why I turn up the heat a bit and do the tack as quick as possible . . . almost using the mig arc to fuse the panels while adding the minimum amount of wire to the weld . . . must have the fit-up almost perfect . . . will not happen where there is a gap between the panels.
It is kinda tricky, but endeavor to keep any gap to no wider than the diameter of the wire you are using . . . that's .023" dia wire you are using, correct? _________________ Jesucristo es mi Seņor y Salvador! |
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theKbStockpiler Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Rust Belt
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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You can adjust the heat by how much you overlap the last tack weld. The denser the base of the material is ,the more heat it can absorb with out raising the temperature. Usually the issue with not overlapping is that the fit up has to be perfect which is next to impossible with hand tools. So the gap takes care of that. If it shrinks too much you can "hammer weld it" which is just hammering/dollying the seam when it is hot. You can also do it while it is cool. I have never had a big issue with shrinkage when using the gap method so I think it is over emphasized.
As far as ambient temp goes, it's really only an issue if the metal is under 25 degrees fahrenheit. Then you really have to pre-heat it. _________________ My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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CiderGuy Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2013 Posts: 1351 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:24 am Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
57BLITZ wrote: |
westina wrote: |
I see no problem doing welding in cold weather right? |
Cold weather is no problem . . . however, even the slightest breeze can be a problem . . . it can/will blow the gas away from yer weld and make ya say bad words!
As theKbStockpiler said . . . avoid lapping panels! A close fitting (aim for no gap) butt-joint is what ya want for yer patch panels.
You will hear "use a low setting to avoid heat", but I found that giving it a click higher setting allowed me to do the tack FASTER . . . resulted in better, flatter bead without getting it too hot.
DO NOT cool your welds!!!!!! Warping occurs from the weld shrinking . . . quenching exacerbates the problem! |
Ok thanks. A friend suggested leaving a small gap(very small) between the joints so i can fill em with weld but i think best way is to aim for tight fith without overlapping right? |
HF sells clamps to hold the panel in place while you butt weld.
https://www.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html _________________ ----------------------
Cars Currently Owned:
1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)
Timing is everything |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Hi. I ll check my wire size, i am not sure what size it is. Panels arrived from CIP, i liked them. fits nice etc. but lower corner piece arrived damaged. Also there is a ridge in the middle of the rocker panel. Its not too bad i am not sure if it would show after getting it installed.
Anyway i have started the body repair part of the project. Still couldn't find the sweet spot with the mig. Also the only gauge i was able to find local was 22.
At my skill level, i probably will apply a layer of shortstrand fiberglass bondo or some other variety and smooth it out and paint.
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Fell free to make suggestion. I ll update as i progress. [/img] |
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CiderGuy Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2013 Posts: 1351 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:03 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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You might want to look into .023 Easy Grind wire. Plenty on the web about it, good stuff. Measure 3 times cut once. _________________ ----------------------
Cars Currently Owned:
1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)
Timing is everything |
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theKbStockpiler Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Rust Belt
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:36 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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I appreciate how you are cutting pieces out instead of using filler.
Part of the issue with fit up is if you have a patch piece that is a little off ,how much better is it going to be (or worse) the next try. You really should not settle for anything thinner than 20 gauge.
As far as the works goes it looks like you have the idea down but you have to have more experience to fine tune it. At your experience level I would limit the built up bead by not arcing as long. Once the pool stops spreading out ,it builds up. It's easier to start your next weld pool off your last.Overlap the last spot weld by about 1/3 and the capillary action will do the rest. You just have to have more then one series of tack welds going so the heat does not build up as much in one place. I do three weld pools in row arced off each other and then move to a different spot or let it cool down. I let it cool down from being red and than arc a again but not more then three in a row of the same stitch weld. A bunch of spot welds in a row add up to a stitch weld. _________________ My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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57BLITZ Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012 Posts: 2385 Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:41 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
Fell free to make suggestion. |
You are probably already aware . . . grinding the bead can create lots of heat . . . be careful!
Try to grind just the weld and NOT the patch!
If you grind the bead and it opens a hole in the bead . . . weld it closed.
Be sure to cut out ALL the rust . . . check the backside of the panels . . .
CiderGuy wrote: |
You might want to look into .023 Easy Grind wire. Plenty on the web about it, good stuff. Measure 3 times cut once. |
YEP! _________________ Jesucristo es mi Seņor y Salvador! |
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beetlenut Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 2983 Location: RI
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Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 6:22 am Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
Fell free to make suggestion. I ll update as i progress. |
I'm not sure, but are you using fluxcore on the above weld? If not, you need to go hotter on your settings. In the photo below, which is the backside of the welded piece, you can see the size of the multiple tiny welds. With a hotter setting the welds spread out and penetrate more. That's provided you have clean, uniform thickness metal on both sides of the weld.
_________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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Wetstuff wrote: |
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again. |
- Words to live by right there!
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 5:39 am Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Hi, thanks. Checked my wire its 0.23. I cant pick a hotter seting cause its burning holes. I was able to find 22 gauge, which might be too thin. The other available gauge around is 18, which i have a feeling that it would be hard to cut and shape with limited tools.
Its a lot of work, especially trying to achieve stitches without pinholes. |
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beetlenut Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 2983 Location: RI
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 4:07 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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If you're trying to weld to metal like what is shown above, that metal on the left side of the opening is not sufficient to weld to.The metal you're welding to has to be like the patch you're trying to weld in. It has to be the same uniform thickness and clean like the patch you are trying to weld it to. You're blowing holes because the rusty part you're trying to weld to is thinner in spots and can't hold the heat. I got caught up with this, trying not to cut out too much OG metal. You have to cut to good solid uniform metal like you did on the right side of that cut. _________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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Wetstuff wrote: |
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again. |
- Words to live by right there!
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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57BLITZ Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012 Posts: 2385 Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 6:01 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
Hi, thanks. Checked my wire its 0.23 |
That wire is WAY too large . . . used for welding battleships! You want wire that is more like .023"!
More . . .
Cut off the "dingleball" from the end of the wire every time.
Be sure to have a good ground.
And like beetlenut and I both told ya . . . cut out ALL of the rust! Rusted metal is thin! _________________ Jesucristo es mi Seņor y Salvador! |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 7:19 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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beetlenut wrote: |
If you're trying to weld to metal like what is shown above, that metal on the left side of the opening is not sufficient to weld to.The metal you're welding to has to be like the patch you're trying to weld in. It has to be the same uniform thickness and clean like the patch you are trying to weld it to. You're blowing holes because the rusty part you're trying to weld to is thinner in spots and can't hold the heat. I got caught up with this, trying not to cut out too much OG metal. You have to cut to good solid uniform metal like you did on the right side of that cut. |
I agree. Looking at the pic its easy to see that its pitted badly. I am a bit hesitated to cut curvy areas thinking it might be hard to cut and shape plugs. The corner of the windshield gave me a bit PTSD.
I got a refill of gas today and my beads are much better. |
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westina Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2017 Posts: 368 Location: Beacon/NY
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 7:28 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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Another lesson learned. I should have cut out the rocker panel first and use the good metal off of it for the repair areas. Upper part was really nice and solid steel.
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I have a question.. Is welding from outside always the proper technique? I just played with the idea that i can weld it from inside the van and maybe overall appearance would be more neat? [/img] |
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beetlenut Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 2983 Location: RI
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Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 8:43 pm Post subject: Re: mig welding CIP1 body panels to vanagon. |
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westina wrote: |
I have a question.. Is welding from outside always the proper technique? I just played with the idea that i can weld it from inside the van and maybe overall appearance would be more neat? |
I would weld from the inside if I could. Less grinding and surface prep on the outside to get it ready for paint. If the inside is not going to be seen, no grinding is really needed, just paint or something to protect the metal. I always wipe down my welds after grinding and prep with Ospho or some phosphoric acid product before I prime. _________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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Wetstuff wrote: |
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again. |
- Words to live by right there!
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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