SACO front disc brake installation experience

[Braukuche]

After a month of looking into a disc brake kit for my 1959 Westfalia, I decided to go with SACO despite some of the negative responses on the site, which by and large seemed to date back at least two years or more.
I chose them because their kit looked less like something cobbled together from spare parts off other cars, allowed me to use my stock wheels and was several hundred dollars less then the other kit I was considering which was the CSP kit.
In addition I also ordered a 1967 dual master cylinder from German Auto which makes the SACO kit.
Everything's arrived quick and packaged well. No parts were missing. What was lacking was installation directions, but this has been covered for years so like everyone else I had to figure it out myself and had to make a couple calls to SACO, ask questions on the site and get expert advice from the world famous Boger City Bus Repair.
To help others Who might chose this kit I figured I would do a short write up on installation and preliminary reaction to the product.

Step 1: remove your old drums and backing plates along with bearings and big bearing washer. You can use your old rubber brake lines but if you do you will have to remove them from the retaining bracket if you are going to run your calipers in the back of the rotor.

Step 2: inner bearing spacer orientation is important. Make sure after you pull it off to remove the backing plate you install it the same way, with the beveled side FACING in, not out. If you screw this up the caliper will not fit on the rotor and if you do not use the spacer it will not fit correctly. Someone else who posted pictures on the Samba of an attempt to install this kit and failed did so because they messed up on this part.

Step 3: install caliper mounting bracket, the big square aluminum plate, using four beveled Allen head bolts. I called SACO and they told me to torque them down to 20lbs and use Locktite. I installed mine so the caliper is behind the spindle.

Step 4: install inner bearing into hub. I had fitment issues with the inner bearing. Not uncommon, so I had to use a file and go over the mounting area for the bearing on the spindle to get it to slide on freely. best to dry fit the bearing first to make sure it will slide on and off freely before installing and greasing everything up. Also, the inner bearings grease seal seats pretty far into the hub.

Step 5: slide hub onto spindle.

Step 6: install outer bearing and retaining washer from kit. Use your original axle nuts. Adjust your bearings and use stock lockplate.

Step 7: install dust cover with three screws.

Step 8: install caliper. Here is where it got tricky. Installing the caliper is pretty straight forward. Screw your rubber line into it first and tighten, then mount it on the bracket from behind using the two bolts torqued down to 15lbs with locktite. Pad installation is easy, they slide in and are held in with a single bolt. I had no issues with fit of the caliper or disc like a previous poster but again, I think it was because of the fore mentioned bearing spacer issue.
The problem was after I added fluid and bled the system the calipers leaked where the brass fittings for the bleeding screws screw in to the aluminum housing.
The fittings had what I thought was teflon tape around them and I did not touch them. The bleeders were all loose, so I tightened the four bottom ones naturally along with the tops when I installed, but did not mess with the brass fittings. So I can only assume this was a manufacturing problem. SACO Was more than willing to exchange them when I called adding they couldn't figure out what the problem was and said they have not had this problem before.
I tried tightening the pipe fittings, removing and per SACOs advice, reapplying teflon tape, but it did no good. I was advised instead by someone else to use Permetex high temp pipe fitting compound. So, I pulled all the fittings, cleaned them with brake cleaner as well as the calipers where they screwed in, applied the permetex stuff, installed , let it sit overnight and then added brake fluid, bled and no leaks so far.

The other issue I had was the rotor was hitting the caliper in a few spots on both wheels. There were two or three slight high spots which I had to use my grinder to remove.

Once I removed all the air from the system and adjusted the master cylinder brake rod correctly there was a short break in period. There was a clattering noise coming from the pads, but it went away.
I cannot say much about performance to date, they for sure work as well as my old drums on surface streets, but I need to try them out in different circumstances to see if there is a real big improve in performance. I will update later if problems arise and when I get a better sense of the brakes performance.

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Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[campingbox]

That bearing spacer must be removed in order to remove the backing plate.

[Braukuche]

[pyrOman]

No mistakes, just the "square" piece of aluminum could have been formed better IMO.

What was the co$t of this kit?
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[crofty]

[Braukuche]

Including the master cylinder and shipping it was like $1200.
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Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[ToolBox]

[pyrOman]

I do agree with ^^^that^^^, and it is something you don't see unless you are under it. But it's just ugly looking to my taste. If they are using a CNC to machined the part it shouldn't take that much more to throw a bit of profile into it. Again, just IMO.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[Bruce Amacker]

I agree, that is flat out fugly. I'd expect something like that on an economy kit, not an upper end kit. And that increases the unsprung weight which will hurt your handing (not that busses handle.....).
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'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Build threads:
'66- http://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&sid=54d8dedfb3822f99c7f2ea430cb4e856
'65- http://leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4263

[dubman67]

I purchased a DC project with Saco discs. Everything is installed but the flexible brake lines. What lines work with this kit? Stock?
Thanks
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67 Bug
62 Double Cab
[url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-54829.png]Click to view image[/URL]
"At 17 got my first Volkswagen...and mastered the life long art of dragin...." Ice Cube

[Icehouse]

I have them on my bus for 10 years. They are okay. They have always felt slightly warped even when they were new. Way better then drums though.

Does anyone know where to buy the brake pads? Mine finally made it to metal on metal.

[dubman67]

[Braukuche]