Onto my 4th Engine in 6 months

[Tom Powell]

[SGKent]

you can print a degree wheel online and size it to fit the pulley size. Line zero up and make a mark at 29-30 degrees. Google "degree wheel" then go to images
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Stuartzickefoose]

i personally dont care if its possible, but i know if this is his FIRST BUS, hes probably not gonna know that. just gut checking all you senior professional keyboard, and actual, mechanics out there....if his engine looks stock, his engine WONT have a 30* mark to line up. so dont send him chasing a unicorn


*end of rant, i havent had my chocolate yet today
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Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[williamM]

a decent timing light with a dial can find the spot if set to 28* and then adjust the TDC mark to zero.- Its a great tool for separating vac from mechanical advance also-
_________________
some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.

Don't step in any!

[airschooled]

[SGKent]

[AircooledHome]

Hello..
Last week I was ready to buy some Weber IDF 40s for my 1776. I was told by multiple professionals locally that 44 IDFs are "too much carb" for a 1776. SO I decided, since nearly no dellortos or webers are for sale within my budget, I would just go with single barrel dual kadrons.

I found a set of Dellorto 40's for sale, and was nearly ready to buy them.. When I read this page again:
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetor-options-selection-101/
And realized that "... note that the DRLA carb sizing is 1 step larger than the equivalent Weber. "

Does that mean that the 40 Dellorto duals are 45s, and too big for my 1776?

Thanks
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'71 Deluxe Bus - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=659421&highlight=

[AircooledHome]

[Wildthings]

[telford dorr]

Ages ago, shops used to have distributor machines. Wonderful devices. They allow you to test and adjust your distributor so that the advance curve is correct. If you can find a shop that still has one, you can get your distributor set up correctly.

The second problem is, what does the timing mark on the pulley actually mean? Is it at 7.5 deg advanced? is it at 5 deg retarded? Is it somewhere in between? Pulleys vary from year to year. Odds are, the pulley might not even be for the year bus its attached to. The only way to know is to test it - which is hard on an assembled engine. But since this mark is the baseline for your full advance measurement, you kinda gotta know what it represents.

Buying a quality degreed pulley solves this problem...
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'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)

[raygreenwood]

[AircooledHome]

[aeromech]

[Spike0180]

Second, to keep looking for a smaller carb setup. What kind of cam do you have in this 1776? Exhaust? Stock crank? What are the specs, they matter.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[AircooledHome]

[Spike0180]

[AircooledHome]

[scubaseas]

Interesting thread. I came by my Bus after three owners and at least five engines. Solved the issues of over heating that were killing the engines (missing tin, a "power pulley" and bad oil cooler & location) but can tell you three things every T1 Bus should have if you are concerned about longevity:

Oil Pressure Gauge (0-80psi)
Oil Temperature Gauge (located in oil flow)
Cylinder Head Temperature Gauge (Dakota Digital on #3 plug works well)

If you have these three you can drive it up to the point of destruction. Without them you are doomed to keep eating engines unless you can drive 55 mph or less and take it easy on hills. And hopefully you have the right tin. the right pulley, timed right, right deck height, right compression, right fuel, right timing curve, right mixture, etc etc. If you ignore the three gauges you can easily blow up even the best of rebuilds. Especially if you drive 65+mph in 85*F+ temps.

You would be well served by checking the air/fuel ratio to make sure you are not in the "death zone" and running way too hot. Tuning the carb means getting the right jets to have it be around 12.8 to 13.6 A/F ratio at wide open throttle. If it's 14.0:1 (death zone) it will raise your head temps by quite a bit. Even as small as 5 size off (like 150 versus 155 main) will make big difference in it running hot at speed. Having it tuned right and timed right are essential to have it last.

I doubt that weight is an issue on your Bus. I would bet my Westphalia all loaded up is heavier. Certainly doesn't help it though. Put in a cylinder head temp gauge and you will be surprised how much even small changes in timing and mixture effect head temperatures.
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Al

08/1970 T2a Westphalia owned since 1980

ASE Master certification. 50 years pushing a wrench
Retired

[scubaseas]

[AircooledHome]