How similar is a 69.5 Convertible top frame to earlier ones?

[Rbfara]

I have 1960 convertible that currently has the top frame from a 1969.5+ or later but a canvas top in the non glass window style. The PO modified the A pillar so the side latches would work. The older top seems to fit well but worn out and the plastic rear window is yellowed and broken and it’s time to replace it. If I’m putting a new top, I’d like to put the correct header on it with the center crank and hardware and all BUT...

My question is if I find the correct style/year header and crank and all, can I just swap out the 69 1/2 header for an earlier correct style one?

Any advice appreciated

Thanks
R
_________________
1960 Karmann Ghia Convertible 1385 40hp

[swavananda]

[Rbfara]

Swavananda,
Thanks for the links. I don’t know why I couldn’t find them
myself. A ton of info there I’m sure I’ll find useful. BTW your Ghia is a sweet ride! Makes me yearn for more than my humble 36 horses.
R
_________________
1960 Karmann Ghia Convertible 1385 40hp

[Rome]

Hi, R. Now that your Ghia is freshly repainted, it'd be a shame to cut open your windshield header to "try" to find the original '60-style latches, then touch up the paint again. IMO it'd be far simpler to replace your outer skin and leave the front header and mechanism even if it is not correct. I'd think it's very important that the top seals out all rain when its closed, which IIRC is the case with the current top.

As to a new top, consider Chuck's Convertible Parts. Looks like the top outer skin for a '60 would still work on yours even though you have the later header. Chuck would be able to help- he's in the biz for over 30 years; I've met him a few times when he and his mom ran the business in the late '80's and early '90's and would come up to the big NorthEastern VW meets. In this listing he mentions the top has the correct shape rear window. Many top suppliers take liberties with the rear window shape so that you'd want to request a photo of the rear window before you purchase.
https://chucksconvertibleparts.com/index.php/categ...-skin.html

Good friend in CT bought a black canvas top from Chuck's for her stock, original '63 and had a shop install it 2 years ago. Looks great:

For more engine power, well; you know I have some thoughts from previous discussions...! You could improve the 36hp by installing larger, 80mm pistons/cylinders (need to bore out the heads and case) for 1287cc, then put on an aftermarket WolfsburgWest OKRASA dual-carb set, mild cam and 4-tip exhaust. Probably get 10-15 more hp with all that. In this highway shot you're already doing well with passing the slow-pokes!

[Rbfara]

Rome,
You may be right about just leaving the mechanism as it is. I realized that it’s not just the header I’d have to replace, but main side arms for the top as well because I’d no longer want the later side latches. So basically i’d need a whole new correct top frame and header and header hardware et al. A very costly endever. Great to hear a good recommmendation about Chucks. That will probably be the direction I go.
Re horsepower I’ve been thinking two things:1) keep this stock 36 as is and get a 40 hp case to drop in a big bore kit in (no boring out needed).We’ve built a couple of them recently at the Vallone’s and it’s a rare enjoyable experience to be able to accelerate swiftly going uphill in 3rd

2)... (and for the price of a sweet Okrasa motor you suggest) I’ve been toying with the idea of getting.... a Corvair. Or would that just be cheating?
R
_________________
1960 Karmann Ghia Convertible 1385 40hp

[Rome]

R, keeping the existing top frame and mechanism, which works well now, would be the most sensible choice. The only change factor would be the new top outer skin. You'd avoid all the retro-fabrication and frustrations.

As to engine power, have you researched in the Vintage Speed Forum here on theSamba? As to keeping the 36hp, I remember reading one poster in Europe mentioning he made some very mild modifications on his 36hp Beetle and achieved a seat-of-the-pants improvement. He had a photo of his speedo at 80mph! IIRC he advanced the timing 1 or 2 degrees, possibly installing a slightly larger main jet, and a slightly less restrictive exhaust. If you don't want to splurge for a 4-tip muffler, you could first try the taper-tips that go into the stock muffler. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Chrome-Tapered-Tail-Pipes-T1-Pair-p/tapered-tail-pipes.htm

For a 40hp-based engine, were you aware that cylinder heads for a 1300cc engine fit right onto the 40hp head stud pattern when the engine has the 40hp big-bore kit? Benefits of the 1300 head are slightly larger valve sizes compared to the 40hp 1200 head, and the angled intake manifold flange to enable installing readily available single-throat dual carb kits for a "single-port" engine. If you don't want dual carbs, then you should stick with 40hp heads but find the late '65 style that has the rectangular rocker arm mounting bosses. Maybe Chris has a clean set of 1300's. There's a machine shop right in our county that can balance cranks, flywheels, rods, etc so that you could have a really nicely running engine this way. We could meet up at Chris' shop one Saturday early in 2018 to consider some engine possibilities; maybe even mock up a spare 40hp case of his with the big bores and 1300 heads so that you can envision these differences better.

[Rbfara]

Rome,
Those are exciting ideas. You’ve got my pulse quickening. Next week i’ll poke around for a 40hp case and see if there are any 1300 heads to be had. I’d welcome the opportunity to learn more about the crank, carburation and all the other bits needed for a balanced and ballsy motor. I’ll let you know. In the meantime anything you (or anyone else) would recommend as reading or researching toward that specific goal is most welcome.
R
_________________
1960 Karmann Ghia Convertible 1385 40hp