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scottf1887
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014
Posts: 139
Location: Tejas Baby!!
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 Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 10:47 am Post subject: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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So I bought a nice 63 to be my daily driver. Before I start driving it I want to make sure it's all good to go. It has a rebuilt 40 horse. I checked compression and all looks well. I have an oil leak at the breather. I wiped it all down before driving this morning and checked it after a 15 Mile drive. I have a significant leak as you can see. It has been converted to 12v so it does have a cheaper aftermarket alternator stand. It seems the leak is between the breather and stand. Should I just pull it apart and put a new seal in between, maybe with light silicone? Asking for assistance because starting next week I'm planning on driving this car around 50 miles a day. Thanks and Merry Christmas.[img]
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Brian
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Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 11:03 am Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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Take it off and use a single port manifold to head metal crush gasket to seal it up.
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scottf1887
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014
Posts: 139
Location: Tejas Baby!!
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 12:28 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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| Will do, thanks! Great idea! |
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mukluk
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Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7023
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 12:47 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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Take a really good look at the existing filler for holes. No road draft tube = possible water accumulation and rust holes from the inside out.
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Danwvw
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Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 1:04 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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I was reading about these that don't have a down drip tube. They all rusted out. One solution was to remove them and braze them. You will need a tool like one of these. Or these.
Vw Oil Filler removal tool:
Internal Pipe Wrench:
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FeelthySanchez
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Joined: February 03, 2011
Posts: 1349
Location: Now is that a real poncho, or a Sears poncho?
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:00 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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She's rusted-through, w/ pin holes.
Might as well shytt-kann it & upgrade to the later down-vented type, just need to add a clearance hole to the breast plate.
| mukluk wrote: |
| Take a really good look at the existing filler for holes. No road draft tube = possible water accumulation and rust holes from the inside out. |
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| OldIronSpine wrote: |
I'm not sure how compression works.
Turbos don't produce torque, they produce HP. Instead of torque.
The real problem with NA engines is you don't hear the nice whine of the turbo as it spools up.
Before I commit, I'm going to do more research because I don't really know what piston rings are. |
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John Connolly
Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2015
Posts: 48
Location: Sandy, UT
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:39 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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if it's rusted through with pin holes, it's from all that water in the oil, pooling in the breather.
Look at that mayonnaise. Does that engine have an operational thermostat? |
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scottf1887
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2014
Posts: 139
Location: Tejas Baby!!
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:55 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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| Great ideas guys and I really appreciate it. Good point on the oil...that's going to be drained out tomorrow. It does have a thermostat, whether or not it's functional is the question. How does the thermostat relate to moisture in the oil? Thanks! |
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:56 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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This thread talks about it Well the previous problem with the leaking oil: Stock 1973 engine.
Yes thermostat temp. If an engine runs hot enough it will not collect moisture.
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modok
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Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26785
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:49 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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| scottf1887 wrote: |
| Asking for assistance because starting next week I'm planning on driving this car around 50 miles a day. |
If you did not fix the leaky breather it would be just fine to drive any number of miles. It's not a critical problem, more of a cosmetic problem. |
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Rome
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Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 9641
Location: Pearl River, NY
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| Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 7:12 pm Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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If you decide to remove your filler and install one with the down-pipe, realize that there are two general types of pipes- straight-down for 40hp, and the curved for 1300's and later. Both types mount the same way to the alternator stand. Easiest to get the 40hp one. Here you can see the differences-
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1977643
| Quote: |
| It does have a thermostat, whether or not it's functional is the question |
Even if your engine has the thermostat, it is not connected to anything. You don't have the directional air flaps at the bottom of the fan shroud. The flap assemblies are fastened to the shroud using engine tin screws that fit into those vertically slotted holes near the bottom of the shroud. You can clearly see the slot in this shot, just above the silver intake manifold's upper pipe. There is 1 pair of such slots on each side of the shroud as well as on the front side of the shroud (8 screws total). BTW the larger, round hole above it is for the plastic spark plug cable clip. Need 3 of them; they just push into the shroud. They hold the plug wires up off the engine tin and also help contain engine cooling air inside the shroud. |
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clonebug
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Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4027
Location: NW Washington
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| Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 7:15 am Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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If you pull the alternator and alt stand you can clean up the bottom and inside with brake clean. After it is good and dry sand the paint off and find the holes......then take a torch and braze the holes shut.
Add a little paint to match and reassemble.
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mikedjames
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Joined: July 02, 2012
Posts: 2736
Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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| Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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Over in Europe , and in the USA they dropped the down pipe for pollution reasons. So my 1979 T1 engine as sold in the UK did not have a down draft tube.
Yes you have a leak.. from the coffee colour this is water and oil probably emulsion gunge from crank case moisture and oil spray.
Fix the leak , fit flaps and a thermostat and drive it HARD and it may get hot enough to boil out the water. Like when I drive my bus at 65 to 70 MPH I can get the oil to 220-240 degrees then it dries out.
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SBD
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Joined: October 24, 2012
Posts: 3269
Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:30 am Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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| Rome wrote: |
Even if your engine has the thermostat, it is not connected to anything. You don't have the directional air flaps at the bottom of the fan shroud. The flap assemblies are fastened to the shroud using engine tin screws that fit into those vertically slotted holes near the bottom of the shroud. You can clearly see the slot in this shot, just above the silver intake manifold's upper pipe. There is 1 pair of such slots on each side of the shroud as well as on the front side of the shroud (8 screws total). |
He might just have the wrong shroud. My '63 40 horse had a throttle ring instead of flaps.
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Buggeee
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Joined: December 22, 2016
Posts: 4408
Location: Stuck in Ohio
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| Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:05 am Post subject: Re: Help please. Oil leak at breather |
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When you switch to the road draft tube to allow water to drain, don't forget to get one of those little rubber vents for the bottom of the tube. It is necessary to maintain the negative pressure inside your crankcase, which is created by the vaccum hose between the air cleaner and the filler neck. The negative pressure keeps the oil inside the case from pushing out through seals onto your floor. I was fascinated by this engineering so I will litter your thread with my write up of it because I have not found a willing audience for the information at cocktail parties or family gatherings....
| Buggeee wrote: |
...
So the stock air-filter has two vacuum ports that serve different functions. One port has a tube that shares the vacuum situation with your crank case, through the pipe in the top of your oil filler. Here is link to an excellent Wiki article on the history of why that is important to the internal combustion engine:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system
Basically, the slight explosion blow-by that sneaks past your piston rings into the crank case with every firing creates a positive pressure situation inside your case (stuff pushing outward). That pushes oil out of your case anywhere it can go. Your seals are not really designed for this pressure situation, and you will leak. Also, the combustion blow-by has harmful contaminants that will degrade your oil if the fumes stay in there and let them migrate into your oil.
So, the vacuum situation from your air-filter, shared by the tube to the top of your oil filler neck, creates a negative pressure situation in your crank case (stuff pushing inward). This helps keep the oil sealed inside the case, and helps remove the fumes that would contaminate your oil, burning them up in the combustion process. All good stuff.
When people have nothing to do with the little pipe on top of the oil filler, they can top it with a little miniature filter thing. That, however, does not create a negative pressure situation. At best, that helps reduce the amount of positive pressure present in the case. Plus I've heard they are kinda messy but I wouldn't really know.
Before I go any further, the "road-draft" tube on these later motors, running down from your oil filler neck to under the car, is not really a road draft tube. That was an old-time way of creating vacuum by air rushing past the bottom of that tube at speed. Now the tube merely functions to allow water vapor to condense in that top part of your oil filler thing and drain harmlessly away as droplets. For this to work, and to keep the system closed in order to maintain vacuum, you need one of these rubber caps on the bottom of your tube.
You can get them from the parts suppliers on the internet but you have to cut the slit that belongs in the pinched tip of it because they forgot that was necessary. After you cut the slit in that you can pinch it with your fingers and it will talk to you like those little rubber coin purses used to. Hello there little rubber thingy.... "Well hello there to you too Buggeee Boo"
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