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Spring plate bushing replacement
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Altema
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the other side tonight, and it was going spoothly, until I could not get the torsion bar out of the spring plate! I put pressure on it and tapped it with a mallet, which worked well on the other side, but not this time. Finally resorted to a big hammer and PB blaster to no avail. The final solution was to cut the inner bushing with a razor, right through the knob at the 7:00 position. This was opposite the wear pattern on the stock bushing, and the slot for the knob held the slit together so tight that you can't even see it. I'll have to see how it works out...

Anybody have suggestions for when the outer torsion bar end is stuck?
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Ian Godfrey
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill a 1/4" hole in the penny sized steel plug on the end on the tube welded to the spring plate, then bunch the torsion bar out with a 1/4" punch. Or you can pop that plug out and use the BFH
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ovghiaguy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:45 am    Post subject: spring plate bushing removal Reply with quote

the end cap looks like a freeze plug. it is swaged along the rim to hold it in. I took a sharpened punch and knocked back the swage marks and reused the cap when done indexing the bar. it was covered with paint and hard to see the swage. before removing the bar from spring plate make reference marks on bar and plate so you know where you were at reassembly time.
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Altema
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions guys. It was caked over, so I thought it was not removable, and I didn't even think of drilling! Well now that I know ways around the problem, I can go back if any adjustments are needed. The driver's side was about an inch lower than than the right side (as usual), So I raised it up the minimum that I could. It looks even now, but sits about a quarter inch higher on the driver's side. I don't think I can make a fine enough adjustment to get it perfect, so I guess I'll have to live with it. There's not as much negative camber now, so I'm happy with that. Only thing that I'm not happy with is the stiffness! New bushings are so tight, I could probably take the shocks off. I've been driving it, and it seems like it will relax a little when it gets worn in. Handling and tracking made a dramatic improvement.

Paul
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roadkingdoc
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what are signs and symptoms of worn out bushings? thanks
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Altema
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

roadkingdoc wrote:
what are signs and symptoms of worn out bushings? thanks
Sorry, thought someone else would grab that question! In an IRS car, excessive negative camber is most noticable. Other things to look for are loose feeling rear suspension even with good shocks, or possibly scraping noise or metal on metal noise if the bushings are severly worn and allowing contact with the spring plate cover. It's not a terrible job, just time consuming. If they have never been replaced on a 40 year old car, then it's time! Mine were not only worn, but also getting hard and cracking.

Paul
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Altema
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, if anyone uses poly bushings and finds it too stiff, then considers removing the shocks to improve the ride... Here's my advice: Don't! I tried it just to see what it would be like. Rear suspension was real stiff, so I figured the bushings would act like friction shocks. I was right, and the car is fine over dips and wallows in the road. However, the small bumps are what's dangerous because the friction from the bushings cannot control small rapid movements, so cracks and broken pavement sends the wheels hopping. Hitting those kind of bumps while stopping or turning can make things go bad. I drove one mile on good roads with the shock off, then went straight home and re-installed them. Made me late for a meeting, but I did not feel it was safe without the rear shocks.

Just a headsup in case you're curious!
Paul
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Altema
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question: How close can you get the ride height from left to right? The car has a few hundred miles on it since the bushing change and bar adjustment, but rather than eyeball it, I got out the big ruler and found the driver's side (left) was 1/4 inch higher than the other side. It seem like this is less than the minimum adjustment, so should I stop being anal and just ignore it?
It probably levels out when I get in the driver's seat...

Paul
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Ian Godfrey
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, you are very close but plus 1 spline inner, minus 1 spline outer is around 1/4 of an inch so you could get it better if you wish. details here:
http://vw.zenseeker.net/Wheels-TorsionBars.htm
if it bugs you fix it, its only time not $
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after reading through this thread, I decided to go out and check my Ghia...and sure enough the driver's side is 3/4" to 1" lower than the passenger side. Now that I've actually measured it, the car looks a little tilted looking at it head on. Funny how I never noticed that before.

Anyway, a spring plate bushing replacement is in my future now (add it to the growing list!). My question is...how do I know that the problem is only the bushings? Once I'm in there, is there a way to know if the torsion bar needs replacing or not?
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Ian Godfrey
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torsion bars don't 'wear out' they just take a 'set'. The important thing is to put them back the same side they came out, mark them left and right. Some are stamped from the factory.
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Altema
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Era Vulgaris wrote:
Once I'm in there, is there a way to know if the torsion bar needs replacing or not?

If it's broken, replace it Wink
Adjust the drivers side according to the chart that Ian linked us to, and you should be fine. Just be careful lowering the spring plates off the stops!

Paul
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, good to know. Thanks guys!
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66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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Bikerchris
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New bushings are cheap and good piece of mind. When you are adjusting your bars be sure to mark there original position and angle. That way when they come off all of a sudden you wont be scratching you head wondering where they were originally.
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Bikerchris
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, here is the inclinometer app. This one is actually called "tiltmeter".

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Altema
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now THAT is cool!


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ovghiaguy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikerchris wrote:
By the way, here is the inclinometer app. This one is actually called "tiltmeter".

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way cool ! I used a cheap magnetic base protractor from harbor freight.
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auto_vagabond
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Spring plate bushing replacement Reply with quote

Thanks for the inclinometer app, bikerchris. You can even set alarms to let you know you hit your target angle.

I haven’t see it posted yet, but do not use the spring plate cover bolt torque listed as 80 ftlbs (Bentley Manual). I did and broke a bolt Brick wall Brick wall Brick wall ...even though my better judgement said it was too high.....they know better than me, right??? Shame on you

After going back through the book, the table at the end of Chapter 3 lists the torque as 25 ftlbs....damn a whole 55 ftlbs off. Update your books fellas!!
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swavananda
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 9:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Spring plate bushing replacement Reply with quote

auto_vagabond wrote:
Thanks for the inclinometer app, bikerchris. You can even set alarms to let you know you hit your target angle.

I haven’t see it posted yet, but do not use the spring plate cover bolt torque listed as 80 ftlbs (Bentley Manual). I did and broke a bolt Brick wall Brick wall Brick wall ...even though my better judgement said it was too high.....they know better than me, right??? Shame on you

After going back through the book, the table at the end of Chapter 3 lists the torque as 25 ftlbs....damn a whole 55 ftlbs off. Update your books fellas!!


You may have mis read the book. I recall the spring plate to trailing arm bolts being around 80 ft. #. Hopefully you torqued those to that and not 25. Wink . But nice work getting done in your thread .
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auto_vagabond
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:30 am    Post subject: Re: Spring plate bushing replacement Reply with quote

I thought the same thing, but when I went back and re-read it after breaking the bolt, sure as sh!t...it said 80 ftlbs.
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