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Setting end play FAQ
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred09 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Have you made 100% sure the thrusts bearing isn't moving axially in the case? If the bearing is moving you can not set the axial play to spec or you will lock the crank to the bearing. With a loose thrust bearing, unless you are willing to tear the engine down and have the block machined, you just have to live with excess endplay.


Wildthings: How would I check that again? Is that where I put on 4 shims (or until there should be no end play) torque the flywheel down, and then measure the endplay? If there is none then the bearing isn't moving, but if I have end play still that amount I measure is how much the bearing moves in the case?


Yes that is pretty much how to do it, you don't need to torque the flywheel bolts all that tight to do this, not much more than a firm twist of the wrist, 10 ft*lbs would do.

Also you could try this, with the flywheel removed try to rotate the thrust bearing with a sharp pick, it shouldn't move in any direction. You can also install enough shims to lock the crankshaft to the bearing, tighten the flywheel bolts lightly. Now use a dial gauge to see if there is any end play.
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Busstom
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:12 am    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred, I describe an easy, alternative method for isolating the thrust bearing and determining if it has any axial play in the crank saddle...it is on page 2 of this thread, reposted by Tcash.

In my method, the flywheel stays off, you indicate directly off of the thrust bearing, thus, any movement detected by the indicator is actual fore/aft play of the thrust bearing (axial play) within the crank saddles.

If you do detect any play, then you have to factor that number in to your crank end play setup. In other words, if you want 0.005 flywheel end play, and using my method you found 0.010 slop on the thrust bearing alone, then the sum of end play you need to shoot for when the flywheel is shimmed and torqued, such as in your picture, would be 0.015 (I used the above sample numbers because you said you are reading 0.0155...I'm not suggesting that this is your scenario).

So if you do have axial play (which is a form of end play) in your thrust bearing, and you plan to run the engine without tearing it down to fix it, then you need to know how much axial play the thrust bearing alone has, or you'll never know what to shoot for with the flywheel torqued, because you won't know how much of your reading is in the flywheel shims, and how much of your reading is in the thrust bearing play. Get it? A loose thrust bearing adds to your end play, because if it is loose, it has end play itself...and you can't compensate for that by tightening up your flywheel shimming because, as Wildthings said, you will lock (destroy) your motor like that.
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Kfred09
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Well yall called it: I went down and measured the axial play using the description of the post that was literally right before mine on this thread Embarassed (I have been reading the forums so much in the last week that it has all kind of blended together)

The readings I got were .0095" of axial play on the bearing. Which means the number I am aiming for if I am going for .004" end play would be .0135", right? And if that is the case then based off of my two shim measurement of .029" the third shim I would need would be .0155". Does this all sound correct?

A few other questions. I have never taken a case apart before so I am having problems visualizing how this works.

1) How much axial movement by that thrust bearing is too much? I couldn't find a wear limit listed in the Bentley.

2)Would excessive axial movement of the thrust bearing also lead to higher oil temperatures/ Low oil pressure??? I don't want to spam this thread with my oil pressure readings, but they are a good deal past the wear limit.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

The general rule is that you just keep running the engine until either the oil pressure drops dangerously low or you can't control the leakage.

I am strongly contemplating having an oxyboxer built up for my Thing engine as the WBXer has a much improved thrust bearing setup. I have wondered if it would be possible to adapt such a setup to a standard Type 1 engine. 76mm stoke, a factory oil filter arrangement, an aluminium case, and a better designed thrust bearing all make this seem like a very good idea.
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Kfred09
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The general rule is that you just keep running the engine until either the oil pressure drops dangerously low or you can't control the leakage.


Hmmm I will find an oil pressure thread to post my readings on to get some feedback on if they are dangerously low or not then Think

Wildthings wrote:
I am strongly contemplating having an oxyboxer built up for my Thing engine as the WBXer has a much improved thrust bearing setup. I have wondered if it would be possible to adapt such a setup to a standard Type 1 engine. 76mm stoke, a factory oil filter arrangement, an aluminium case, and a better designed thrust bearing all make this seem like a very good idea.


Most of that went way over my head Embarassed .Most of my mechanical knowledge all stems from working on this one bus over the last decade. BUT it sounds like a cool idea to me Very Happy
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 1:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred09 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
The general rule is that you just keep running the engine until either the oil pressure drops dangerously low or you can't control the leakage.


Hmmm I will find an oil pressure thread to post my readings on to get some feedback on if they are dangerously low or not then Think

Wildthings wrote:
I am strongly contemplating having an oxyboxer built up for my Thing engine as the WBXer has a much improved thrust bearing setup. I have wondered if it would be possible to adapt such a setup to a standard Type 1 engine. 76mm stoke, a factory oil filter arrangement, an aluminium case, and a better designed thrust bearing all make this seem like a very good idea.


Most of that went way over my head Embarassed .Most of my mechanical knowledge all stems from working on this one bus over the last decade. BUT it sounds like a cool idea to me Very Happy


The oxyboxer is just a watercooled Vanagon engine that has been converted to an air cooled. Not cheap but not necessarily any more expensive than trying to build a really tough Type 1 engine. 1980's technology verse 1930's tech.

If you have a Type 4 engine then so long as you can gets the parts for a rebuild then going to an oxyboxer would not be as easy or desirable.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 1:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred09 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
The general rule is that you just keep running the engine until either the oil pressure drops dangerously low or you can't control the leakage.


Hmmm I will find an oil pressure thread to post my readings on to get some feedback on if they are dangerously low or not then Think


10 PSI per 1000 rpms on a hot engine is fine, don't try to get much above that though or the oil will begin to run hot.

You might search for threads on using the "Diesel" style pilot bearing which has an integral rubber lip style seal. Fairly easy up grade that can pay off handsomely.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 2:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

I inserted some responses into your quote, below, in blue...

Kfred09 wrote:
Well yall called it: I went down and measured the axial play using the description of the post that was literally right before mine glad it worked! on this thread Embarassed (I have been reading the forums so much in the last week that it has all kind of blended together)

The readings I got were .0095" of axial play on the bearing. Which means the number I am aiming for if I am going for .004" end play would be .0135", right? Yes. And if that is the case then based off of my two shim measurement of .029" the third shim I would need would be .0155". Does this all sound correct? Yes. You can probably disregard the fourth place of your reading (the "ten thousandths" place), as it's insignificant, and you won't find shims down to that resolution.

A few other questions. I have never taken a case apart before so I am having problems visualizing how this works.

1) How much axial movement by that thrust bearing is too much? I couldn't find a wear limit listed in the Bentley. That is because, technically, any movement is too much...it should be very snug, by design, and any play will compound progressively and get worse and worse over time. Remember, every time you depress the clutch, all of that pressure shuffles the thrust bearing one more time...it snowballs.

2)Would excessive axial movement of the thrust bearing also lead to higher oil temperatures/ Low oil pressure??? I guess theoretically, it could, since the thrust bearing sliding fore-and-aft could also tend to wear the saddle that it's clamped in, where the flowing path of oil transitions from the case into the bearing, and so on. I don't want to spam this thread with my oil pressure readings, but they are a good deal past the wear limit.


You can run it as is, but its lifespan is in question, and enough fore-and-aft movement of the whole works will eventually translate to unwanted side loading of your connecting rods on the crank and piston pins themselves. If you're crafty (and it sounds like you are), you can keep an eye on it periodically from the fan side of the engine, with the engine in the Bus. Just reverse the whole concept, and indicate off of the pulley, and grab the fan by hand to push and pull the crank fore-and-aft. just keep in mind, your thrust slop is already 2x what your end play is...not good.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The oxyboxer is just a watercooled Vanagon engine that has been converted to an air cooled.
Ohh I had heard of a waterboxer before...I guess I should have been able to figure out what you meant. Not a bad idea Smile

Wildthings wrote:
10 PSI per 1000 rpms on a hot engine is fine, don't try to get much above that though or the oil will begin to run hot.
Well I definitely don't have that. I checked a week ago before I dropped the motor, but maybe adjusting end play, and making sure the timing is right (just got my timing light) might improve my numbers a bit so I will wait before I decide my oil pressure situation needs further attention.

Busstom wrote:
You can run it as is, but its lifespan is in question, and enough fore-and-aft movement of the whole works will eventually translate to unwanted side loading of your connecting rods on the crank and piston pins themselves.
hmmm my main concern is if this is effecting performance Think I am not opposed to a lot of hours of work if it means that I will get better performance and reliability. I am basically embarrassed that I have had this bus since I was a kid (for over a decade now) and I have never felt confident about taking my camper on road trips. And now that I live in California instead of Texas the poor girl CRAWLS up all these mountains Brick wall

But sounds like where I am at right now is: fix the endplay, throw the motor back in, do a full tune up, and if I am not getting the performance that I think it should have...uhh... troubleshoot further??
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
If you're crafty (and it sounds like you are), you can keep an eye on it periodically from the fan side of the engine, with the engine in the Bus. Just reverse the whole concept, and indicate off of the pulley, and grab the fan by hand to push and pull the crank fore-and-aft.
I think I could figure that out easily enough! Very Happy
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred09 wrote:

Wildthings wrote:
10 PSI per 1000 rpms on a hot engine is fine, don't try to get much above that though or the oil will begin to run hot.
Well I definitely don't have that. I checked a week ago before I dropped the motor, but maybe adjusting end play, and making sure the timing is right (just got my timing light) might improve my numbers a bit so I will wait before I decide my oil pressure situation needs further attention.


You can sometimes bring the oil pressure up by replacing the spring(s) on the relief valve(s). If you have the exhaust and fan shroud off you can also access the oil pump and check it out.

What weight oil are you running?
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Kfred09
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:

You can sometimes bring the oil pressure up by replacing the spring(s) on the relief valve(s). If you have the exhaust and fan shroud off you can also access the oil pump and check it out.

What weight oil are you running?


Whoops. I just threw the motor back in after adjusting the endplay. So I will have to check the oil pump later.

I run 20w-50 since it never gets too cold here in LA. Cool

Im gonna run some more tests this weekend and see if I can figure out whats going on.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Kfred09 wrote:

Im gonna run some more tests this weekend and see if I can figure out whats going on.


The relief valves can be shimmed with washers from a hardware store. Somewhere there are specs on the original lengths of the springs. Before ordering springs you need to know if you have a dual relief or single relief case.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:30 am    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
[snip]...you need to know if you have a dual relief or single relief case.

Shocked Wow! This comment piqued my curiosity... I have a late GD case, and it's SINGLE relief, so I assumed all T-4's were single. So went to my Wilson book, where on page 38 he says ALL type-4's were "dual-relief."
A bit off-topic, but...WHAT'S GOING ON THERE??? Apparently he missed my case.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:20 am    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
[snip]...you need to know if you have a dual relief or single relief case.

Shocked Wow! This comment piqued my curiosity... I have a late GD case, and it's SINGLE relief, so I assumed all T-4's were single. So went to my Wilson book, where on page 38 he says ALL type-4's were "dual-relief."
A bit off-topic, but...WHAT'S GOING ON THERE??? Apparently he missed my case.


Hmm

Bentley is the Bible and Wilson is merely th e catechism ....but even the the Bible omitted the Winchester repeating rifle, so man could fight the dinosaurs.

Is there a consolidated thread of improvements to manuals?
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Kfred09
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:14 am    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Bentley is the Bible and Wilson is merely th e catechism ....but even the the Bible omitted the Winchester repeating rifle, so man could fight the dinosaurs.


Applause Laughing
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Setting end play FAQ Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
[snip]...you need to know if you have a dual relief or single relief case.

Shocked Wow! This comment piqued my curiosity... I have a late GD case, and it's SINGLE relief, so I assumed all T-4's were single. So went to my Wilson book, where on page 38 he says ALL type-4's were "dual-relief."
A bit off-topic, but...WHAT'S GOING ON THERE??? Apparently he missed my case.


The early cases were dual relief and the dual relief cases showed up at or about the advent of the hydraulic lifters. Don't really know exactly what changed and when in the main relief near the pump over the years, but know there were changes in how and when oil bypassed the cooler. Amskeptic has pictorial drawings of the various systems shown on his site, they are posted here on TS as well.
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