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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| SGKent wrote: |
| silver solder new posts on. |
Is it really possable to silver solder aluminum? Got a video of that so us solderally inept people can try that? |
mine was made of chrome plated steel not aluminum.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51117
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| solderally inept |
LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools).
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quartermilecamel
Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2008
Posts: 3929
Location: ohio
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| Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| solderally inept |
LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools). |
Well, yeah it is quite funny  I only say that because Im dam good at soldering......regular wires, copper. Tried soldering some broken fins back on my heads because someone suggested to go get the mig aluminum wire lowes sells and just run that through your mig welder. Worked about as well as duct taping them back on. Soldering aluminum is a whole different ball game. even tried to use the mapp torch while practicing on some lowes aluminum. Ended up just making a mess out of it. Just might try the alumalloy stuff harbor freight sells but not sure if a regular mapp gass plumbing torch would work, as I dont have the oxy/ acetalyne setup.
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Waiting for santa to drop off funky green. I can wish can't I???? |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| quartermilecamel wrote: |
| solderally inept |
LOL, nice!
Most of mine are aluminum too, I did replace a stud on one by drilling it and installing a long countersunk 3/32" aircraft rivet (glued in with end sticking out the back), after some sanding and polishing you really had to look hard for the rivet head on the outer face. You better be confident with your countersink for this job, I used a microstop and a rivet shaver after (aircraft tools). |
Well, yeah it is quite funny I only say that because Im dam good at soldering......regular wires, copper. Tried soldering some broken fins back on my heads because someone suggested to go get the mig aluminum wire lowes sells and just run that through your mig welder. Worked about as well as duct taping them back on. Soldering aluminum is a whole different ball game. even tried to use the mapp torch while practicing on some lowes aluminum. Ended up just making a mess out of it. Just might try the alumalloy stuff harbor freight sells but not sure if a regular mapp gass plumbing torch would work, as I dont have the oxy/ acetalyne setup. |
As I indicated, my 1971 deluxe sunroof had a steel and chrome emblem. I am sure I could have found a way to put pins onto it if need be and I could not find one with pins - probably drill them on a drill press with an end mill and then fit new pins. I had a good friend who was a machinist who did that small stuff for me all the time, however here is a solder that indicates it will do what you are asking about.
Aluminum
TO
Aluminum or Copper Al 802 Flux Cored Aluminum High strength,low temperature solder for joining aluminum to aluminum and aluminum to copper. Easy to use, contains a non-corrosive flux.
http://www.silfos.com/htmdocs/product_support/alloy_selection_guide.html
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SBL74
Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2013
Posts: 125
Location: Treasure Island, FL
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:21 am Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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Sorry to ask y'all to be my search engine, but I have a 73 Bay Window Bus where the PO/restorer covered over the holes for the emblems both front and back.
I would prefer not to re-drill them at this point. I recall that some vendor or person offers SS or aluminum scripts for the back that do not have the studs and already have the emblem tape on them. I cannot find this entity now.
Does anyone know?
steve |
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jtauxe
Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004
Posts: 5780
Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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Just attach the emblems with clear RTV. It holds on forever, does not require holes, and is hardly noticeable.
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John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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alman72
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014
Posts: 2573
Location: MICHIGAN
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 3:03 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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| I am on year 5 of clear silicone. |
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SBL74
Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2013
Posts: 125
Location: Treasure Island, FL
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 7:46 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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| I would use RTV or silicone but I cannot find a script that does NOT have the studs. I hate buy one and have to grind them off. |
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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16954
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 7:53 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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| SBL74 wrote: |
| I would use RTV or silicone but I cannot find a script that does NOT have the studs. I hate buy one and have to grind them off. |
If the door still has the stud holes and the script still has the studs it’s perfect. Use clear rtv on the script, slide the studs into the holes, and then use tape to hold the script in place for several hours. Perfectly aligned and will stay in place a very long time.
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Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:32 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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FWIW... this is how the 'automatic' emblem is attached to my 1973 bus. The emblem pins are held captive by rubber lugs:
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51117
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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SBL74
Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2013
Posts: 125
Location: Treasure Island, FL
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| Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:23 pm Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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No, when repainting the bus, the PO filled the holes for the emblems both in the front and the back.
I will look around for the script without the studs. I still remember a site that sold SS or aluminum ones with the tape already installed, and no studs. Should have bookmarked that!
steve |
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ChipWrecked
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2012
Posts: 89
Location: SE PA
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robinclwch
Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2021
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:28 am Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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| Hi, how do you take the script off? I can see 4 rubber pieces on the inside but I don’t want to force anything in case it breaks, thanks. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51117
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:49 am Post subject: Re: attaching "Volkswagen" script to rear hatch |
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| robinclwch wrote: |
| Hi, how do you take the script off? I can see 4 rubber pieces on the inside but I don’t want to force anything in case it breaks, thanks. |
Welcome!
Those are one way push clips, if you twist them while pulling away you can usually get them to thread off the stud, but occasionally they just turn and turn, that requires cutting them away a bit at a time with a dremel.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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