The Type 4 Engine Thread FAQ

[Wildthings]

[sdmanzor]

Hey, i know this is an old thread, but I am looking for info about turning a ´72 type 4 from 1700cc to 2000cc. Did you do the work on yours? I´m having some incompatibility issues with the new parts I got (new pistons with the original connecting rods).

[timvw7476]

I'm no expert on 1.7- 2.0L conversion, but the balance pad at the top of the
1.7 & 1800cc rod WILL be the blockage in that attempt without genuine
2.0L factory rods. (no balance pad!), + do remember the extra punch comes from the smaller crankpin, so the 1.7 66mm stroke is expanded to 71mm
with a 5mm smaller offset big end. The 1.7 crank can be offset ground to
run 2.0L bearings, now you need the actual 2.0L rods, or aftermarket set
at $350./per set of four.
EDIT: AA Pistons sells 96mm piston/cylinder kits that work with 1.7/1.8 rods,
they are listed under 1.7/1.8 96mm P&Ls.

[raygreenwood]

[MorkC68]

[raygreenwood]

[sdmanzor]

[johnfenn]

I just bought a 1974 Kombi for $2000. The catch was that the motor was in 3 large boxes. Some of that tin is hard to figure out but it is all finally back in one piece. And your diagrams were the key ingredient. Thank you so much for all the time and effort that has gone into this page..

You're a legend Mate!

[luke9511]

just wanted to say thanks for this thread! been looking at getting a bus but was wanting one with the fuel injection and this whole thread has answered a bunch of questions i had! thanks everyone!

[69BahamaYellow]

Bought myself a sand blast cabinet recently to clean up my rusty and corroded engine parts. Only problem is, they do such a good job that once you clean up one part, you just can't stop. Here's where I finally did stop:

I wanted to add this to the type 4 engine thread to share a valuable lesson I've learned over the years about metal prep and re-paint:

Use Phosphoric acid on steel parts prior to prime/paint. The purpose is to neutralize rust, but I'm pretty sure the phosphate coating it leaves behind is pretty amazing at preventing future rust. I've thoroughly cleaned and painted parts before (without the phosphoric acid treatment) and rust always seems to come back though, but here's an example of 7 year old body rust repair to show the difference. Both areas were sanded down to shiny (but pitted) metal. I used a product called PH-Ospho-ric Plus on this area, prior to body filler to cover the pitting, epoxy primer, and final finish. Years later, no issues with the paint. To use the Acid, just brush it on and wipe it off with a paper towel. The shiny metal immediately turns a dull grey and any rust pits will turn black overnight.

The same type of damage was repaired on another area, but I ran out of phosphoric acid and got impatient. This area got sanded to shiny metal, (with some pitting left), pitting was leveled with body filler, then epoxy primer, and final finish. I was pretty sure I got rid of every last spec of rust, but this still happened.

[The Dubbernaut]

Is there a thread with info on what motors mate best with what transmissions? After reading some of these more experienced builders and bus owners, it seems that tossing a type 4 onto whatever trans came in the bus doest really work out.

Like my situation for instance. Guy finally gets a bus, engine has been pulled, trans "looks" like it was OEM to the bus. I source a few engines but all three are different CC's and production years. How would I figure out (other than R&D real life experience) what engine is best paired with what trans?
_________________
2012 Tiguan 4motion
2 Corrado's
3 Beetle's
76 Bus
2 Baja's
66 Pigalle Squareback
80 Rabbit
80 Rabbit Pickup
and still collecting!

[SGKent]

[The Dubbernaut]

[Wildthings]

I ran for years with a stock 6 rip and a slightly upgraded 1800 engine. Good combo in my mind. You can of course use a 6 rip with a 2.0L as per '76 and later vehicles. I have not run a 6 rib with a 1700 but would think that it wouldn't have enough torque to be able to push a vehicle well.

On the other end of the scale, I doubt a 2.0L engine would be all that great with a 3 or 5 rib tranny if you intended to drive at 65 or above very much.

I now have a worn stock 1800 and run it in conjunction with a three rib with a longer than stock 4th, it seems to be okay, but doesn't like running at 75 as per my old setup.

Mating engines and trannies is pretty subjective, each to their own.

[The Dubbernaut]

[timvw7476]

Nice collection.
What Wildthings mentioned is a nice swift VW bus engine/ trans combo.
The earlier AW engine, with slightly bigger intake valves works well with
an 091 box, which is the one you have an image of. Ditto for dual carbs as well,
1800cc pistons (the actual size is 1795cc I believe) 93mm diameter.(work with 091)
Those final pieces are ducting for heat exchangers, through the tin to air
hoses linked to engine compartment fan, ducted forward under the chassis.
The lump second from the right is a charcoal canister.

[Tcash]

[The Dubbernaut]

[McMadden]

I'm Posting these photos to get some guidance on why there are spacers between my engine and transmission.

I'm currently restoring my first manx (clone). When separating the engine from the transmission I noticed these spacers which alarmed me because it leaves significant gaps around the engine/trans.
I'm told the engine is a 1974 Porche type 4, the registration says 1969 for the buggy. I'll post the SN for both the trans and engine in the photos below.
Does anyone know whats going on here? Is there some sort of bellhousing spacer available to do this correctly?

Thank you!

[Wildthings]

Has the input shaft been shortened? If not then they may have used the spacers to keep it for bottoming out in the gland nut.

Maybe there was a clearance problem getting the clutch and flywheel you have to work with the Bug transmission.

You can see that the starter drive teeth have only been running along about 1/2 if the length of the teeth on the ring gear.